Hey all,

I did a quick search on here before posting so please forgive me if there is already information out there about this.

So as I mentioned in another thread I posted my gearbox went on the discovery a couple of weeks ago. I took it into a Land Rover specialist and was quoted nearly 2k to replace the gearbox. Needless to say that the poor disco is now sitting on my driveway still unable to move under its own power.

I have managed to source a second hand box, flex plate and torque convertor for less than £200 and I'm going to attempt the fix myself. I not unfamiliar with working on cars in fact I've worked on quite a few but this will be my first foray into Land Rover territory.

One thing I have already been told is that the gear box is really heavy so firstly can anyone advise a way of me being able to lift the gearbox out/in to the vehicle on my own? is this even possible?

Second as this is also my first time working with an auto box is there anything I should look out for or that could trip me up during disassembly/assembly.

Thanks in advance

use an engine crane through passenger door with a chain through the gear box tunnel opening,torque converter must be fully fitted to the box before fitting box to the engine,depth of t/c in bell housing needs measuring as does the amount drive plate sticks back from rear of engine,drain box before removal

If the vehicle is on high enough stands or ramps it might not be a killer.... i've seen a neighbour removing alone a P38's gearbox(which is the same) using a special transmission jack, something like this:
i offered him my help but he was too stubborn to do it alone so i just stood and watched being amazed how easy it seemed from outside

for the gearbox see "Installation information" here https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=52 cos it's very important to follow those steps

I have also done similar work alone. Removed transfer box and gearbox. The only thing I have done is that lift the car about 20cm (if you can do more would be even better) and used some simple tools (like LRT-99-010) to fix the boxes to hydraulic jacks.Once it is well fixed to the jack than you can pull it and lower it relatively easy.
If you can find such jack what Sierrafery mentions or an adapter like this would be a great help!
If you use jack with wheels make sure that you have a nice smooth surface on which the wheels can turn (I have suffered a lot due to bad floor in my garage). Once you have 50-60kgs on it every single small hole will block the wheels of the jack.
Not a nice job but can be done...

Nice one thanks for all your advice guys, fingers crossed a friend is booking it in with one of his friends to save me the hassle otherwise I will be doing it myself

jamesmartin said:

use an engine crane through passenger door with a chain through the gear box tunnel opening,torque converter must be fully fitted to the box before fitting box to the engine,depth of t/c in bell housing needs measuring as does the amount drive plate sticks back from rear of engine,drain box before removal

Click to expand...

Thankfully the wife has bought me a transmission jack to help with doing this, Just one question when you say I need to measure the depth of the torque converter, whats the reason for this? and is there a standard depth measurement that I should be looking for?

Thanks

leeorglory said:

Thankfully the wife has bought me a transmission jack to help with doing this, Just one question when you say I need to measure the depth of the torque converter, whats the reason for this? and is there a standard depth measurement that I should be looking for?

Thanks

Click to expand...

because when bolted to engine t/c should be 1-2mm short of the drive plate,and then t/c is pulled up by its securing bolts, if drive plate was too stick out too far, t/c would be pushed against the pump gear causing it to fail,you cant alter position of the t/c but drive plate can be adjusted by shims,its not normally an issue if removing a box and fitting the same back but can be if fitting another,checking the t/c fits slightly further in than the drive plate sticks out ensures your not going to apply pressure to t/c when box is bolted to engine,engine crane would have been better imo,but you need to work with what you have

Be worth reading through this;
https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=52

eightinavee said:

Be worth reading through this;
https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=52

Click to expand...

post #3 last sentence

Ahh, I only read the bit you put above the picture,I tend to post when I don't have much time.Like this morning when I was eating my breakfast... It does show however, that we were both thinking the same thing - And that it was important for the OP.