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Landyfella

Active Member

• Sep 2, 2020

• #1

Hi all, I am new to the Land Rover, but have restored 5 previous cars so have general experience. I am replacing the rear end and would just like to check to see if there are any gotcha’s or advice about doing it.

Obviously I am putting the car on stands and releasing the leaf springs. The tub is off but when I cut of the rear end will put tub back on so it all lines up correctly then tacking it.

The crossmember is from bearmach and sleeves part of the old chassis. Cut off is just in front of the first rear tub mount seat.
I know about the wiring harness running through in the drivers side
Thanks
Chris

 

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Landyfella

Active Member

• Sep 2, 2020

• #2

Ok apologies there are tonnes of posts on this subject DOH!

 

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rob1miles

Well-Known Member

• Sep 3, 2020

• #3

No problem. There's a lot to be said for re-routing the harness too make it easier to inspect and add wires. And really really get the alighment right, don't rely on the tub. I've met someone whose rear chassis was welded on out of line, very hard to fix.

 

freelance

Well-Known Member

• Sep 3, 2020

• #4

Best to make a jig to line up holes across chassis before cutting

 

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Landyfella

Active Member

• Sep 3, 2020

• #5

Okay thx

 

Bobsticle

De Villes Advocaat

• Sep 3, 2020

• #6

I did it by leaving the tub in situ until it was tacked in. Couldn’t trust myself to get it back on in the right place.

 

scottonthefen

Well-Known Member

• Sep 11, 2020

• #7

My Dad likes to regale me with the tale of when he did his rear quarter over a weekend between work and left the tub in place. They took the tub floor up for access. I'd probably have the tub off myself as I'm not as experienced and would prefer to make a jig and have all the access I wanted.
@rob1miles My harness is still in there and it was a worry when I did the outriggers that side and it's more of a worry for the welding I've got to do above the rear bump stops.. where's a good place to re-route it to?

 

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rob1miles

Well-Known Member

• Sep 11, 2020

• #8

I got a lenght of multi-core cable - 9 I think but you may find trailer cable with 7 is enough. I wanted a couple of extras. I cut the loom out where it goes into the chassis near the bulkhead and where it comes out near the rear wheel and put in connection blocks - one behind the dash and one by the rear lights then swaped it over. Cable runs along the top of the chassis. Came in really handy when I added a tow socket as all the wires were in one place.

 

Extreedoc

Well-Known Member

• Sep 11, 2020

• #9

I used ordinary garden hose as trunking and fed through it, the correct coloured wires which I got from Autosparks. The hose, I fed over the transverse floor supports where they jump over (under) the longitudinal floor supports, it is out of the way and looks neat, you can push it though a grommeted hole into the tool boxes and hook up the wires to the lights.
You can see the gap where the cross bars meet the length-wise bars, perfect place; this pic taken before the wiring was installed.

 

Last edited: Sep 11, 2020

Bobsticle

De Villes Advocaat

• Sep 11, 2020

• #10

Extreedoc said:

I used ordinary garden hose as trunking and fed through it, the correct coloured wires which I got from Autosparks. The hose, I fed over the transverse floor supports where they jump over the longitudinal floor supports, it is out of the way and looks neat, you can push it though a grommeted hole into the tool boxes and hook up the wires to the lights.
You can see the gap where the cross bars meet the length-wise bars, perfect place; this pic taken before the wiring was installed.
View attachment 219000

Click to expand...

Mines posher than that. It has a fitted brown carpet to hide all the mecul.