I think the same as Bobsticle, the steering end stops. I know you say they are ok but it's worth double checking. When I did a lot of work to my steering all was well (for a 40 year old landy). After a few months I noticed the right hand lock felt a bit different, it turned out the the end stop had broken off.

Col
 
A quick update that might help others. So no one would check the wheel alignment the FWH seemed to be the deal breaker! So with thanks from the input of other forum members in this thread I finally got get out side to try the string method. Firstly use builders/bricklayers twine as it doesn't stretch, also the bright orange colour helped with visibility. Tied the ends on the rear springs and then forward to the front, attaching to a heavy axels stand. Then looked in horror at the 2/3cm Tow OUT on each side, this accounted for the bad handling. So loosen the clamps and rotate in, it takes surprisingly small amounts of turning to produce a big difference to the Tow In, so when making those adjustments be aware. Also you will have to check the line against the Front wheel on both sides and make small adjustments to allow for the changes. Basically I was pleased to get a 2mm accuracy in about 10mins after set up. It is so simple and so effective and probably give as good a result as the garage could get. Ok it's not laser technology, and there will slight bulges in the tyre that may off set things slightly, but if you are stuck like I was it is a pretty good fix. Total cost was £4 for the string.
The strange play at the end of the steering lock does however still remain a mystery. I have just rebuilt a steering box in anticipation of trouble (and Covid boredom) but so far so good.
Indecently the only top Colum bearing I could get came in a blue box and did NOT want to fit, some time with very fine emery paper to smooth the Colum down a fraction and placing the bearing in the freezer for 6 hours resulted in success with an easy assembly. Just as a cautionary note the box I rebuilt showed signs of these small ball bearings dropping out and getting caught into the top box bearings. I made a felt washer with a lot of grease to sit in the Colum which would at least catch them if they ever escaped (Blue box product say no more). Will update if I find the cause of the strange play.
Thanks aging for everyone's input on this thread there were was good suggestions and advice.
 
Well done for the DIY fix. Oddly, when I did the work on the steering of my 109, I took it to my local tyre fitters and they did the tracking on their laser machine. Mine has free wheeling hubs fitted and they never said there would be a problem. Mine was out by quite a bit and much better after they tracked it, the cost was £18 about 5 years ago.

Col
 
bultacobob said:
A quick update that might help others. So no one would check the wheel alignment the FWH seemed to be the deal breaker! So with thanks from the input of other forum members in this thread I finally got get out side to try the string method. Firstly use builders/bricklayers twine as it doesn't stretch, also the bright orange colour helped with visibility. Tied the ends on the rear springs and then forward to the front, attaching to a heavy axels stand. Then looked in horror at the 2/3cm Tow OUT on each side, this accounted for the bad handling. So loosen the clamps and rotate in, it takes surprisingly small amounts of turning to produce a big difference to the Tow In, so when making those adjustments be aware. Also you will have to check the line against the Front wheel on both sides and make small adjustments to allow for the changes. Basically I was pleased to get a 2mm accuracy in about 10mins after set up. It is so simple and so effective and probably give as good a result as the garage could get. Ok it's not laser technology, and there will slight bulges in the tyre that may off set things slightly, but if you are stuck like I was it is a pretty good fix. Total cost was £4 for the string.
The strange play at the end of the steering lock does however still remain a mystery. I have just rebuilt a steering box in anticipation of trouble (and Covid boredom) but so far so good.
Indecently the only top Colum bearing I could get came in a blue box and did NOT want to fit, some time with very fine emery paper to smooth the Colum down a fraction and placing the bearing in the freezer for 6 hours resulted in success with an easy assembly. Just as a cautionary note the box I rebuilt showed signs of these small ball bearings dropping out and getting caught into the top box bearings. I made a felt washer with a lot of grease to sit in the Colum which would at least catch them if they ever escaped (Blue box product say no more). Will update if I find the cause of the strange play.
Thanks aging for everyone's input on this thread there were was good suggestions and advice.
Click to expand...


The steering on a Series isn't supposed to be that tight. It has quite a few turns on the wheel lock to lock, and I would set it up with an inch or two of play each way on the steering wheel before the wheels begin to move.
I have always done it like that, it makes the steering a bit easier to wrestle when you are off road, and prevents excess wear on the steering box itself.
 
Last edited:
bultacobob said:
A quick update that might help others. So no one would check the wheel alignment the FWH seemed to be the deal breaker! So with thanks from the input of other forum members in this thread I finally got get out side to try the string method. Firstly use builders/bricklayers twine as it doesn't stretch, also the bright orange colour helped with visibility. Tied the ends on the rear springs and then forward to the front, attaching to a heavy axels stand. Then looked in horror at the 2/3cm Tow OUT on each side, this accounted for the bad handling. So loosen the clamps and rotate in, it takes surprisingly small amounts of turning to produce a big difference to the Tow In, so when making those adjustments be aware. Also you will have to check the line against the Front wheel on both sides and make small adjustments to allow for the changes. Basically I was pleased to get a 2mm accuracy in about 10mins after set up. It is so simple and so effective and probably give as good a result as the garage could get. Ok it's not laser technology, and there will slight bulges in the tyre that may off set things slightly, but if you are stuck like I was it is a pretty good fix. Total cost was £4 for the string.
The strange play at the end of the steering lock does however still remain a mystery. I have just rebuilt a steering box in anticipation of trouble (and Covid boredom) but so far so good.
Indecently the only top Colum bearing I could get came in a blue box and did NOT want to fit, some time with very fine emery paper to smooth the Colum down a fraction and placing the bearing in the freezer for 6 hours resulted in success with an easy assembly. Just as a cautionary note the box I rebuilt showed signs of these small ball bearings dropping out and getting caught into the top box bearings. I made a felt washer with a lot of grease to sit in the Colum which would at least catch them if they ever escaped (Blue box product say no more). Will update if I find the cause of the strange play.
Thanks aging for everyone's input on this thread there were was good suggestions and advice.
Click to expand...
I used fishing line for mine. Couldn’t see a bleedin thing :D
Managed it though. :)
 
