farmershort

farmershort

Well-Known Member
Hi All,

Well you've all helped me a great deal over the past few weeks, with a while variety of problems I've had with my '95 110 - THANK YOU!!!!

My next urgent job is the front n/s wheel bearings, and the front radius arm bushes. I've read busters' 'how-to' - thanks buster!

I then made the mistake of reading some other how-to's. like the one about A-frame bush renewels, etc.

I'm now wondering, should I change all this sort of stuff BEFORE it breaks? or should I leave it alone until it breaks?

Same with the wheel bearings really - I'll have done both n/s bearings by weekend - should I do both offside ones aswell? Or just leave them well along until they start to show problems?

there is always plan Z too - fix the stuff that's obvious and sell the bloomin thing before she costs me a fortune!

obviously I don't really want to do plan Z, but this landy is a lot more trouble than the one I had previously! The old one was a '92 200tdi, and all I replaced in 2 years, over 40,000 miles, was a UJ.

thanks

FS
 
If you go the replacing parts route I would keep it, you will only end up wanting another and have to start again. Bearing in mind your 110 is about 15 years old there is going to be some wear and tear and you may have been lucky with the 200tdi as it may have had the bits done before you got it.

Stick with it and replace the parts that need doing but if it will make you feel better do the other work too, one good thing about lr is the replacement parts are not too expensive :)
 
For me the most important things are a solid chassis, engine and gearbox. My motto.... if it aint bust dont fix it. If it needs replacing at some time, put it on the list but dont forget to add the bits you want rather than just ones for keeping it on the road.

If you have found the secret of replacing things just before they break... please share :)
 
MrJC said:
For me the most important things are a solid chassis, engine and gearbox. My motto.... if it aint bust dont fix it. If it needs replacing at some time, put it on the list but dont forget to add the bits you want rather than just ones for keeping it on the road.

If you have found the secret of replacing things just before they break... please share :)
Click to expand...

yeah good point!


thank both - time to man-up and get out the big tools again then :)

I chose the motor for the sound engine and chassis mainly... although being an amateur - I could well have picked wrong ;)
 
If you're concerned about a particular part such as a U/J or wheel bearing then buy a spare in ready. If I'm going on holiday I tend to carry many of my spares onboard. If I'm just pootling around town or local then I keep the spares in my shed.

I tend to carry a spare U/J, wheel bearing, wiper arms, blades and spindles, Coolant hoses, A frame ball joint, water pump (although my spare is currently fitted) thermostat, fuel air and oil filters, A gallon of each type of oil, PAS fluid, brake fluid (curently out of stock as I used it for work), Rescue tape, Track rod arms and ends, brake pads, throttle potentiometer, Headlight, indicator and lights switches (although I've yet to remeber where in my shed I've put em and I currently need the light switch:doh:) set of injectors, Complete rear prop, variety of screws, nuts and bolts, Variety of electrical connectors etc etc. I just buy bits and bobs when I see them cheap or know that it's summit I could be in the crap if I didn't have.
 
ratty said:
If you're concerned about a particular part such as a U/J or wheel bearing then buy a spare in ready. If I'm going on holiday I tend to carry many of my spares onboard. If I'm just pootling around town or local then I keep the spares in my shed.

I tend to carry a spare U/J, wheel bearing, wiper arms, blades and spindles, Coolant hoses, A frame ball joint, water pump (although my spare is currently fitted) thermostat, fuel air and oil filters, A gallon of each type of oil, PAS fluid, brake fluid (curently out of stock as I used it for work), Rescue tape, Track rod arms and ends, brake pads, throttle potentiometer, Headlight, indicator and lights switches (although I've yet to remeber where in my shed I've put em and I currently need the light switch:doh:) set of injectors, Complete rear prop, variety of screws, nuts and bolts, Variety of electrical connectors etc etc. I just buy bits and bobs when I see them cheap or know that it's summit I could be in the crap if I didn't have.
Click to expand...

Thats some good goin Ratty! I have a job on keeping up with replacing the parts that need replacing, never mind havng spares for them aswel Ha! :D
 
I know I have two different goals for my landy: 1) keep it running and on the road, and 2) learn how to fix as much as possible before I head out on my big trip (a year in Africa).

