Discokids
Well-Known Member
Does such a thing exist?
Does such a thing exist?
james6546
Well-Known Member
Haha, not really. But from what I have seen lately with galv chassis defenders you either seem to get £5000 for an ok one, or £10k plus for a great looking one
discomania
Well-Known Member
It's not anthrax!
I did mine (see post called "Defender Bodywork Rebuild") on advise from the paint shop owner who had his shop across the road from my business unit. He has since become a friend, but anyway. I rubbed it down to key it all, any blemishes, corrosion or dents I wanted rid of were rubbed down further, sometimes even ground out, then filled and sanded until it was perfectly smooth. I then used Upoxy acid etch over the lot except the bonnet (the bonnet just needed a rub down and paint) I had a lot of areas where I had gone back to bare ali and also had fresh zinc on my cappings etc, it also gave an excellent primer and helped to level out any imperfections. I can highly recommend this product, comes as a 1:1 product, so a litre can comes with a litre of hardner and it doesn't contain isocyanide.
This was then covered with Upol Brilliant White 2K - 5 litre can plus 2.5 litres of hardner was £80 - yeah a 2K product and potentially deadly but I took precautions - proper mask, gloved up, overalls etc. I would do it in my business unit in the evening or on weekends. As soon as I was done I opened the roller shutter and the wind soon moved all the fumes away. Someone who happened to be standing downwind would get whiff of it but they are not going to fall over and die. You can always turn the air right down on your gun so you are not creating clouds of paint fallout. The fumes from the actual paint on the vehicle will stink out the area and are harmful but this will not carry at a dangerous level outwith the area you paint.
james6546
Well-Known Member
Ok, I'm getting slightly more interested in the self spray idea. How much would the outlay be assuming I have nothing and could possibly borrow the compressor from the farm if I had to?
Then I guess I would have to take the sunroof out and everything else off? I'll get new end caps I think.
What are peoples opinions on the snorkel? If I eventually decide to sell it will it sell easier without it? If so I'll fill the holes and get rid
Then I guess I would have to take the sunroof out and everything else off? I'll get new end caps I think.
What are peoples opinions on the snorkel? If I eventually decide to sell it will it sell easier without it? If so I'll fill the holes and get rid
julianf
Well-Known Member
compressor - 150
gun 40-100
mask 15 - 100
filters 20 - 200
filters -
for non 2k, youll need a water trap, but, for 2k, depending on how keen you are on life, you would want a coalescing filter etc, which are about £150+vat
air fed masks are probably about 50-100 ish (come with belt filter / regulator)
regardless of the 'alive-ness' of people here who have used 2k without air-fed, id suggest you read some about it, and properly consider it, before doing that yourself - i am aware not everyone dies from it, but im also aware that it can cause proper damage, and, for me, somewhat unusually, the risk is more than i want to encounter.
gun 40-100
mask 15 - 100
filters 20 - 200
filters -
for non 2k, youll need a water trap, but, for 2k, depending on how keen you are on life, you would want a coalescing filter etc, which are about £150+vat
air fed masks are probably about 50-100 ish (come with belt filter / regulator)
regardless of the 'alive-ness' of people here who have used 2k without air-fed, id suggest you read some about it, and properly consider it, before doing that yourself - i am aware not everyone dies from it, but im also aware that it can cause proper damage, and, for me, somewhat unusually, the risk is more than i want to encounter.
james6546
Well-Known Member
I probably wouldn't risk it to be honest. I'm reasonably fond of being alive...
So I'm looking at a fair outlay for some stuff that I'm probably not going to use again. Would be a good skill to learn though
discomania
Well-Known Member
Good information from Julian.
However, to be honest, you don't need to spend big money on an expensive gun - I bought a gravity fed gun from my paint supplier (paint shop friend has some and says they are really very good) for about £30. You can spend big bucks on a gun but I don't see the point unless you are going to take up painting. Make sure you pay attention to the nozzle size, I think I have a 1.2 - ask your supplier for advice. Anyway, with this gun and spending weeks on the prep, I did a paint job that I was very impressed with, and many people including my painter friend say it looks great. I think I can find 3 blemishes on the paint that most people struggle to find - they still annoy me.
Here is a bit of good news. Now I was happy with the smooth glossy sheen I was left with; I did the final coat with lots of thinners in a fine spray to get a really glassy finish - be careful though, it will run very easily if you rush it and don't let the previous coat flash off long enough - I also used fast thinners, but had I been annoyed with anything I would have had 2 choices. If you have a panel that is just rough, badly done, runs, orange peel, then let it dry, hit it with the DA with about a 240 grit and just paint it again. If however it is one little blemish on an otherwise prefect panel, then think about rubbing compound then polish, if really bad start with a 1200 grit then 2400. Get the proper Faraclea rubbing compound and polish or similar quality. If you work on day old 2K paint with the right compound and buffer you can remove a whole host of issues very easily.
