Ares

New Member
So I just replaced the gearbox in my Disco 300tdi.

Everything seemed just find initially and now I've taken her for a long run 5th to 4th is blocking, only allowing a change to 4th if I nudge 3rd first.

Is there a fix of some sort other than ANOTHER new box or rebuild?

Really don't wan't to do yet another gearbox change, let alone affording it.
 
So I just replaced the gearbox in my Disco 300tdi.

Everything seemed just find initially and now I've taken her for a long run 5th to 4th is blocking, only allowing a change to 4th if I nudge 3rd first.

Is there a fix of some sort other than ANOTHER new box or rebuild?

Really don't wan't to do yet another gearbox change, let alone affording it.

Is it the same no matter if the engine is on or off?

can you here a single clicking sound as the block comes off?
 
Make sure the grub screw is not loose on the shift lever to the transmission

I don't remember any grub screw. Where should I be looking?

It changed fine with the engine off and I've not noticed any click but not listened yet either. What do you mean by when the block comes off too? Sorry.
 
when you pull stick out of 5th there is a sprung plate in top of box that stops you pulling stick straight through neutral into reverse ,stick has to go over toward 4th before plate moves ,you can hear it click
 
When you say run in, it's not a new/recon box just a used replacement so it wouldn't need running in, would it?

Stick bias, as in the springs? Still learning sorry.

Edit: ah ok, ill have a lidten now.
 
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oh you will need another then unless adjusting bias helps ,springs ether side of lower stick should hold it directly in line for 3rd 4th gear it can be adusted
 
when you pull stick out of 5th there is a sprung plate in top of box that stops you pulling stick straight through neutral into reverse ,stick has to go over toward 4th before plate moves ,you can hear it click

Nicely explained:)
 
Can hear the click.
I think it's the baulk ring as you said. That really sucks! This was the second time the box has been out and back in in about 3 weeks.

I suppose its not an easy job to replace the baulk ring?
 
it means stripping box ,it is easy if yove done a few and have the right tools ,but not so without

Seeing as I still have the original box I might have a go at stripping that down as a practice.

What out of the ordinary tools will I likely need to find?
 
puller for rear seal collar ,5 and 6mm hex key socket, 3/8 drive 10mm bihex and single hex socket ,32mm hex socket and 1/2 drive air or battery gun ,external circlip pliers ,brass or copper punch ,press or pullers if you change bearings
 
puller for rear seal collar ,5 and 6mm hex key socket, 3/8 drive 10mm bihex and single hex socket ,32mm hex socket and 1/2 drive air or battery gun ,external circlip pliers ,brass or copper punch ,press or pullers if you change bearings

I think, between a couple of mates, I can get my hands on most of those tools... not sure about the air/battery gun but will see.

this will be the third time at it so I'm going for a record time getting the box out and back in and wish me luck with stripping down the box!
Thanks for the advice!
 
ftc5018 is 4th gear baulk ring but can be synchro spring or play between input shaft and mainshaft caused by bearing wear
 
Oh god! How will I know which the problem is with?

Can this be done without the air/battery gun? I assume it just makes it easier.
 
layshaft nut is tight and you can hold 5th gear by hand whilst you undo it with a gun ,lcheck end float on input shaft before you pull it apart (shaft will move up and down etc but shouldnt go in /out,with box on its end and input shaft sat on mainshaft you should be able to push selector hub up/down from 4th to 3rd and back
 
Not got to it just yet, but I noticed today if I double declutch I can change straight to down to 4th without bumping 3rd.
I assume this makes no difference to the diagnosis? Just checking on the off.
 
I'm running it with ATF at the mo, don't suppose MTF94 would make any difference to this in the short term?
 

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