sierrafery
Well-Known Member
my mechanic doesnt have that tool and removed the actuator without probs
Jamiegreen
Well-Known Member
Got them out with the vise and hammering a socket on there
Finally cleaned up all the ACE parts today, angle grinder and wire brush attachment done a nice job, figured they could use a clean and will stop them rusting any worse. My hydraulics guy pressed new bushes in for me, got them from LR direct for a few quid. All painted now so just a case of swapping it all over. Will be some sway bar conversion parts for sale soon if anyones interested
Attachments
1988smithy
Well-Known Member
Got them out with the vise and hammering a socket on there
Finally cleaned up all the ACE parts today, angle grinder and wire brush attachment done a nice job, figured they could use a clean and will stop them rusting any worse.
Looks a nice job, my favourite part of any work is the cleaning up and lick of paint
Jamiegreen
Well-Known Member
Well this job is turning into a right b**ch, but it’s getting there.. I think
Hoping for a couple quick answers,
Should the ram be in the fully compressed (inside) position when reconnecting to sway bar with the drop link holes level with each other?
And if someone could label the outputs of the valve block so I know where things go that would be great, I just don’t know which pipes go to which side of the rams
Thanks
Hoping for a couple quick answers,
Should the ram be in the fully compressed (inside) position when reconnecting to sway bar with the drop link holes level with each other?
And if someone could label the outputs of the valve block so I know where things go that would be great, I just don’t know which pipes go to which side of the rams
Thanks
blueovalcraig
Active Member
Following this thread with interest as a previous owner has removed the ACE pump from mine but everything else seems to be in place. I'm looking to re-instate ACE in the summer.
Jamiegreen
Well-Known Member
You sure it’s still running on the rams and hasn’t had normal sway bars fitted? Because i remember when my ace failed on my old one it was virtually undrivable it was so jelly like
But if it’s been removed I’d guess something was leaking, block or pipes probably, I don’t think I’d wanna do this job again unless I was in a heated garage and not a stable with a floodlight and 2 degrees
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
depends on axle position to chassis, once bar is mounted to chassis use a jack to adjust axle height to suitWell this job is turning into a right b**ch, but it’s getting there.. I think
Hoping for a couple quick answers,
Should the ram be in the fully compressed (inside) position when reconnecting to sway bar with the drop link holes level with each other?
And if someone could label the outputs of the valve block so I know where things go that would be great, I just don’t know which pipes go to which side of the rams
Thanks
blueovalcraig
Active Member
Yep, it still has the rams etc in situ
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
see the attached diagram, the pipes are going as follows:
- nr 18 into the valve block bottom rear,
- nr. 17 into the valve block top rear,
- nr. 15 into the valve block second from top front,
- nr. 16 into the valve block top front,
- nr. 13(pump outlet) into the valve block second from bottom front,
- nr. 14(return to tank) into the valve block bottom front.
you can identify the ram pipes from the shape of the actuator side cos one each side is bent 2 x 90 degrees
Jamiegreen
Well-Known Member
Attachments
Jamiegreen
Well-Known Member
Did prime the pump and run the engine and there weren’t any leaks, well.. except the fact I had accidentally hit the transmission cooler line with the angle grinder...then broke the tranny radiator joint.. so need to repair all that first.. which isn’t ideal as I’ve got to move my eurotunnel booking which was tomorrow
Jamiegreen
Well-Known Member
Just a little update, all hoses are fixed on now with brackets, at least where I could, the front part of the chassis under the engine wasn't thick enough to tap a thread into so some big zip ties done the job. Got some new pipe to slide over the transmission cooler pipe, to take it up to the new radiator, which is coming tomorrow. Seems the ACE ECU has been switched off properly as its still plugged in with no jumped pins. Having someone switch it back on and bleed it tomorrow.. so that should be my final update on this.. I hope.. please
