B

Benji55

Active Member
Hi all.
Anyone know the part number or where to buy the brake pipe running along the chassis front to rear? The rear and front pipes are easily and reasonably priced on eBay but can’t find that longer one running from the front to the rear axle. Alternatively how difficult are they to make up from a kit?
Thanks
 
You can purchase a basic DIY brake pipe flare tool kit for about £20/30 with some ends. How to on You tube.
 
When I replaced my chassis a couple of years ago I just bought an Automec kit, couldn't be bothered in making them up and the kit was a direct fit.
 
tottot said:
You can purchase a basic DIY brake pipe flare tool kit for about £20/30 with some ends. How to on You tube.
Click to expand...
Thanks. Was it easy to make up? I have the old pipe to use as a template but worry it might start to leak when the body is back on and engine fitted.
 
Litch said:
When I replaced my chassis a couple of years ago I just bought an Automec kit, couldn't be bothered in making them up and the kit was a direct fit.
Click to expand...
Thanks I will take a look. As I mentioned I found the shorter ones on eBay but couldn’t find the long pipe leading from the front along the chassis and want to fit a new one before fitting the body back.
 
Benji55 said:
Thanks. Was it easy to make up? I have the old pipe to use as a template but worry it might start to leak when the body is back on and engine fitted.
Click to expand...
Pretty straight forward to make up a pipe with the copper alloy tube as it bends quite easy. Two types of flare need to be made [ dome and dish] video's on the tube show how. A bit of practice on some short bits to gain confidence. Do not try on old steel pipes as is to hard.
 
It's not hard to do.. once you've put it on, do it up nice n snug.. undo, then tighten up again.. stand on the brake and if there's no leak, it won't leak.
Just make sure the flared end is nice and uniform, no splits or burrs
 
Use Kunifer (copper and cupronickel nickel) not the cheap copper, see my build thread for how to make up pipes, did a full brake line and system replacement on a td5 90
 
KISSMYAURA said:
Use Kunifer (copper and cupronickel nickel) not the cheap copper, see my build thread for how to make up pipes, did a full brake line and system replacement on a td5 90
Click to expand...
Agreed on Kunifer. The copper crap we get now welds itself onto the fittings. Then when you need to loosen them, the pipe just corkscrews.
 
I also use Ceratec for fitting threads, just a very light smear, else when you come to remove the fitting will twist and shear the pipe.
The fittings have such a thin zinc coating etc.
The tool and die i bought has already paid for itself when you consider the cost of the pre made steel pipes.
Write up here:
page-6
 
KISSMYAURA said:
The fittings have such a thin zinc coating etc.
Click to expand...
This is why I used brass fittings. The ones I took off twisted the pipe when I unscrewed them - you can't exactly put a pair of grips on the pipe to stop it twisting. Unfortunately the brass fittings are a lot more expensive than the zinc plated ones. I still smear the fittings in Lanoguard grease after fitting.
 
Thanks everyone. I ordered the full kit with kunifer tube. Also order a pipe bending tool. My refurbished steering box, new drop arm and new rear A-frame ball joint has arrived so I have plenty to do this weekend.
 
I have a pipe bending tool but to be honest I never really used it. I found the radius was a bit big and actually used an old runner off a sliding door.

May be worth having a search for how to make brake pipes as I am sure people recommend a particular socket size as the smallest to use to form the pipes around.
 
Also remember to get a jar and some clear pipe for bleeding. I also had a syringe that I used to remove the brake fluid from the reservoir so I could replace it with new - that's if you are changing the fluid!

And don't forget the flare nut spanners.

And brake pipe clips.......

And check your bleed nipples.......
 
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