Italian dave

Banned

• Aug 20, 2009

• #1

the rear windows on my disco have stopped working the switches in the front are ok as I swapped them over from the front ones and the front windows worked ok.
Its to hot to not have em working (no air con) and the kids are cooking in the back!!!
any ideas on what it might be before I srtip out the back doors?

 

D

discomania

Well-Known Member

• Aug 20, 2009

• #2

Checked fuses?

 

Italian dave

Banned

• Aug 20, 2009

• #3

yes done all that got no live feed to window motor chcked continuity from switches to motor an all is good motors are working fine suppose Id best chck the fuse box.

 

discool

Well-Known Member

• Aug 20, 2009

• #4

It's s common problem with the rear windows failing to work properly on some discos according to the forums, the cause is dry soldered joints within the window ECU.
It's an easy repair just re-solder the joints.

 

Italian dave

Banned

• Aug 20, 2009

• #5

ok so where is the ECU for the windows? sorry to be a pain but i dont have an owners manual(previous owner lost it) never mind a haynes (on the shopping list for when I come back to uk in October).
Checked all wiring with multi meter all looks good , continuity where it should be so I hope its the joints like you say.
cheers dave

 

discool

Well-Known Member

• Aug 20, 2009

• #6

If you have a disco two then sorry I don't know, but on a RHD D1-1994 onwards it's behind the glovebox.

 

Stickybackbob

New Member

• Aug 20, 2009

• #7

Same place on a RHD 96 300TDi.

Run a search on LZ or even over the web as there are some good links about. Have you tried looking in Rave?

 

Italian dave

Banned

• Aug 20, 2009

• #8

Ive got a 1997 on a P plate no idea if its a d1 or d2

 

Stickybackbob

New Member

• Aug 20, 2009

• #9

Even found a link Repair a Land Rover Discovery electric window ECU to make the rear windows open again.

 

discool

Well-Known Member

• Aug 20, 2009

• #10

Italian dave said:

Ive got a 1997 on a P plate no idea if its a d1 or d2

Click to expand...

It's a D1 then.

 

Stickybackbob

New Member

• Aug 20, 2009

• #11

Yours is a D1 (300TDi right?)

 

discobill

Active Member

• Aug 20, 2009

• #12

Hello Bob.. cover plate worked a treat, even gave it a coat of black Smoothrite before fitting.

 

Italian dave

Banned

• Aug 20, 2009

• #13

all done it was a dry joint .Thanks very much for all your help stickyback bob you just saved me hours of dicking about and I didnt even burn myself or anything else for that matter!!
Thanks again guys

 

Stickybackbob

New Member

• Aug 21, 2009

• #14

discobill said:

Hello Bob.. cover plate worked a treat, even gave it a coat of black Smoothrite before fitting.

Click to expand...

Hi Bill, glad to have helped. At least the plate will look pretty now but can't help thinking that a polished cover plate looks far better (us bikers like a bit of polished ally)

 

Stickybackbob

New Member

• Aug 21, 2009

• #15

Italian dave said:

all done it was a dry joint .Thanks very much for all your help stickyback bob you just saved me hours of dicking about and I didnt even burn myself or anything else for that matter!!
Thanks again guys

Click to expand...

No probs Dave, glad to have helped. Did you get the download of Rave? Not as easy to understand as say a Haynes but it's a free manual at the end of the day.

 

S

stuart.h

New Member

• Aug 24, 2009

• #16

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the advice. Mines a '96 disco V8. Quite a job to remove the window ECU only to find no dry joints. After much seraching came across a quick fix solution to the problem without having to removing the Window Ecu, although my ECU was different to the one discribed so may not work for all models. You should have two multi plugs going into the ecu. Connect the green and white wire from the one to the pink and white wire of the other. This bypasses the rear window lock. Should only take around 10minutes while stripping out the ECU takes ages.