Goal 1 would suggest not to touch anything that's not showing problems. But goal 2 means I should proactively meddle and replace bits that might be OK. For me, if the part is cheap and is prone to wear, I'm going to replace it if I can. Right now I'm trying to figure out how to change my bushes without a hydraulic press. :)

Poking around until something breaks is also more fun. :)

- Andrew
 
depends which bushes you are changing? if you can get the item in a vice then you can use a hacksaw by putting the blade through the middle and cut it out, then with the new bush find a socket the same size and use plenty of copper slip and put it in a vice and tighten the vice up and hopefully the socket will push the new bush in. - i hope that makes some sort of sense.
 
big ad said:
depends which bushes you are changing? if you can get the item in a vice then you can use a hacksaw by putting the blade through the middle and cut it out, then with the new bush find a socket the same size and use plenty of copper slip and put it in a vice and tighten the vice up and hopefully the socket will push the new bush in. - i hope that makes some sort of sense.
Click to expand...

think the op was going to use polybush replacements so should go in without the vice iirc they come in 2 pieces
 
think the op was going to use polybush replacements so should go in without the vice iirc they come in 2 pieces
Click to expand...

The op likely was, but not me. After doing some reading I think I prefer going with rubber/steel and bringing polybushes along as emergency spares (that I can fit in the bush if needed). I was thinking about something along the lines of what you suggest with the vice, or even using a bearing puller or something similar.

One thought I had was using two (very?) strong steel bars, some thick threaded steel bars, and nuts to make a contraption where I could just slowly squeeze a bush in/out by tightening nuts on alternate sides, slowly bringing the bars closer together and squeezing a bit either in or out. I could bring said contraption on the road with me, whereas I don't think I'll want to bring a large vice.

Not sure this idea has any merit though.

- Andrew
 
I used a lump of wood ( 3x2 will do ), a bottle jack and a door frame of considerable strength ( ie not internal ). Using a space between 2 areas of decent rigidness, like 2 walls, will work as a make shift vice.

Place the wood on either side of the door frame, the bottlejack and the item to be pressed in the middle or nearer one side for ease and pump away.

Just take your time and watch as it gets pressed in and isn't on the **** at all. A small bottle jack lifts 1ton and costs apprx £10 from most auto shops, cheap and works ;)
 
AndrewPrior said:
The op likely was, but not me. After doing some reading I think I prefer going with rubber/steel and bringing polybushes along as emergency spares (that I can fit in the bush if needed). I was thinking about something along the lines of what you suggest with the vice, or even using a bearing puller or something similar.

One thought I had was using two (very?) strong steel bars, some thick threaded steel bars, and nuts to make a contraption where I could just slowly squeeze a bush in/out by tightening nuts on alternate sides, slowly bringing the bars closer together and squeezing a bit either in or out. I could bring said contraption on the road with me, whereas I don't think I'll want to bring a large vice.

Not sure this idea has any merit though.

- Andrew
Click to expand...

emergency spares!?!?!?! If you fit those steel & rubber things you will likely need a few hours to get them out... I know I did.

If I thought I had to change bushes at the side of the road, I'd deffo fit polys and replace with polys after doing this radius arm job.
 
farmershort said:
emergency spares!?!?!?! If you fit those steel & rubber things you will likely need a few hours to get them out... I know I did.

.
Click to expand...


Bollix they can be removed with a small cold chisel a decent drift and a fook orf huge hammer, in less than 10 minutes per arm. I know cos I've done at least 3 sets and that's the longest it's ever taken me. :rolleyes:


Edit me original post from when I did the 90's front arms last year.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/done-my-front-radius-arm-bushes-79806.html
 
Last edited:
redhand said:
Bollix they can be removed with a small cold chisel a decent drift and a fook orf huge hammer, in less than 10 minutes per arm. I know cos I've done at least 3 sets and that's the longest it's ever taken me. :rolleyes:


Edit me original post from when I did the 90's front arms last year.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/done-my-front-radius-arm-bushes-79806.html
Click to expand...

well christ - I wish you'd have been here the other night! it took me a feck of a long time, but I wasn't exactly using "ideal" tools.
 
farmershort said:
emergency spares!?!?!?! If you fit those steel & rubber things you will likely need a few hours to get them out... I know I did.
Click to expand...

I'm saying "emergency spare" in the context of a year long trip through Africa... so time isn't so much of an issue as the ability to actually get it done with no well equipped garage around.

Do bushes ever fail from catastrophic failures that would stop you from driving to the next town?

- Andrew
 
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