That maybe to do with what exactly the dealer has disabled. You need a Nanocom on it with of course someone who knows what he is doing using it.
I see and it's full of open points which may or could have an answer with someone who's capable of what's he's doing... Someone I didn't find yet at my local dealer.
Thanks again guys!
I think with all security turned off you have a car that will lock & unlock on the key and start perfectly ok.
One of our members in Wickford, Essex UK asked me to do this for his P38 as he could not get his keys to re-synch and his doorlatch switches would NOT perform for EKA entry.
I have my BeCM set up to flash the side repeaters on EKA entry so that I know it is reading the key turns. Yours may be set up to signal digit entry by flashing a light on the console.
I'm sure you know the EKA entry procedure but the really important parts are:
Start.....key turned to locked & back to vertical four times. <<Tells the BecM you are now going to enter the EKA Code>
Then <1st digit> entered in the unlocked direction (whichever that is for your market/vehicle) and back to vertical for each time.
Then <2nd> digit entered in the locked direction (whichever that is for your market/vehicle) and back to vertical for each time.
Then <3rd> digit entered in the unlocked direction (whichever that is for your market/vehicle) and back to vertical for each time.
Then <4th> digit entered in the locked direction (whichever that is for your market/vehicle) and back to vertical for each time.
Finally, Turn once to unlocked and all the doors should unlock and the car "should" be re-mobilised.
It is very important to make sure you deliberately and carefully execute each key-turn AND back to vertical (and no further).
The doorlock contacts do go dodgy with age & use.
The flashing of the side-repeaters or the dashboard lamp (depending on how the system was set up) are your only indications that your entries are being seen.
If they are not consistently being seen then you will need a Nanocom (or similar) to re-mobilise the engine.
Thanks Dan.
One more point as I don't know if it's going to make the diffrence or not. When I lock/unlock the car, obviously using the key, the blinkers are not flashing as they are should do if everything was ok.
The EKA side, do I have to go through entering the 4 digits to watch out if the car will than resync with remote?
I know that there's no correlation between EKA and remote FOB non working. This is just to have more clear, to me, what to be excluded and what not to be done to avaid getting stacked again.
One more point as I don't know if it's going to make the diffrence or not. When I lock/unlock the car, obviously using the key, the blinkers are not flashing as they are should do if everything was ok.
The EKA side, do I have to go through entering the 4 digits to watch out if the car will than resync with remote?
I know that there's no correlation between EKA and remote FOB non working. This is just to have more clear, to me, what to be excluded and what not to be done to avaid getting stacked again.
Blinkers/repeaters flashing is a setting in the BeCM, so your may be set not to flash these lights.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
The EKA code will not re-sync a FOB it's nothing to do with FOB sync.
On my project car I have 2 FOB's one works correctly, LED flashes when put in the ignition and if unlocked with the key just the drivers door unlocks the other doors unlock as soon as the key is inserted in the ignition. In the ignition barrel there is a shutter that operates a micro switch, if that is stuck, easy sync does not work.
My second FOB will not sync, the LED does not flash when placed in the ignition, nor will it sync using the door lock method. the FOB does output a data stream which is recognised by the receiver and is visible on a scope. I suspect the circuit in the FOB responsible for initiating easy sync is faulty which also stops manual sync. Too cold for further investigation at the moment.
If I unlock the car with the key on the duff FOB I cannot start the engine, I get the press FOB unlock button message, so something has been changed in the BECM on yours to allow key operation, I know this can be done and I suspect it may have disabled syncing of the FOB..
So whats the problem again then?? Or you just asking how to get it to repsond to remote lock/unlock?
Well at this stage, I have the car perfectly working using the key to lock/unlock all doors and turn on the engine.
I have to exclude, as said by previous owner, that immobilizer was deactivated and this due to the fact that the car was deactivated with message press remote when I was working on the driver door.
To be excluded too alarm deactivated as when I lock the car the red led starts blinking on the dashboard.
The only thing to be sorted out is what was done on the BeCM to avoid easy resyncing process by inserting the key in the ignition nor via lock/unlock while pressing FOB's buttons.
So I only have to run a diagnostic.
I believe I have nothing else to do to resolve without getting back to LR dealer or other specialist using nanocom or some other software..
I have to exclude, as said by previous owner, that immobilizer was deactivated and this due to the fact that the car was deactivated with message press remote when I was working on the driver door.
To be excluded too alarm deactivated as when I lock the car the red led starts blinking on the dashboard.
The only thing to be sorted out is what was done on the BeCM to avoid easy resyncing process by inserting the key in the ignition nor via lock/unlock while pressing FOB's buttons.
So I only have to run a diagnostic.
I believe I have nothing else to do to resolve without getting back to LR dealer or other specialist using nanocom or some other software..
just asking how to get it to repsond to remote lock/unlock
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Led on the dash blinks on mine and the alarm is deactivated, do you get the fast flash when you lock followed by slow flashing?
yes.
The security can be a PITA if you're not used to it and it is acting up because of RF interference (@martyuk is the expert there).
I kind of skimmed the thread but it looked like the key needed syncing and then the EKA kicked in and needed entering. He said LHD. So is it NAS? Weren't they all 1515 for EKA? If any of the three microswitches on the lock aren't working the EKA won't go in. Opening the door after 2 attempts resets the "try count" so it won't lock you out forever. @mozz smith is the man when it comes to starting these things without a Nanocom.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
European LHD is not NAS and EKA is not 1515. (NAS = North American Specification)
Is it European? I wasn't sure where he was.
I don't think the poor bugger is sure where he is either at the moment!!
