Ptomo · Dec 14, 2015

has anyone ever had to shim a release bearing in their td4?
I had a crap pedal when I got it then after a few days pedal hit the floor,so I changed the master and pedal returned but still crap,2-3wk later pedal dropped again so bit the bullet an changed the lot for new (quite a task doing it on my own outside the house parked on a hill).
Once again I have a clutch but still a lot of play at the top,nearly half the travel is free movement then pressure and biting point is soon as I lift foot. I've bled system again but no diff so all I can think of is it either needs shimming or it has wrong clutch fitted somehow,wats your thoughts guys? Had new clutch an dmf fitted 3k ago but didn't state if had new hydraulic at same time but bearing I pulled off was knackered!!

jamesmartin · Dec 14, 2015

theres no adjustment , i find clutch pedal often improves after its run a few times,though they do seem as you say every time i refit a box, does it effect gear change

Dippypud · Dec 14, 2015

Ptomo said:
has anyone ever had to shim a release bearing in their td4?
I had a crap pedal when I got it then after a few days pedal hit the floor,so I changed the master and pedal returned but still crap,2-3wk later pedal dropped again so bit the bullet an changed the lot for new (quite a task doing it on my own outside the house parked on a hill).
Once again I have a clutch but still a lot of play at the top,nearly half the travel is free movement then pressure and biting point is soon as I lift foot. I've bled system again but no diff so all I can think of is it either needs shimming or it has wrong clutch fitted somehow,wats your thoughts guys? Had new clutch an dmf fitted 3k ago but didn't state if had new hydraulic at same time but bearing I pulled off was knackered!!

Did they replace the slave cylinder ?

jamesmartin · Dec 14, 2015

its a concentric type on a td4

Dippypud · Dec 14, 2015

Ptomo said:
has anyone ever had to shim a release bearing in their td4?
I had a crap pedal when I got it then after a few days pedal hit the floor,so I changed the master and pedal returned but still crap,2-3wk later pedal dropped again so bit the bullet an changed the lot for new (quite a task doing it on my own outside the house parked on a hill).
Once again I have a clutch but still a lot of play at the top,nearly half the travel is free movement then pressure and biting point is soon as I lift foot. I've bled system again but no diff so all I can think of is it either needs shimming or it has wrong clutch fitted somehow,wats your thoughts guys? Had new clutch an dmf fitted 3k ago but didn't state if had new hydraulic at same time but bearing I pulled off was knackered!!

Any evidence of fluid leakage in the footwell or on pipes ?
Read this it might help ... https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/td4-clutch-bleed-tutorial.137699/

Ptomo · Dec 14, 2015

I fit new master an bearing so no leaks even had a garage bleed it when had it in for rear brake pipes so it was done right but no change,it jus feels like bearing is moving too much before hitting the cover plate and that's why there's a lot of "free play" before any pressure to pedal. Going into gear ok reverse can grind if try to get it in too quick but if you do it slow it's ok no clunking at all.

Dippypud · Dec 14, 2015

Ptomo said:
I fit new master an bearing so no leaks even had a garage bleed it when had it in for rear brake pipes so it was done right but no change,it jus feels like bearing is moving too much before hitting the cover plate and that's why there's a lot of "free play" before any pressure to pedal. Going into gear ok reverse can grind if try to get it in too quick but if you do it slow it's ok no clunking at all.

Have you checked the pedal height ?
Does your VIN fall between WA 600000 to YA 699999 and YA 500000 to YA 530000

xpuser8334 · Dec 14, 2015

I tried shimming mine up due to the same problem..
I do all of my own maintenance so I did it as a "to prove a point" - When the gearbox came off I got hold of the flywheel and began to pull and push it to see if there was end-float.... sadly there was...... so I had the choice of changing the No.4 big end shell as that has the Thrust Race build in.. or swapping the engine...
well... my mate crashed his CDTI Rover 75 with low mileage.... so I took the engine off his hands....
Shimming up... not worth it... it only takes the wrong metal to be used, breakup and your snookered....
A set of shells can be bought FROM £54.00 and if you feel confident and are competent enough these can be done yourself.... but the gearbox is fastened up to the sump... so it's still a box out job any way..
Your choice really.... but you are shimming something up that is caused by a worn big crank shaft shell.. and if the crank is moving bank and forth.... are the bores "ovalating" due to the pistons moving back and forth in the cylinders......

Ptomo · Dec 14, 2015

Dippypud said:
Have you checked the pedal height ?
Does your VIN fall between WA 600000 to YA 699999 and YA 500000 to YA 530000

I'd have to check in morning.

Ooh don't like the sound of that,never thought about that when had box off,oh well I'll run it till it goes again an try sorting it then,only on 137k as well bummer!

xpuser8334 · Dec 14, 2015

A word of advice to all TD4 Manual Owners - regardless of GETRAG or PG1 box.... do NOT start the engine with the foot on the clutch.
this causes the bearing to wear much more quickly than it should...
My engine had 130,000 miles on it when it first went.....
now I have two engines... the rover engine came from an Auto... so I know the thrust shim isnt worn... and the old engine now has a new shell in no.4 - only because i had the cylinder check to see if t had gone oval... which it hadn't.
Not a bad position to be in really.... two engines.... and ironically two sets of Freelander Injectors (plus a set of rover 75 injectors too)

Ptomo

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Dippypud

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jamesmartin

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Dippypud

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Ptomo

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