I was going to do it today, but due top a trapped nerve in my back I have referred paind and worse the muscles are as weak as a kitten in my left elbow and upper arm.I ordered the Optimal hub 'kit' last Monday so when I get it I'll see what make of bearing is fitted & let you know. I didn't think the noise I had could be a wheel bearing at first especially with the harsh vibration through the throttle pedal but when I noticed the noise/vibration disappeared when I cornered, I jacked it up & sure enough a fair bit of play. It's the opposite side to the drive shaft oil seal I did (with your great tip of taking the d/shaft & hub out in one) but this time I'll have to undo THAT nut to change the hub . I going to change the seal & knuckle ball joints whilst it's apart, in for a penny in for a pound, so with the new hub I hope I won't have to revisit that area for some time.
When do you hope to tackle yours ?
So I just put it all back together as, stupidly, I had forgotten I was doing all this on a slight side slope so I'd be losing oil from the axle.
Tomorrow I'll turn the truck around and hopefully the arm will be better, as i have to tackle the nut at feck off torque.
Once swapped I'll test it, with everything crossed that the thrum thrum will have gone away.
I'll let you know how I get on.
Best of luck with getting those ball joints out. It is no picnic and I didn't do it. Couldn't justify it on the grounds of no play in three and only tiny play in one.
Unlike yours I can detect no play whatsoever in the hub. I'd have seen that when I tested them first time around, if it had been detectable. So I am not changing the hub based on that. Nor any indication from the 3 amigos, cos there is none.
Did you not get the three amigos up? Play in the hub is supposed to set them off as the critical distance between the reluctor ring and the sensor is supposed to go off when it's worn.
Anyway, best of luck!