charlesf

New Member
I'm pretty sure my ignition switch is faulty, flashing dashboard lights and not starting.

How do I remove the plastic cowling around the steering column to get to the switch, it seems to use some strange screwdriver/socket:confused:
 
2 screws underneath if I remember correctly. Then it splits apart top and bottom, and comes off.
 
Two screw as hippos says just behind the steering wheel. The third hole further forward is not a screw but just a trim popper. Spent 5 minutes trying to work out why I couldn't ket a screwdriver to fit:confused:

The top half just clips to the bottom but you would need to lower the wheel to its lowest position.
 
Thanks Hippo and ML, I have been caught out by the popper and didn't look any further, I will try again this evening
 
Hey sort of on the same topic, i broke my key in the ignition of my 02 freelander the other day and i am looking to replace the switch. The vehicle has an immobilizer and im wondering what all is required to order from a salvage 2002 Freelander if i plan on using its keys and its door lock cylinders? Is there some sort of sensor within the switch or is it somewhere else in the steering column? Thanks
 
Hey sort of on the same topic, i broke my key in the ignition of my 02 freelander the other day and i am looking to replace the switch. The vehicle has an immobilizer and im wondering what all is required to order from a salvage 2002 Freelander if i plan on using its keys and its door lock cylinders? Is there some sort of sensor within the switch or is it somewhere else in the steering column? Thanks

That would be the whole barrel you needed to change, a little more tricky , as far as i know the immobilizer is on the fob and communicates with the computer behind the fuse box so would be fine, however you would need to change door locks ect too

regards
 
When you get access to the lock assembly you will around the barrel a separate plastic ring with a socket on the back. This is the pickup coil for the immobiliser that energises the transponder in the key head and is nothing to do with the fob.

The fob is primarily to arm the alarm system although this then also locks the immobiliser system as well. The fob receiver is actually on top of the instrument cluster just under the cowl.

If you are doing this work because of intermmitent starting etc then the switch part is separate and you don't need to change the lock.

If however the reason is to do with the lock itself then you have more of a problem. The original lock is fitted with two shear head bolts that when fitted have no driving faces. The only way to remove them is to drill off the heads, remove the lock body and remove the remaining bolts. You would also need two new shear bolts
 
When you get access to the lock assembly you will around the barrel a separate plastic ring with a socket on the back. This is the pickup coil for the immobiliser that energises the transponder in the key head and is nothing to do with the fob.

The fob is primarily to arm the alarm system although this then also locks the immobiliser system as well. The fob receiver is actually on top of the instrument cluster just under the cowl.

If you are doing this work because of intermmitent starting etc then the switch part is separate and you don't need to change the lock.

If however the reason is to do with the lock itself then you have more of a problem. The original lock is fitted with two shear head bolts that when fitted have no driving faces. The only way to remove them is to drill off the heads, remove the lock body and remove the remaining bolts. You would also need two new shear bolts

Thanks for the correction,
I have never myself changed to lock itself, i just remember a while ago changing the ECU and in doing so i had to change the computer also behind the fuse box so then i could use the fob from the the car i took the ecu out of,

Regards
 
I'm pretty sure my ignition switch is faulty, flashing dashboard lights and not starting.

How do I remove the plastic cowling around the steering column to get to the switch, it seems to use some strange screwdriver/socket:confused:

Same fault on my freelander, changed ignition switch but no better. Starter motor disconnected, but fault still there. Any ideas?
 

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