Since then I have painted metalics, 2K diamond lacquers etc. with excellent results. I am the sort of person who if I didn't like the finish I would just sand it down and start again, I will not accept a finish that can be spotted as a respray or doesn't match well. So as someone who just asked the supplier a lot of questions, listened to painters and took advice I would say learning to paint is very doable. I would also say that it is not cheap to do it correctly, I wanted to spray the front bumper of my car (stone chipped) and my 4 alloys. It cost me nearly £200 in thinners, hardners, plastic primer, primer, top coat, masking paper and tape, sanding discs... That was just to do 1 bumper! That didn't include filler I already had. I can see why a paint shop will take £150 for a panel and I think it is actually a fair price.
However, to be honest, you don't need to spend big money on an expensive gun - I bought a gravity fed gun from my paint supplier (paint shop friend has some and says they are really very good) for about £30. You can spend big bucks on a gun but I don't see the point unless you are going to take up painting. Make sure you pay attention to the nozzle size, I think I have a 1.2 - ask your supplier for advice. Anyway, with this gun and spending weeks on the prep, I did a paint job that I was very impressed with, and many people including my painter friend say it looks great. I think I can find 3 blemishes on the paint that most people struggle to find - they still annoy me.
Here is a bit of good news. Now I was happy with the smooth glossy sheen I was left with; I did the final coat with lots of thinners in a fine spray to get a really glassy finish - be careful though, it will run very easily if you rush it and don't let the previous coat flash off long enough - I also used fast thinners, but had I been annoyed with anything I would have had 2 choices. If you have a panel that is just rough, badly done, runs, orange peel, then let it dry, hit it with the DA with about a 240 grit and just paint it again. If however it is one little blemish on an otherwise prefect panel, then think about rubbing compound then polish, if really bad start with a 1200 grit then 2400. Get the proper Faraclea rubbing compound and polish or similar quality. If you work on day old 2K paint with the right compound and buffer you can remove a whole host of issues very easily.
Since then I have painted metalics, 2K diamond lacquers etc. with excellent results. I am the sort of person who if I didn't like the finish I would just sand it down and start again, I will not accept a finish that can be spotted as a respray or doesn't match well. So as someone who just asked the supplier a lot of questions, listened to painters and took advice I would say learning to paint is very doable. I would also say that it is not cheap to do it correctly, I wanted to spray the front bumper of my car (stone chipped) and my 4 alloys. It cost me nearly £200 in thinners, hardners, plastic primer, primer, top coat, masking paper and tape, sanding discs... That was just to do 1 bumper! That didn't include filler I already had. I can see why a paint shop will take £150 for a panel and I think it is actually a fair price.
Discokids
Well-Known Member
Sell the compressor when you're done, sell the mask, filters and regulaor, don't go and spend £££'s on sata or devilbiss spray guns when a £40 Clarke from machine mart is more than up to the job. Re: snorkel - your vehicle won't be worth £50 more with it fitted so just sell it seperatley.
Finally, I've read a lot of your posts - including your entire rebuild thread, your 'For Sale' post and your drama of breaking down in Europe - in the past, and think that you really deep down love this 90 or you would have got rid by now. So enjoy it man!
Finally, I've read a lot of your posts - including your entire rebuild thread, your 'For Sale' post and your drama of breaking down in Europe - in the past, and think that you really deep down love this 90 or you would have got rid by now. So enjoy it man!
james6546
Well-Known Member
Haha, I have a love hate relationship with it. I like working on it, and am pleased with the way it turned out, but I don't use it at all and every time I go to use it something else needs doing. I like the snorkel, I'm just wondering if it is worth more without it as when I tried to sell it I got no interest full stop.
I like the idea of having all of the kit to paint things. It will be a steep learning curve though!
discomania
Well-Known Member
Yes - it is great to have all the kit. I actually paint a lot of stuff now. I also now have stock of 1k base, cellulose, 2K, 2K lacquer, acrylic, primers, Galvaflex (Shipping container paint) in various colours which is great to have and makes it all very cost effective. Going to get stuff for one small paint job is the killer. Once you build it up and have stock it is fine and cost effective to paint small items like brackets or garden furniture. I even spray stuff for the house, skirtings and stuff with satinwood.
Oldseadog
Well-Known Member
A blow lamp, a rubber hammer and a wooden dolly, but make sure that someone else is inside whilst you are beating the crap out of it!
It's actially better if you bash them rather than tap them, as the ally work hardens.
ogb
Active Member
A lot of consideration of 2k here, but what's wrong with good old-fashioned cellulose? Easy to use, won't poison you or the neighbours and cheap. Just finished my 110 using an Aldi compressor, Colourweld gun and paint. £200 for everything and at the end of the job I've got an air source for other tools and a pretty good finish. OK, it took a lot of prep and some flatting and polish afterwards, but I've still got £1800 in my pocket.....
discomania
Well-Known Member
I like Celly and it is OK - I used it at the weekend to paint some lighting parts, works admirably, but it just comes no where close to 2k in terms of toughness, it can also shrink and crack as never fully cures hard and if you ever need to go over it in the future you must use Celly again or rub it all off and start again unless it's left for years and years. Having said that, it was all that was used for long enough and we all managed. I do like the easy of Celly, I mix some up with thinner, chuck it in the gun then just tip the left overs back into the pot, no waste - cannot do that with 2K.
