rob1miles said:
Those taps have a record of leaking, it may well have got bypassed and one tank removed.
Click to expand...

Yes, possible, a lot could have happened in the past 52 years.
I've applied for this Heritage Certificate to see how it was build and were it went to its first owner.
For now i need to get it running and somewhat 'road-worthy' to get it approved/registered here in the Netherlands.
After that i will start with a full body off restoration.
The chassis seem to have had a few small patches. Not sure if its repairable or reusable or not but i need to get it cleaned/sandblasted first to see whats left. I prefer to keep it original instead of using a new galvanised Richards chassis.
 
Today I had some time to take out the floorpanels and seatbox to see whats underneath.
Unfortunally the previous owners(s) have used alls sorts of nuts and bolts to put it together meaning I had to use metric and imperial tools in different sizes to get it all out. Some were rusted/rotted and undersized in a way that only the grinder came in place and had carefully cutted the heads of.

IMG_5575.JPG



The chassis and bulkhead are pretty good actually.
The RH bulkhead outrigger has been patched and the LH has more rust then I like so these are going to be replaced.
The bulkhead has to much rust on the doorposts so these are going to be replaced too.

IMG_5572.JPG


Next week I'm going to take off the roof and rear part/tub so most of the chassis can be cleaned and preserved.

I'm thinking of using all new SS nuts and bolts instead of (new) standard galvanized ones. Is there a pro or con about this ?
 
Stainless are great for floors, seatbox, wings,ect.Packs available from Ebay that have new stainless clips in them. If the main rails are pretty good then repair the chassis.Replacement out riggers are available. The nearside wing is series 3,only they had the inlet for the heater in that position,the heater itself was moved to an under bonnet position on top of the footwell
 
Stainless can react with the alloy panels needs isolating from contact , galvanised bolts are less of a problem.
 
Good tip on ebay, thanks.

I've looked at suppliers like FamousFour, Paddock and LR Series for parts.
Only LR had the original bulkhead outriggers, the rest has aftermarket Britpart/Bearmach.
Is there a big difference between original and replication outriggers ?

I want to install new/other wings anyway so without the inlet for the heater it'll be.
There's a Smiths dashboard heater installed so i dont need that inlet anyway.
 
Blackburn said:
Stainless can react with the alloy panels needs isolating from contact , galvanised bolts are less of a problem.
Click to expand...

That SS/Alloy corrosion is indeed what i've always heard... so what is the best option ? Plain galvanized ?
Does anyone know of a shop who sells the complete nuts and bolt kit ?
 
I use stainless but you do need to grease them up or make sure there is paint, galv work better. That photo shows a std civvy chassis and tank arrangment.
 
Whats the best treatment for the chassis ?
I've read about using Dinitrol for the inside areas, (seems better then Mike's waxoyl) but what to use for the outside ?
I'm guessing expoxy primer and paint, any specific type/brand ?
 
Someone mentioned earlier the wheels where wrong on my Landy so i just checked it and indeed they are all wrong.
The front has standard swb/88 rims (231601) and at the rear there are two different rims, non original Land Rover.
Digging though the partslist i've found that i need either the 272309 or 568966 rims (later models) for the 109 version.
I have found a set of fv738903 rims which are the military version of the 568966 so these would do as well.
 
Found locally ? Were they by any chance it's original wheels and tires ?
Note, landy has rare Land Rover 2b door hinge mirror holders.
 
No, the Landy came over from the UK about 12 years ago and these wheels came from a local guy just 2 streets away which had them laying around for a while from his own series LR. I got them for free :) Just need a good sandblast and repaint (and new tyres obviously).
Also found a NOS LH rear side panel so i'm thinking about repanneling the tub if i can find the RH panel also somewhere.
The doors will also be taking apart and repanelled with preferably NOS skins so will keep the hinges.
 
prensel said:
No, the Landy came over from the UK about 12 years ago and these wheels came from a local guy just 2 streets away which had them laying around for a while from his own series LR. I got them for free :) Just need a good sandblast and repaint (and new tyres obviously).
Also found a NOS LH rear side panel so i'm thinking about repanneling the tub if i can find the RH panel also somewhere.
The doors will also be taking apart and repanelled with preferably NOS skins so will keep the hinges.
Click to expand...

Unless their are holes in the current skin I would not bother re-paneling any of it. It is a very large job and they doesn't look right when everything is straight and perfect. Also with the doors, it is the frames that tend to corrode not the panel skin so you can just replace/repair the frame and keep the original door skin.
 
The RH rear panel is corroded on the welds and has some small holes in it. The LH rear panel is also a bit of a mess like it had been scraped alongside a pole or something. I've looked at some videos about the door repanneling and as far as i can see the original skin is lost when taking it of so not sure how the restore the frame without loosing the skins.

In my search for parts locally I stumbled apon a near dentfree truck cab roof complete with windows etc. I like that option so i'm picking it up this friday together with some other bits and pieces.
 
Show us some pictures of the rear panels. I too would avoid replacment, its unlilkety to look better as it is so hard to get all the rivets to look the same.
 
If you anneal the folded edges of the door skins they can be unfolded to remove I believe manual gives info on how to anneal. If not rub soap on panel and heat from other side till soap starts to change colour from memory.
 
Here are both sides which show dents and corrsosion/rot and by the looks of it some bondo here and there.
I want to clean/clear the panels with paint stripper to the bear metal to see how it is before deciding to repanel.

IMG_5605.JPG
IMG_5604.JPG
 
The first picture does not look too bad, put some rivets in the drill holes to fill them in rub it down and give it a coat of paint, nothing wrong with that.
The second side would be worth cleaning up a bit to see how bad it actually is. If it is just the small hole below the two drilled holes it may be better to repair that rather than replace the whole panel.
 
Thats interesting. Get underneath and see if there is a steel angle where the hole is. The military often fitted steel angle under the tub sides. It sets up galvanic corrsosion once the paint wears through and eats holes into the rear panels. I removed mine and replced with ally angles the same size. You have to drill the rivets out and take out the bolts inside, I think there may also be some rivets inside. Its well worth doing. I made a surface patch of 3mm ally with chamfered edges and riveted it on with 1/8 csk rivets, now its painted it hardley shows. On the first pic it looks like the corrosion is pushing the panel out, you need to get underneath and open up that joint, its almost certainly the steel angle, then clean and repaint.
 
Well time is flying away, its since 2018 that I had touched the Landy :-(
It was just parked outside waiting until yesterday....
First attempt to start it since 2019 failed on the startermotor. Took it out, cleaned it and second try.
It does start now and then, sometimes just click so I reccon the solenoid is stuck or not making good contact.
Changed the glueplugs, and finally it started, a lot of smoke but it runs again :)

Taken the safari roof and side panels off, removed the upper door panels so I could drive it inside the garage.
Did a first attack on the old paint, removed most of it from the tub left side with paintstripper.
Plan for this week is to clean/remove paint from the tub as much as possible, remove the tub and start on the rear end chassis.
IMG_9169.jpg
 
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