Pikey

Dummy Ejection Facilitator..
Right I am about to do a DK1.7mm Stylee review on removing the rear body/tub on a 90. In order to fit a new rear crossmember.

Unfortunately the crossmember I have doesn't have extensions. So I've decided that given my limited welding skills, it will be easier to remove the roof, sides & tub. and then to cut the crossmember away, clean the chassis legs up at the rear and then weld the new crossmember on.

Piccies :D and cursing to follow. :mad:
 
let me know how ya fair with the rear floor panel....i gotta take mine orf to replace the rear x-member....keep gettin brave, lie underneath and look at it, then chicken out till next weekend....now into the fifth weekend.
 
yer dunt need to remove it, spechully if yer aint fittin won wiv extensions.
just remove the rear mounting bolts then jack it up a bit. wiv the wheels orft, yer kin git at the top of the chassis from each side.

dunt fergit the wiring loom!
 
how do ya git it orf? with a grinder or would an air chisel work. then clean up with a grinder afterwards?
 
9" angle grinder.
when yer most er the way through, jack up the rear of the X member and that will open up the cut enough to finish it off.
 
how do ya git it orf? with a grinder or would an air chisel work. then clean up with a grinder afterwards?

I intend to use an reciprocating hacksaw & grinder. I tried jacking the back up but it'd only lift three inches and that was using a hilift under the spare wheel carrier on the rear door. So I decided to take the roof & sides off as I want to paint em any way & I'll be able to get em in me shed if I take em off. Also the the tub cappings have all blown with the rust, so I'll be able to replace those at the same time.
 
Well bodies off. Tub will be coming off in the morning

This what it looked like before I got started
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The Door comes off first.
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Followed by these 2 cover plates that hide the wiring for the rear lights & towbar wiring.
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I photographed the wiring To save any problems when reassembling it all. Here's one of them, the rest are on Photobucket.
DSCF0702.jpg

The roof liner came out next once the light and rearview mirror & mounting plate had been removed
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Oh thats why they leak yes that is daylight thru the top of the upright.
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Next step was to remove the roof it's held on by approx 30 nuts and bolts so have a large tub ready to put all the loose bolts in.
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Next to come off was the sides. these are quiet easy been held by only 3 bolts each. Unfortunately the O/S corner mount was seized and the bolt snapped. This is easily solved by using a long bolt when it goes back together.
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Once they were off the first of the tinworm reared it's ugly head
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The cappings have also blown at the rear quarters. I shall look into replacing these with series 3 109" galvanised cappings.
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I shall attack the Tub tomorrow.
 
Have you ever tried carrying a roof and sides through a 2'6" door, on your own??
 
No. You have a fair point there. Just a lot less bolts to undo if you've got somebody to give you a lift with it.

I was on me todd and it had to go thru 2 ordinary house doors (2'6") to get it in to the shed. Also I can stand it on it's side so it takes up less room. Plus when I come to paint it. I can lay it on 2 tressles, at waist height.
 
He's probably got it set to 800 x 600 so's he can see the wurds properly. cos he's too tight to buy noo glasses.
 
I was on me todd and it had to go thru 2 ordinary house doors (2'6") to get it in to the shed. Also I can stand it on it's side so it takes up less room. Plus when I come to paint it. I can lay it on 2 tressles, at waist height.
i can sympathise wish id dismantled me roof fore i carried it inta garage an scratched wifes car cos couldnt see what a was doing

ps yer got any big pics of it
 

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