Salisbury Nick
Well-Known Member
Its a new rad - fitted this time last year, very low mileage since.
Thanks - I'll try leaving it in. Play safe.
Thanks - I'll try leaving it in. Play safe.
Salisbury Nick
Well-Known Member
Thanks - I'm getting the impression I need to be REALLY careful with the pump bolts.If you are familiar leave it in. It is easier to see what’s what if you take it out, not big a job as it seems but as mentioned it depends if it’s fragile or not.
I had to change rad anyhow as when my pump blew @ 138,000 odd miles it ejected through the recently fitted new rad
1st new rad was a good one, 2nd time I fitted Br**part as all I could afford, made it lot easier with it out although I was weary as with manual transmission I didn’t want to disturb the oil pipes too much
Pump bolts aren’t to tight, just be gentle.
Salisbury Nick
Well-Known Member
Good thinking - I'll do that. Don't want to put a spanner through a new rad!
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Who's shouting?
You woke me up.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Not particularly but they torque up something like 8 - 10 (maybe??) nm - check RAVE get the picture in your head and all the exact settings you need, like torque settings.
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
The trouble is they can corrode in the waterpump housing so when you try to undo them you shear the head of the bolt off.I always heat the bolts up first.
Salisbury Nick
Well-Known Member
The pump arrived yesterday so I'm going up now to fit it. Not sure yet which route I'll go with regard to removing the rad, I'll work that out when I get started. Going to have my head in the engine bay and RAVE in equal measure I suspect - and probably a few posts on here too. Cheers, Nick.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Well you know what im like shearing parts off. Thats what happened last time I had a friend, i broke it
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Removing the pump is dead easy, or it was on my two. Took a bit of wriggling to get it out. I coated the O ring on the new ones with silicone grease before refitting.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
+1 is easier than it seems, once you are in there youll be fine.
If you hit a problem (doubt you will) just stop, take a pic and we will all be here to get you through it.
Gentle with the belt tensioner fulcrum btw, if you have a cheap viscous spanner you are half way to winning already
If you hit a problem (doubt you will) just stop, take a pic and we will all be here to get you through it
. Gentle with the belt tensioner fulcrum btw, if you have a cheap viscous spanner you are half way to winning already
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Getting the viscous fan off may in fact be the biggest problem, especially with a cheap spanner, I have had to chisel one off.+1 is easier than it seems, once you are in there youll be fine.
If you hit a problem (doubt you will) just stop, take a pic and we will all be here to get you through it
Gentle with the belt tensioner fulcrum btw, if you have a cheap viscous spanner you are half way to winning already
Don't forget the viscous fan is a left hand thread.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
I didnt buy one either.
Little coppaslip on refit and dont do up too tight will save you a world of pain if theres a next time
Little coppaslip on refit and dont do up too tight will save you a world of pain if theres a next time
I think he's gone. He'll either come back for a high 5-n (depending how the vicious the viscous was) or he'll be hanging from a beam by his jump-leads.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
Gone cuckoo
Salisbury Nick
Well-Known Member
Sorry lads - been away for few days.
@Datatek , you must be telepathic! I was just coming back to ask what variety of Hylomar to use - there are dozens of them - but your suggestion of silicone grease, which I keep on hand permanently, answers the question perfectly.
@RangeRoller dt - I don't have a viscous spanner - I'm going to try a 32mm spanner and a hammer first - if that does not work I'll be on here asking if anyone in the area can lend me one!
Nearly gone cuckoo - have struggled with the fan so far but not really had the right tools - so try again later today.
@Datatek , you must be telepathic! I was just coming back to ask what variety of Hylomar to use - there are dozens of them - but your suggestion of silicone grease, which I keep on hand permanently, answers the question perfectly.
@RangeRoller dt - I don't have a viscous spanner - I'm going to try a 32mm spanner and a hammer first - if that does not work I'll be on here asking if anyone in the area can lend me one!
Nearly gone cuckoo - have struggled with the fan so far but not really had the right tools - so try again later today.
Blue Hylomar. Silicone grease is not a sealant Hylomar is. Blue Hylomar is the best sealant on the planet.
Salisbury Nick
Well-Known Member
Right you are @wammers - blue Hylomar it shall be!
Do any of you know which bmw car shares the engine version used in the 2.5? I looked in rave but although that tells me all about the bore and stroke - There BMW tools advertised for the viscous fan, typically for say an E34, will these fit the bow in the RR?
Do any of you know which bmw car shares the engine version used in the 2.5? I looked in rave but although that tells me all about the bore and stroke - There BMW tools advertised for the viscous fan, typically for say an E34, will these fit the bow in the RR?
I just use a 32 mm spanner and an hammer to shock it. Don't forget it is L/H thread so slackens clockwise. Most of the viscous removal stuff on Ebay is crap and will just deform if it is tight.
