Depends how new your rad is. It is tight in there and you don't want to damage the cooling fins. If they're already flattened a bit then might as well go for it.

@rrdt - not me. Never failed on me yet.
Its a new rad - fitted this time last year, very low mileage since.

Thanks - I'll try leaving it in. Play safe.
 
If you are familiar leave it in. It is easier to see what’s what if you take it out, not big a job as it seems but as mentioned it depends if it’s fragile or not.

I had to change rad anyhow as when my pump blew @ 138,000 odd miles it ejected through the recently fitted new rad :(
1st new rad was a good one, 2nd time I fitted Br**part as all I could afford, made it lot easier with it out although I was weary as with manual transmission I didn’t want to disturb the oil pipes too much

Pump bolts aren’t to tight, just be gentle.
Thanks - I'm getting the impression I need to be REALLY careful with the pump bolts.
 
You do have to remove the cowl and to do that you have to remove the viscous fan, then there is sufficient roof to do the pump. I put a piece of hardboard over the rear face of the RAD to protect it while doing the pump.
Good thinking - I'll do that. Don't want to put a spanner through a new rad!
 
Not particularly but they torque up something like 8 - 10 (maybe??) nm - check RAVE get the picture in your head and all the exact settings you need, like torque settings.
The trouble is they can corrode in the waterpump housing so when you try to undo them you shear the head of the bolt off.I always heat the bolts up first.
 
The pump arrived yesterday so I'm going up now to fit it. Not sure yet which route I'll go with regard to removing the rad, I'll work that out when I get started. Going to have my head in the engine bay and RAVE in equal measure I suspect - and probably a few posts on here too. Cheers, Nick.
 
The pump arrived yesterday so I'm going up now to fit it. Not sure yet which route I'll go with regard to removing the rad, I'll work that out when I get started. Going to have my head in the engine bay and RAVE in equal measure I suspect - and probably a few posts on here too. Cheers, Nick.
Removing the pump is dead easy, or it was on my two. Took a bit of wriggling to get it out. I coated the O ring on the new ones with silicone grease before refitting.
 
+1 is easier than it seems, once you are in there youll be fine.

If you hit a problem (doubt you will) just stop, take a pic and we will all be here to get you through it :).
Gentle with the belt tensioner fulcrum btw, if you have a cheap viscous spanner you are half way to winning already ;)
 
+1 is easier than it seems, once you are in there youll be fine.

If you hit a problem (doubt you will) just stop, take a pic and we will all be here to get you through it :).
Gentle with the belt tensioner fulcrum btw, if you have a cheap viscous spanner you are half way to winning already ;)
Getting the viscous fan off may in fact be the biggest problem, especially with a cheap spanner, I have had to chisel one off.
Don't forget the viscous fan is a left hand thread.
 
I didnt buy one either.
Little coppaslip on refit and dont do up too tight will save you a world of pain if theres a next time
 
I didnt buy one either.
Little coppaslip on refit and dont do up too tight will save you a world of pain if theres a next time

I think he's gone. He'll either come back for a high 5-n (depending how the vicious the viscous was) or he'll be hanging from a beam by his jump-leads.
 
Sorry lads - been away for few days.
@Datatek , you must be telepathic! I was just coming back to ask what variety of Hylomar to use - there are dozens of them - but your suggestion of silicone grease, which I keep on hand permanently, answers the question perfectly.
@RangeRoller dt - I don't have a viscous spanner - I'm going to try a 32mm spanner and a hammer first - if that does not work I'll be on here asking if anyone in the area can lend me one!
Nearly gone cuckoo - have struggled with the fan so far but not really had the right tools - so try again later today.
 
Sorry lads - been away for few days.
@Datatek , you must be telepathic! I was just coming back to ask what variety of Hylomar to use - there are dozens of them - but your suggestion of silicone grease, which I keep on hand permanently, answers the question perfectly.
@RangeRoller dt - I don't have a viscous spanner - I'm going to try a 32mm spanner and a hammer first - if that does not work I'll be on here asking if anyone in the area can lend me one!
Nearly gone cuckoo - have struggled with the fan so far but not really had the right tools - so try again later today.

Blue Hylomar. Silicone grease is not a sealant Hylomar is. Blue Hylomar is the best sealant on the planet.
 
Right you are @wammers - blue Hylomar it shall be!
Do any of you know which bmw car shares the engine version used in the 2.5? I looked in rave but although that tells me all about the bore and stroke - There BMW tools advertised for the viscous fan, typically for say an E34, will these fit the bow in the RR?
 
Right you are @wammers - blue Hylomar it shall be!
Do any of you know which bmw car shares the engine version used in the 2.5? I looked in rave but although that tells me all about the bore and stroke - There BMW tools advertised for the viscous fan, typically for say an E34, will these fit the bow in the RR?

I just use a 32 mm spanner and an hammer to shock it. Don't forget it is L/H thread so slackens clockwise. Most of the viscous removal stuff on Ebay is crap and will just deform if it is tight.
 

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