Hi, it could well have been changed already in that case it( the coating) won't need scraping back but my original pipes had a green tinge to them (which is a plastic coat/sleeve). Have a look at a good clean none corroded bit of brake pipe, say under the bonnet going to the ABS pump & see if it's detectable.
 
Do some practice flares & bends on a short length of pipe first.

Also remember to put the fittings on the pipe before flaring. …… yes everyone forgets once or twice !!
 
IMG_1653.jpeg

IMG_1658.jpeg

IMG_1656.jpeg

Update:
After some procrastinating big time… i put together all fittings where it was corroded and where I could not open with the wrench and ended up buying a cheap and an expensive flaring tool.

Difference between cheap and expensive flaring tool is day and night, no point getting cheap one unless you plan on making a crooked flare, though it can be properly done with the cheap one if you put in the time and effort but the big flaring tool on the vice so much better…

For the first pic I had to use cheap one because the big one couldn’t fit in the small space, also it didnt flare too well, my thought is because it is steel or just hardened copper. However it seemed i got somewhat of a flare on the old brake line and it also the only place that seems to be leaking…

If i replace the whole thing, its gonna be a big job, because it goes directly all the way to the motor or something… would appreciate any advice

I did tighten it fairly but didnt go further and risk cracking it because of how hard the line is.

The second pic on the top is where the first pic is. The last picture is the bubble flares i used on all new lines except for connecting to the brake hose, it seems to use the double flare type by looking inside it.

Im thinking of using some kind of glue which is corrosion and heat resistant from brake fluid to just seal it shut in the second pic, on the outside. Im planning to just scrap the car after the eu control is finished(we have mandatory inspection at the mechanic every 2 years for all cars, to drive legally) so i dont need to worry about anyone else after me.

Thanks for reading 🤝😊
 
Hi, on mine I joined the rear brake pipes under the drivers door (right hand drive) so had no access issues when flaring the original pipes (as I didn't want leaks on such a critical system). Can you post a picture of the cheap flaring tool so people can avoid it please,all the best.
 
Those cheap flaring tools aren’t suitable for steel, generally.

Get underneath with a torch and follow the original pipe to the ABS unit. Thread a new length of copper pipe alongside it, to get the route correct, then make the joint into the ABS block. Cut away the old pipe before clipping the new into place, checking it’s secure and not rubbing.

A few tips:

To stop the pipes dribbling so much while open, wedge the brake pedal down with a bit of wood.

It might help to anneal the copper where it needs a sharp bend - heat to red hot then leave to cool.

Red rubber grease will help the flare form.

I’d seriously consider running a continuous length front to back to avoid having a joint. Brake pipe is cheap, brakes are critical!

Once the pipe is fitted, top up the master cylinder, release the brake pedal, open the relevant bleed nipple, put a container under it and go for a coffee. Once it’s dripping freely it’ll be 95% bled.

Be careful tightening copper pipe unions - feel the nut just start to seat, then maybe 1/2 turn. Test with the engine running and a hard press on the pedal. Nip up any unions that are weeping.

I’ve seen copper pipe unions overtightened (by a trained mechanic) that sheared the flare off, then let go under pressure.
 
Please don't apply glue to any brake pipe joints even to drive it 100 metres !!!

It will end badly. Remake the necessary section and fit at a point where access is ok.

I always use Kunifer not copper. Copper is too soft and the unions brake when overtightened or unscrewed at a later date.
 
Andy Warren said:
Hi, on mine I joined the rear brake pipes under the drivers door (right hand drive) so had no access issues when flaring the original pipes (as I didn't want leaks on such a critical system). Can you post a picture of the cheap flaring tool so people can avoid it please,all the best.
Click to expand...
This is the one i used, the black die even got damaged and also the thing that holds the line
IMG_1660.png
 
andyfreelandy said:
Please don't apply glue to any brake pipe joints even to drive it 100 metres !!!

It will end badly. Remake the necessary section and fit at a point where access is ok.

I always use Kunifer not copper. Copper is too soft and the unions brake when overtightened or unscrewed at a later date.
Click to expand...
Is kunifer copper and nickel? Thats the one i got
 
guineafowl21 said:
Those cheap flaring tools aren’t suitable for steel, generally.

