nickrc

nickrc

Member
Hi, I have just got a P38 4.6 HSE Auto RHD. Its great apart from the sacrilege of swapping out the EAS for coils. I would like to refit with Gen 3 Arnotts, I have had a quick check and the compressor and pipes are still there, is there anyway that I can check that the compressor is working before I shell out for Gen 3's? cause I think if i need a new compressor it will be Gen 2's to keep the cost down.
Thanks in advance for any help.
 
nickrc said:
Hi, I have just got a P38 4.6 HSE Auto RHD. Its great apart from the sacrilege of swapping out the EAS for coils. I would like to refit with Gen 3 Arnotts, I have had a quick check and the compressor and pipes are still there, is there anyway that I can check that the compressor is working before I shell out for Gen 3's? cause I think if i need a new compressor it will be Gen 2's to keep the cost down.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Click to expand...
Give me a shout if you need a new compressor or valve block.I have both - glad to see you converting to the original EAS - Well done mate ;)
Kurt
 
Forget the gen 3`s not worth the extra, gen2`s are fine and as already said you may well need the money to spend on the other bits.
are all the height sensors still there and the ecu under passenger seat.
And good man for looking to put it back and with help from here you should get there.
 
You will need a decent compressor first as last. They are easy/cheap enough to fix.
- Do you still have the EAS plastic box with the pipes connected?
- Think the sensor arms are pricey but are usually zip tied up under there coz they are swine to get off
- Does it say 'EAS manual' on dash when you start up ? check under driver seat for butchered BECM wiring with two wires coming around seat.
- relay number 20 is likely missing
 
Gen 3 are expensive and a bridge to far unless you plan on using the extra lift available. This requires other modifications. Dunlops are fine for normal use. And a lot cheaper. Run the compressor as outlined in tech archive check for good pressure. Do the checks for thermal switch functionality. If little pressure refurb it. Run compressor as described for no more than five minutes to check diaphragm valve for soundness. If valve is good this should pressurise tank and also prove NRV1. All this can be done without bags fitted.
 
Last edited:
brianp38dse said:
Forget the gen 3`s not worth the extra, gen2`s are fine and as already said you may well need the money to spend on the other bits.
are all the height sensors still there and the ecu under passenger seat.
And good man for looking to put it back and with help from here you should get there.
Click to expand...

@Dopey has Gen 2 on his that are about 8 years old and when I was under it last weekend they looked brand spanking new. My Dunlops are only 5 years old or so and already they are looking tired.

I contacted Arnott a few months back to see if they'd do a group buy or let us have some Gen 3 at cost for testing, pending a write up on the forum. No response at all. Bit disappointed there. Would have been good advertising for them too.
 
Grrrrrr said:
@Dopey has Gen 2 on his that are about 8 years old and when I was under it last weekend they looked brand spanking new. My Dunlops are only 5 years old or so and already they are looking tired.

I contacted Arnott a few months back to see if they'd do a group buy or let us have some Gen 3 at cost for testing, pending a write up on the forum. No response at all. Bit disappointed there. Would have been good advertising for them too.
Click to expand...

I think my gen 2s are 10 years old now and can't say I have noticed any deterioration on them
Shame you didn't get any response as ever sales at a reduced price is better than no sales at a high price, more would buy then if they were nearer the price of the Dunlop ones, when I got mine they were not much more so thought why not they sound good and have been:)
 
Gen 3's are a waste of money for road use, stick with Gen 2's, mine are also 8 years old and still look like new.
Compressor and valve block are easy enough to over haul.
Corroded connectors can be a source of problems, it's a matter of working through the problems as they arise.
Use the money you save by not buying Gen 3's for replacing the height sensors if required.
 
Awesome feedback thanks all, Gen 2's is it. I will follow the tech write up for testing the compressor, height sensors I will have a check for. I have the checked under the drivers seat and I can see the bypass cable has been attached, however i have the max 35mph warning so maybe they never cleared the fault code? I have a diagnostic able for the EAS coming so I can run that and check what codes it has/had.
Thanks again I am sure I will have many more questions yet but this is a great start for me.
 
Maybe the connector not working or blown/wrong fuse. Either way if they have used a connector instead of cutting wires you are lucky, next time you disconnect battery remove harness and plug original connector back in. Harness probly worth £30 if it's decent.
 
nickrc said:
Awesome feedback thanks all, Gen 2's is it. I will follow the tech write up for testing the compressor, height sensors I will have a check for. I have the checked under the drivers seat and I can see the bypass cable has been attached, however i have the max 35mph warning so maybe they never cleared the fault code? I have a diagnostic able for the EAS coming so I can run that and check what codes it has/had.
Thanks again I am sure I will have many more questions yet but this is a great start for me.
Click to expand...

Usually there is a bypass kit to stop the warning.
 
RangeRoller dt said:
Maybe the connector not working or blown/wrong fuse. Either way if they have used a connector instead of cutting wires you are lucky, next time you disconnect battery remove harness and plug original connector back in. Harness probly worth £30 if it's decent.
Click to expand...
Cool I will check that tomorrow
 
Good day today, got the chance to connect up the EAS to the laptop. It read the height from all 4 sensors so I guess that means I have working height sensors? next job is to test and recon the compressor.
 
Sounds good if they are present and connected. Aslong as they are not seized and work through their required action. On coils is only one setting more or less and they may have been 'stuck' a while.
 
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