L

lordcope

New Member
I wanted to tow a boat today, but the positioning of the spare wheel was such that it fouled the stern of the boat. I removed the wheel, but the stern still knocks on the wedge-shaped thing that holds the spare wheel, by a good few inches.

The wedge thing (what's the real name?) is held onto the rear door by 6 bolts, but upon attempting to loosen one of them, I got to the stage where the bolt was loose, but not removable, so I suspect there's a nut on the other side which is spinning at the same time. To get to that I need to remove the plastic panel on the inside of the rear door, and I can't see how to do that... furthermore it looks like I might need to desolder the connections to the window.

So: how to proceed? Can anyone explain how to remove the internal panel, so I can remove the wedge thing?

My landy is a 2013 Defender 90 hard top.

Thanks!
 
I cant help but ask…

"the stern still knocks on the wedge-shaped thing that holds the spare wheel"

You towing your boat backwards? :scratching_chin:
 
Unscrew and remove all handles.
Pull the trim back, use firm force, but don't over do it or you will break the trim clips and you might need those to put it back on securely. The trim should just unclip. The Spare Wheel carrier bolts are easily accessible.
Your trailer combo does not sound right - there should be a good gap when hitched between the front of the boat and the rear of the Defender.
 
soon as I have finished rust proofing and re-painting that wedge shaped thingy which holds on that round wheel type thingy :hysterically_laughi
 
Stuart45 said:
soon as I have finished rust proofing and re-painting that wedge shaped thingy which holds on that round wheel type thingy :hysterically_laughi
Click to expand...
Would that be the thingy which fouls on the blunty bit of the boaty thingy when the hitchy thingy is too close to the wedgy-type thingy?

Just askin :confused::confused:
 
Hi, first use a torx bit to remove the 4 screws holding the door handle on, the log handle under the window, then carefully prise the rectangular piece of Black plastic behind the door lever. The Black plastic door card is clipped in all around the edges (about 8 clips) and one clip in the middle. Once it starts to come undone it is easy using a flat blade screwdriver to prise the card off. Now you will see 6 large washes and nuts holding the spare wheel holder to the door. Just unbolt it. Refit is reverse.
 
Stuart45 said:
Unscrew and remove all handles.
Pull the trim back, use firm force, but don't over do it or you will break the trim clips and you might need those to put it back on securely. The trim should just unclip. The Spare Wheel carrier bolts are easily accessible.
Your trailer combo does not sound right - there should be a good gap when hitched between the front of the boat and the rear of the Defender.
Click to expand...

Agree. In the end I towed it with a different car, as I didn't have time to do any work on the landy. But when the *FRONT* of the boat was pulled right up to the front of the trailer, there was probably only 9 inches or so clearance from the back of the car, and with the steering wheel fully locked, the boat touched the rear of the car. Not sure why... I shall investigate. Pretty sure the same boat was towed on the same trailer with the same model car last year, and it wasn't a problem...
 
pob1968 said:
Hi, first use a torx bit to remove the 4 screws holding the door handle on, the log handle under the window, then carefully prise the rectangular piece of Black plastic behind the door lever. The Black plastic door card is clipped in all around the edges (about 8 clips) and one clip in the middle. Once it starts to come undone it is easy using a flat blade screwdriver to prise the card off. Now you will see 6 large washes and nuts holding the spare wheel holder to the door. Just unbolt it. Refit is reverse.
Click to expand...

Super - that sounds pretty much as expected based on my initial investigation. Thank you very much.
 
It sounds as though the winch/brace pillar is too far forward on the trailer ... or if the draw bar has been damaged has someone shortened it?

You should have at least 2'6" between the front of the boat and the back of your vehicle ... adjust the pillar as far as is necessary.
 
Resurrecting an old thread because I have a very similar question...

I'd like to remove my spare wheel holder most of the time, but be able to add it back on occasionally without removing all the trim.

Most of the time, my spare wheel lives in the back of the defender - it's more secure and means the door weighs less so SWMBO can actually open it and I get less earache. This means that the spare wheel holder is usually just a nuisance, eyesore and danger (the bolts stick out at roughly my daughter's head height). I've considered removing it permanently, but occasionally I need to be able to load the defender fully with camping stuff and still take the spare wheel with me. I don't want to do a trip to Cornwall without a spare, but if I'm just nipping to the tip with a full load, I just leave my spare wheel on the drive at home because SWMBO could always come and fetch me back so I can pick up the spare.

Any thoughts on whether I could get the internal nuts welded in place on the inside of the door without trashing the visible paintwork on the outside? If the nuts were captive, I could bolt/unbolt the spare wheel carrier as needed without taking the trim off every time...

Thanks
 
Weld nuts to a piece of strip in a H configuration, rivet/ bolt the H piece in place so that the holes in the door line up with the captive nuts on the strip.

Rivnuts would cause undue stress on the door.
 
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