Smack the rusty bits with a decent hammer, if it doesnt bend or dent its good enough to go again, it really is that simple.
Galv chassis is nice, mate just done his, but the amount of time and money he spent as he found other stuff is unreal!
Basically apart from the tatty body its nearly a new car
Dont forget defender bits are always worth money on the bay of e
Very good, it certainly doesn't look as bad as mine, a couple of coats of POR15 once your welding has been done and I'm sure it'll last years. It would be a shame to strip it and then sell it, you could always pick yourself a used mig welder of ebay and do it yourself, you'd be surprised how easy it is with a bit of practice, my mig welder must have paid for itself a few times over and I think I paid about £100 off ebay a few years ago.
I've got a Clarke 105 and I wished it was a bit more powerful.
Have a read....http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f16/what-size-makes-mig-welder-266368.html
Think it's always the same, I bought a sealey 150 and would like something better.
Or at least something with a proper power knob as opposed to 2 switches.
I bought a Sealey Supermig 185 around 5 years ago and although not without its problems, it seems to weld pretty much anything i need. I did change the wire from .6 to .8 and this has made a massive difference. Much easier to fill any holes that usually appear with rusty metal.