Get underneath with a torch and follow the original pipe to the ABS unit. Thread a new length of copper pipe alongside it, to get the route correct, then make the joint into the ABS block. Cut away the old pipe before clipping the new into place, checking it’s secure and not rubbing.

A few tips:

To stop the pipes dribbling so much while open, wedge the brake pedal down with a bit of wood.

It might help to anneal the copper where it needs a sharp bend - heat to red hot then leave to cool.

Red rubber grease will help the flare form.

I’d seriously consider running a continuous length front to back to avoid having a joint. Brake pipe is cheap, brakes are critical!

Once the pipe is fitted, top up the master cylinder, release the brake pedal, open the relevant bleed nipple, put a container under it and go for a coffee. Once it’s dripping freely it’ll be 95% bled.

Be careful tightening copper pipe unions - feel the nut just start to seat, then maybe 1/2 turn. Test with the engine running and a hard press on the pedal. Nip up any unions that are weeping.

I’ve seen copper pipe unions overtightened (by a trained mechanic) that sheared the flare off, then let go under pressure.
Click to expand...
would I also need to lower the fuel tank? I read somewhere that is needed when changing brake line on the right side of the car (right side from behind it)
 
andyfreelandy said:
Please don't apply glue to any brake pipe joints even to drive it 100 metres !!!

It will end badly. Remake the necessary section and fit at a point where access is ok.

I always use Kunifer not copper. Copper is too soft and the unions brake when overtightened or unscrewed at a later date.
Click to expand...
I found one that might work, its called loctite 545 which is made for hydraulic and pneumatic systems, but im not sure if it will tolerate the brake fluid itself. It says it is non contaminating too
 
Shabe said:
I found one that might work, its called loctite 545 which is made for hydraulic and pneumatic systems, but im not sure if it will tolerate the brake fluid itself.
Click to expand...

Do the job properly… if not for you, then for other road users / members of the public.
 
Shabe said:
would I also need to lower the fuel tank? I read somewhere that is needed when changing brake line on the right side of the car (right side from behind it)
Click to expand...
No need to lower anything, apart from maybe the exhaust. Plan how you are going to run it as both ends are a pain.
Get some more clips, maybe even at the rear leave old pipe in to clip to.
The bends to the abs pump are tight. You'll probably need diagnostic software to run the abs pump while bleeding. Diagnostic software depends on if you want to use it on other makes. Make sure it does the two way communication to run the abs pump.
 
Yep, just to clarify, when I said copper, I meant Cunifer.

I agree, don’t bodge the bad connection with glue.

I did all the brake lines (except master -> ABS unit) on several RHD TD4s. It was a while back but I don’t remember any great upheavals to get them fitted.

I also got away with not needing to do a scan tool bleed, which I put down to the brake pedal trick.
 
Shabe said:
I found one that might work, its called loctite 545 which is made for hydraulic and pneumatic systems, but im not sure if it will tolerate the brake fluid itself. It says it is non contaminating too
Click to expand...
If you can't do it properly then take it to someone who can, brakes are the most critical part of your car and the thought of them failing because of a stupid bodge doesn't bare thinking about.
Think about it, they will be most likely to fail when you need them most, like when coming off a motorway or when the traffic in front stops unexpectedly as you'll be stamping on them harder than usual.
 
Alibro said:
If you can't do it properly then take it to someone who can, brakes are the most critical part of your car and the thought of them failing because of a stupid bodge doesn't bare thinking about.
Think about it, they will be most likely to fail when you need them most, like when coming off a motorway or when the traffic in front stops unexpectedly as you'll be stamping on them harder than usual.
Click to expand...
i took it to the mechanic, it cost some trying to fix myself but i dont regret it tho, at least its all good now
 
Shabe said:
i took it to the mechanic, it cost some trying to fix myself but i dont regret it tho, at least its all good now
Click to expand...
We had an old horse lorry that SWMBO and our daughter used to go to pony club stuff, it was old but still looked OK and went well.
Anyway one time she took it for MOT and I got a phone call from her saying the lorry was impounded by the MOT people. Turns out when they were testing the brakes they stamped hard enough on the pedal that one of the brake pipes burst and the brakes completely failed. Had this happened when they were driving it could have resulted in a very nasty accident so I feel I owe the MOT guys a lot, maybe the lives of my wife and daughter.
It was a lesson to me to take brakes seriously.
 
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