Yes, the funnel and the hose must be filled so when you attach it to the bleed nipple to be airless then when you untighten the nipple and depress the pedal the air goes up through the fluid and when you release the pedal it sucks fluid in and so on... just be patient and dont do sudden moves, when no bubbles are coming tighten the nipple and job done but if the slave is old and it was released once from the rod the piston's seal can get hurt by the internal wear of the cylinder as it has an edge at the end of the seal's travel and it will be impossible to bleed

Thanks for the Advice, was spot on, finally got clutch bled, I think the issue was we weren't lifting the front enough, feels great now
Still having the issue with it holding the revs during gear change so help and advice about checking the signal from the switch to the ecu would be appreciated
 
the best is to see the input with tester if no chance for that you must measure on the wire going to pin 35 of ECM black plug(C0658) to be voltage with clutch released and open to earth with pedal depressed(insert a thin needle in the wire and measure on that with everything connected and ignition on)
 

Attachments

  • Black plug ECM.jpg
    Black plug ECM.jpg
    77.5 KB · Views: 93
Thanks for all your help so far but I may have found something that could suggest a different problem. If I Rev the engine quite high when stationary or coasting the revs still hold high and don't drop, would this still be the clutch switch or possibly another issue?
 
Is that on the pedal? The cars interior was a mess and has been replaced. I wonder if it could be that the connector or sensor could need cleaning out
 
that's it on the pedal, but better find somebody with a tester if you want a proper diagnose otherwise it's just a guessing game
 
Ok cheers. By tester you mean a multimeter or a diagnostic tester? I have a friend who's breaking a td5 so might be that I can test another pedal
 

Similar threads