Thanks, I could not find anything loose that would cause it and the box itself has minimal play and is pretty smooth. I was not looking forward to refitting the new one as I cant even get the steering wheel off. None of my pullers would reach round and the 2 holes have no thread. I am working on making something that will bolt through and pull. I did however get the opportunity to put some grease on the top column bearing so all was not lost.
 
Yes I too have learnt that lesson the hard way. Still trying, but have ordered a universal puller that should do the job. Laziness took over and I just couldn't be bothered to make on up, plus I had lent my welder out so £7 was the easy option. I am surprised at how much plastic makes up the steering wheel, There is a metal plate at the back, but I hope the plastic surrounds a metal skeleton.
 
bultacobob said:
Yes I too have learnt that lesson the hard way. Still trying, but have ordered a universal puller that should do the job. Laziness took over and I just couldn't be bothered to make on up, plus I had lent my welder out so £7 was the easy option. I am surprised at how much plastic makes up the steering wheel, There is a metal plate at the back, but I hope the plastic surrounds a metal skeleton.
Click to expand...
It does surround a metal skeleton. And it may be plastic, but at least it is quality British plastic. That was before the days of cheap imports from the Far East.
 
A deeper look at the situation threw up some more insight. My middle Son volunteered to help and swing the steering wheel under load. This highlighted a slight movement in the bulkhead bracket and one loose bolt and inner rusty bracket with a corroded turning bolt. Everything tighten up now! I had initially relied on a neighbour to check this for me (x army mechanic). Re checked the wheel alignment and now the axel is off buy 2cm to the passenger side!!! rechecked after the test run and now sitting back centrally again, helped by the road camber. Will post for help on this one.
 
bultacobob said:
A deeper look at the situation threw up some more insight. My middle Son volunteered to help and swing the steering wheel under load. This highlighted a slight movement in the bulkhead bracket and one loose bolt and inner rusty bracket with a corroded turning bolt. Everything tighten up now! I had initially relied on a neighbour to check this for me (x army mechanic). Re checked the wheel alignment and now the axel is off buy 2cm to the passenger side!!! rechecked after the test run and now sitting back centrally again, helped by the road camber. Will post for help on this one.
Click to expand...
While you are at it, have a look at the steering relay. Make sure it is firmly attached, not terribly worn, and has oil in it.
 
Turboman said:
While you are at it, have a look at the steering relay. Make sure it is firmly attached, not terribly worn, and has oil in it.
Click to expand...
Silly question, but how do you check the relay for oil? I was expecting some kind of filler/drain plug on it, but there doesn't appear to one, according to the green book. Is it usually just filled up before the top is bolted on?
I bought a new one, and naively just fitted it on the assumption it was 'good to go'. Now realising I probably should have checked this...
 
Take out two of the four screws holding the top on. An old-fashioned pump type oil can is handy here. Squirt oil into one hole, air comes out of the other. Fill to the top.
 
Ah, thanks. I'll give that a look. Is there a risk the screws will hydraulically lock if it's over full?

I can't check the green book at the moment - is it supposed to be full of EP90 or engine oil?
 
You'd think that there would be, but in practice if there isn't a leak there'll be an air bubble in there!

Can't remember which oil. My books are all in the workshop too. EP90 more likely though.
 
OK. Without looking at the think, I guessed the bolt holes were at the top, but I suppose if the lid is domed, then you've got a guaranteed air bubble in there. I'll not worry about having to wick a bit one once it's full, then.

I'll look in the book. I have a feeling I've seen it's EP90, but I will check. Might be able to smell it once the screws are out, assuming it's not completely empty.
 
TheMegaMan said:
Silly question, but how do you check the relay for oil? I was expecting some kind of filler/drain plug on it, but there doesn't appear to one, according to the green book. Is it usually just filled up before the top is bolted on?
I bought a new one, and naively just fitted it on the assumption it was 'good to go'. Now realising I probably should have checked this...
Click to expand...
There are two types. Older ones have a dedicated oil filler plug, on the side of the unit at the top.
Later ones, you just remove one of the bolts at the top, and run the oil in, as above.
I use a small plastic syringe to do this.
 
TheMegaMan said:
OK. Without looking at the think, I guessed the bolt holes were at the top, but I suppose if the lid is domed, then you've got a guaranteed air bubble in there. I'll not worry about having to wick a bit one once it's full, then.

I'll look in the book. I have a feeling I've seen it's EP90, but I will check. Might be able to smell it once the screws are out, assuming it's not completely empty.
Click to expand...

It is EP 90, and it doesn't matter if it is full to the brim, but it is good if there is some in there.
 
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