On topic, there's no chance I'm spending £30 per arp stud when i can buy a set of standard bolts for £10
You're look at the wrong supplier. Try http://www.realsteel.co.uk/section1.pdf P38 needs 20 bolt kit.

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£8/stud is still a lot but much better! I've read mixed reviews though with some people saying they wish they had stuck with normal stretch bolts

I seem to recall when we did MrGorsky's that most bolts needed a breaker bar to undo but a few were surprisingly easy to undo. However, the heads were as straight as an engineer's rule.
 
I seem to recall when we did MrGorsky's that most bolts needed a breaker bar to undo but a few were surprisingly easy to undo. However, the heads were as straight as an engineer's rule.
Be interesting to see what i find when i get this leaky head off
 
When the heads are off, check the threads in the block for looseness or wobble in the bolts. In my case the previous owner (or his garage) had clearly tried to fix a warped head & gasket issue by overtightening. 40% of them needed helicoils so I got them all done.

ARP studs are simply easier because you tighten the stud in the block using an allen key, and then apply the ARP greas to the stud threads & washers before doing the torque. They also only require 60-80 ft-lbs so easier to get it right.
 
When the heads are off, check the threads in the block for looseness or wobble in the bolts. In my case the previous owner (or his garage) had clearly tried to fix a warped head & gasket issue by overtightening. 40% of them needed helicoils so I got them all done.

ARP studs are simply easier because you tighten the stud in the block using an allen key, and then apply the ARP greas to the stud threads & washers before doing the torque. They also only require 60-80 ft-lbs so easier to get it right.
My original concern was that with the lower torque, studs were less likely to cause a cracked block, as cracks are most often close to the bolts.
No longer sure this is a valid concern
 

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