R

Royston 90

Active Member
I know this will probably open up a can of worms, but should I replace the dmf along with the clutch ?
A bit of background info. I had replaced the broken bias plate & springs etc late year & got nice smooth changes but my second gear synchro has needed replacing for a little while wich I put up with, but then my gear selection was getting harder (always did when warm) so replaced the selector yoke bush as it seemed to become stiffer. I noticed the oil was now a watery yellow wich I replaced with fresh & should of replaced sooner after the deep water I had been in. Anyway it did`nt improve things and I was almost having to force it into gear, so decided time for box out & replace clutch as more recently on a flat road with clutch depressed it would creep forward. Anyway slave cylinder pin was starting to poke it`s way through the fork, so got a new one along with slave cylinder. I picked up a recon box from Powertrain transmissions yesterday & will replace the clutch but should I do the flywheel ? it seems to have about 8 mm rotational play & about 3 mm when moved back and forth holding top and bottom. I`ve seen a couple of you tube vids and mine does seem to make the metal clonking noise as you try to rattle it back & forth, but the play seems to be alright.
 
I would replace it, save having to drop the gearbox again if the original needs replacing at a later stage.
Least if you replace you know it will be good for a fair amount of miles
 
Iancorky said:
I would replace it, save having to drop the gearbox again if the original needs replacing at a later stage.
Least if you replace you know it will be good for a fair amount of miles
Click to expand...
+1 ^^^^
Dropping the gearbox or pulling the engine aren't the sort of jobs to be undertaken lightly. Replace everything inside the bellhousing, while you're in there and have a chance to do it.
And while you've got the flywheel off it might be worth replacing the rear oilseal on the crankshaft too.
 
brian47 said:
+1 ^^^^
Dropping the gearbox or pulling the engine aren't the sort of jobs to be undertaken lightly. Replace everything inside the bellhousing, while you're in there and have a chance to do it.
And while you've got the flywheel off it might be worth replacing the rear oilseal on the crankshaft too.
Click to expand...
Think you’re right, just wondering wether to spend the £ or not. I didn’t actually find it too bad dropping the box and I have another vehicle to use whilst I do it. The two worst bits of the job were removing the x members (the first I had to cut off with the angle grinder as I did previously for exhaust replacement ) & the flat cross members bolts got the gas axe treatment. I’m sure I read a guide where it mentioned the bellhousing bolts were 13mm apart from top two wich were meant to be 15mm nuts. Mine were 13mm bolts all the way round. Crankshaft oil seal and the spigot seal are on the list too
 
8mm rotational play isnt a lot at all., have a google and see what you can fine, I bet yours is well within tolerance.

Last one i changed was on a sprinter and the one I removed was like a prick in a bucket pretty sure the new one had quite a bit of play, and it was genuine mercedes.
 
The clutch on our D2 is slipping a bit on hills. I am weighing up whether to have a crack at it myself. I have changed the cross-member bolts for new ones. A local 4x4 dealer will do it for £500, but that will go up if the DMF needs changing. If you are using an engine hoist and removing the centre console does it require a riveted plate removing? There is quite a lot of oil around the bottom of the gearbox housing. Could this get into the bell-housing and cause clutch slip?
 
brianconwy said:
The clutch on our D2 is slipping a bit on hills. I am weighing up whether to have a crack at it myself. I have changed the cross-member bolts for new ones. A local 4x4 dealer will do it for £500, but that will go up if the DMF needs changing. If you are using an engine hoist and removing the centre console does it require a riveted plate removing? There is quite a lot of oil around the bottom of the gearbox housing. Could this get into the bell-housing and cause clutch slip?
Click to expand...
yes remove tunnel cover rivets ,its often oily at the bottom but highly unlikely its effected the clutch, not changing the dmf as a matter of course is unwise imo, i use da23357g kit plus ftc5200g
 
What brand did you use and did you change the spigot bearing? I Don't really want to change the rear crankcase seal unless necessary.
 
brianconwy said:
What brand did you use and did you change the spigot bearing? I Don't really want to change the rear crankcase seal unless necessary.
Click to expand...
the da2357g kit is a valeo ,so proper parts yes i normally change spigot bush 8566l which supercedes to a later number,be aware a new bush can be a bit tight on the input shaft i often have to ream them a little flap wheel /dremel would do,ive never changed a rear main yet and unless obviously leaking i wouldnt
 
Any recommendations for moderately priced kits ? looking on the bay item there is a kit that contains valeo flywheel Borg & beck clutch cover/plate/thrust bearing and OEM spigot bearing all for 380 posted
 
brianconwy said:
The clutch on our D2 is slipping a bit on hills. I am weighing up whether to have a crack at it myself. I have changed the cross-member bolts for new ones. A local 4x4 dealer will do it for £500, but that will go up if the DMF needs changing. If you are using an engine hoist and removing the centre console does it require a riveted plate removing? There is quite a lot of oil around the bottom of the gearbox housing. Could this get into the bell-housing and cause clutch slip?
Click to expand...
If you do have a crack at it youself (only the second clutch i`ve done) it`s worth dropping out the engine mounts & lowering it to get easy access to the top bellhousing mounts. To make things even eaier I even took off the bonnet as it`s only x4 bolts and just gives you easier access along with better light to see what your doing.
 
jamesmartin said:
you can get at the bolts if you lower the transmission,remove the top bolts then raise it again to undo the rest
Click to expand...
I tried it this way as when lowering it it still seemed to be hard to access, although to be fair I didnt remove the acoustic cover as it seemed a bit stuck so I went with that method and acces to those top bolts seemed to be worth the effort in removing the engine mounts. I just thought I`d mention it, as it may make things easier for another novice like me who doesnt have your experiance
 
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