Gary j · Oct 25, 2018

Hi, the time has come to sort my diff out as it's starting to whine really badly.

What tools do i need before I start a rebuild? Just a bearing puller?
Or is it a better option to buy a reconditioned unit and just do a straight swap.
Whilst I sort the diff I'm gonna replace the propshaft bearings, diff mounts and fuel cradle. Anything else I should maintain whilst the prop is off?

Many thanks

rob_bell · Oct 29, 2018

Hi Gary, can't help with advice, as this is not something I've done before, but I bet there is a wealth of information around, as the FL1 rear diff is a common fitment on Kit cars of a variety of flavours (including Locost IIRC). This also means that there is a LSD also readily available if you wanted to upgrade the off-road potential of your Hippo

Nodge68 · Oct 29, 2018

Gary j said:
What tools do i need before I start a rebuild? Just a bearing puller?

I could rebuild the diff if I needed to, but it's a skilled job that requires more than puller. You'll need a dial gauge to measure backlash and you'll also need to find the data for the backlash and grar mesh, both of which would be nearly impossible to find. Also if it's been noisy for a long time, the gears will now be worn, which means they could always be noisy.
I'm curious as to why it's gone noisy, as normally the rear diff is pretty long lasting, unless it's been overloaded by the VCU.

Gary j said:
Or is it a better option to buy a reconditioned unit and just do a straight swap.

I'd get a second hand diff, as they're normally pretty reliable.

Loonytunes · Nov 27, 2019

Hi done mine about 2 months ago. Not that hard to do. Worst part is doing up front pinion bolt. As it needs about 375nm torque. Other than that straight forward. Just make sure all casing is clean and all gearing is in good condition no wear on pinion and crown. No need for dial gauge as there’s no ajudsment on these. Also be careful when pulling bearings of main gear assembly as I had mine come apart.
And also be careful as there are shims behind them. When removed bag shims label which side they come from. Also be careful when removing pinion bearing races as there a shim behind inner one. Rebuild is reverse of strip down. Bearing caps use 80nm torque when final tightening. Use a yellow sharpie to check crown to pinion tooth meshing is good. Should have a full impression across whole tooth mark in 2 places best opposite each other pinion hiegjt is set by the shim under inner bearing race. Should only take max a day to rebuild. Oh and wash all parts in petrol/paraffin. And also best to change needle bearings and drive shaft seals

Madmustang · Nov 27, 2019

Loonytunes said:
Hi done mine about 2 months ago. Not that hard to do. Worst part is doing up front pinion bolt. As it needs about 375nm torque. Other than that straight forward. Just make sure all casing is clean and all gearing is in good condition no wear on pinion and crown. No need for dial gauge as there’s no ajudsment on these. Also be careful when pulling bearings of main gear assembly as I had mine come apart.
And also be careful as there are shims behind them. When removed bag shims label which side they come from. Also be careful when removing pinion bearing races as there a shim behind inner one. Rebuild is reverse of strip down. Bearing caps use 80nm torque when final tightening. Use a yellow sharpie to check crown to pinion tooth meshing is good. Should have a full impression across whole tooth mark in 2 places best opposite each other pinion hiegjt is set by the shim under inner bearing race. Should only take max a day to rebuild. Oh and wash all parts in petrol/paraffin. And also best to change needle bearings and drive shaft seals

Wish I knew this before I spent £300 on a recon

Loonytunes · Nov 27, 2019

Oh before I forget check diff casting numbers as the made a change mine was a 47089 casting which is the early one the later ones I think start with 51 on the casting. The later one take a larger bearing. Done to try and make them harder wearing. But from I’ve read it just made the castings wear more. And someone correct me if I’m wrong but it’s the Salisbury diffs need backlash setting like in the discos and defenders. The Freelander has a Danna diff which appears to be preset by the shims behind the side bearings.

Loonytunes · Nov 27, 2019

Sorry that’s 47098 casting for the early diffs

Steve in Antrim · Nov 27, 2019

In same dilemma with mine. Original diff killed by overtight VCU and the used one I fitted must have come from a car with the same problem because it is whining now. Think I will take a trip around the breakers and try another used one if I can find one cheaply before I stump up 300 notes for a reconditioned unit. If you are dropping the subframe to fit a new fuel tank cradle check out the subframe mounting point on RHS for the usual cracking problem. If it is going be a good idea to get that welded up while you have things apart. - just noticed the original post was from ages ago so guess the advice is a bit late now!

Gary j

Member

rob_bell

Well-Known Member

Nodge68

Well-Known Member

Loonytunes

Member

Madmustang

Well-Known Member

Loonytunes

Member

Loonytunes

Member

Steve in Antrim

Active Member

Similar threads