while we are on the subject of brakes,is there another way of bleeding the brakes,other than the long winded method in the rave,asi,ll be doing this on my own.
 
i just changed the pipes and bled em in normal way, i left the cap on the filler tho, then took it off to bleed!

cant remember if i put mole grips on aswell of if that was for pad change!
 
champion i,ll use my pressure bleeder,can,t believe how many bleed nipples there are on a braking system,wish the wife had as many to play with:D
 
I would stick to the Rave procedure and use a pressure bleed kit, it's a one man job, easy peasy, wouldn't do any harm to flush all the old fluid out whilst you are at it. They charge around £12 for 5 lts of Ferodo DOT 4 over here at the motor factors which aint bad.:beer2:
 
well it,s been a busy day,changed the front to rear brake lines along with the two little rear pipes,only took a couple of hours,managed to break some clips that fasten the wheel arch liners in,so i,ll have to go and find some,before they drop out.the downside,i thought id clean the oil thats leaked onto the lower bellhousing (rear crankseal) and i found a drop of transmission fluid on the x/y switch,i can,t see where it,s come from,probably find it when i take the box out:(
 
I have just taken it easy today, ready for another go tomorrow. How was it running the two feeds from the front to the rear hoses above the rear diff? especially where they go behind the "Crossmember" located by the rear springs-did you follow the same route, if so, did you manage to get access to them?-I only had a quick look the other day. Is the connector behind the r.h. wheel arch cover? Have ordered the set of air springs so will get those later this week hopefully.
Will keep everyone posted as to progress.:tea:
 
hi john,i had to remove both rear wheel arch liners and the front drivers one,there are 2 connectors behind the front arch where i just cut the pipe with wire cutters and nipped the ends so not to have brake fluid everywhere,one pipe runs from the front above the air tank and then up to a small flexi hose,then theres a small brake pipe runs from the small flexi hose to another one,so that was the drivers side done,the other pipe runs from the front above the air tank up around where the drivers side was connected it then bends and runs along the top to the passenger side where the top of the rear air springs are fastened in,and bends onto a flexi hose connector,then the same again another little brake line from flexi hose to flexi hose.

in short john do like i did after removing the arches,and snip the front lines at the connectors,i worked from the rear to the front,i did all the drivers side first,but i didn,t connect the front till all the pipes were in,as for the passenger side one,you can get your hands on most of it from underneath, above the exaust.if you use a torch and look through the gap where pins and air line to the rear springs are you will see where the pipe runs.i managed to run it the full length starting from the passenger side across to the drivers and then down the front.

i had to cut the old one out in some places,in fear of catching the air line,so once i ran the pipes to the front i then cut them and put the fitting on,as there is plenty of room,if you put your steering on full lock to the right
 
Thanks for that Andy-much appreciated.......I didn't remove the rear liners the other day so that obscured my view. I have the air tank drained ready to remove to give me more access with the long runs. The front r.h. is jacked up ready for wheel arch removal this morning. On a different note, do you think it will pay me to remove the air springs whilst the arch covers are off as I shall be changing them this week-providing they arrive. In any event, I won't be using the car for a bit as I want to just get stuck into all the jobs that I have been putting off. Bit like Gavbriggs really-and the petrol bill will be reduced!!!:praise:
 
you could leave the rear arch liners out for the springs,but to be honset theres not that much room to access the top retaining pins,ideally you need a long hooked tool to pull the pins out,and a long pair of thin nosed pliers to fit the new pins in (did you order new retaing pins) as the old ones on mine came out in little pieces.
 
i forgot to mention,on the little rear brake pipes,it,s a bit restricted to get a spanner in more so the rear drivers,as the pipes from the fuel filler to the tank get in the way,i undid the bottom brake nut then just snapped the pipe of close to the top brake nut and used a socket with extension bar to remove the nut.it,s then a case of patients when refitting the new pipe,or get an old 11mm spanner and bend the head 45 deg
 
Was wondering about taking the rear arches off primarilly for access to the rear brake pipes, more so on the r.h. side than the air springs. Yes, I have ordered a complete set of clips for the air springs. The short pipes from the flex. hoses to the rear calipers are on. You mentioned that one pipe from the rear hose to the front runs under the exhaust-am I reading this correctly Andy as both of mine run side by side above the "Crossmember" and then take a 90deg. bend to travel straight along the drivers side of the body, above the air tank and disappear behind the front r.h. wheel arch.
I am going out to the gagage in a couple of minutes to catch up on where I left off. I will take the laptop out in case I need to mail/contact you.....Thanks again!!:)
 
ive probably worded it wrong john,the one that runs from the rear passenger side across to the drivers side i accessed it from underneath as it runs above the exhaust where one backbox joins into the other backbox,when you look through the rear wheel arch where the top of the rear spring is you will see what i mean,a man of your talent will sharp figure it out.

got to be honest if i had to fit a dealer made pipe it would be bloody hard,at least with copper you can lay and bend it to where you want it
 
Hi Andy...can see the connectors-cheers. Also removed front spring. Looked on the EPC and the platic liner clips are listed as "Fastener Expanding" Part no. ANR 2224 approx. 56p each-as per Rimmer Bros 2009 price list (Incl. VAT).
Best of luck this afternoon:clap2:
 
Getting there slowly..Read somewhere thar the air springs can be changed in an hour-does that allow for wire clips that are seized solid in the end caps????? Front r.h was a right pain and the rear rh is enough to drive you drink, the top one broke off and I managed to drift it out with a pin punch, the bottom one is solid and I have tried punching it out from the rear, no luck so it's off with the shocker and try to cut it and punch out from the front side-not enough room to swing a cat!!
Going for a shower and a bite to eat-another day tomorrow-no rush.......:frusty:
 
Update.....
Spent a couple of hours on it today and have run one pipe. The old one was a bit of a bitch to get round the crossmember but managed to get it out. The new one, being copper was not too bad to feed through. Thought I would do them one at a time so that I could see the run of the pipes etc. I have the length plus about 12" for final cutting so the second one hopefully should be easier.
I used a coloured cable tie to identify the pipe to the hose etc.
Many thanks to all members for their advice-especially Andy. The pints are on me next time you are over here!!
Will let you know what the outcome is when it's all finished-air springs next, followed by Transfer Box out for stripdown and reseal.
 
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