I was on me todd and it had to go thru 2 ordinary house doors (2'6") to get it in to the shed. Also I can stand it on it's side so it takes up less room. Plus when I come to paint it. I can lay it on 2 tressles, at waist height.
ur not paintin it befor easter shinig are u as all paint will be removed by gorse and trees
 
ur not paintin it befor easter shinig are u as all paint will be removed by gorse and trees

Fook aye course I am. if it get's fooked I'll Just retouch/repaint. it when I get back. It's getting done in Ral 1016 satin finish, fook orf super bright Sulfur yella.
 
Fook knows I'm working 1 handed cos me right elbows fooked and it's outside so if the weather turns ****e it'll put the kabosh on it. I'm hoping to get the tub off and the crossmember chopped off and cleaned up tomorrow. and the new one welded on Thurs.
 
Right I've just bin and resized em all ta 640 X 480. now shut the fook up and stop whining.
aw ffs ave just bin and redid ma settings to gert them to fit.. am at 25,000 x 17568 now and they just fitted now thems reet tiny
 
Thanks but I think I'm gonna keep it as a van. cause I have to carry me tools in it. when I get back to work again.
 
Right removed the rear tub and rear cross member today

The cut and shut didn't go quite as planned.
DSCF0725.jpg


This was the worse of the rot, Both ends were the same.

DSCF0727.jpg


With the wiring harness removed from the crossmember and kept out of the way. the cutting could start.
The N/S chassis rail.
DSCF0731.jpg


The O/S chassis rail.

DSCF0732.jpg


Tomorrow I'll be removing the last few bits of crossmember and cleaning everything up. prior to welding.
 
yer dunt need to remove it, spechully if yer aint fittin won wiv extensions.
just remove the rear mounting bolts then jack it up a bit. wiv the wheels orft, yer kin git at the top of the chassis from each side.

dunt fergit the wiring loom!

mines a 110 s/w. how the ferk do i get at the rear x-member without pulling up the back floor pan?
 

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