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David Pettengell

Member
So, I had holes in the rear floor so I ordered a new one. I removed the old one and found the supports that go across the floor were completely rusted so I have ordered some new ones from YRM.

My question is how do I attach the rubber pads to the cross supports? also, do I need extra rubber pads to go on between the chassis and the floor?
 
David Pettengell said:
So, I had holes in the rear floor so I ordered a new one. I removed the old one and found the supports that go across the floor were completely rusted so I have ordered some new ones from YRM.

My question is how do I attach the rubber pads to the cross supports? also, do I need extra rubber pads to go on between the chassis and the floor?
Click to expand...
Interested in this job. I've got a couple of small holes in the tub floor. How difficult was it to remove the floor? I see YRM sell the floors and fixings.
 
My rear floor only has one small hole in the middle I was thinking of cutting out a new floor from chequar plate and riveting it over the old floor (I thought the chequered plate would help the dogs get a grip in the back) is there any reason why I shouldn't leave the old floor in place under the new one?
 
Rubber pads are pop riveted on and you only need one on each end to sit on the chassis.
 
If I remember correctly the rubber pads on my series 2a are held on with solid rivets - I'll check tomorrow

I've been surprised to see most of the construction of the tub is actually spot welded rather than riveted. Is that also the case for the series 3?
 
Most of mine was solid riveted and was easy to drill out. Job took about 30 minutes. It took longer to remove the rust from the chassis rails that you get great access to.
 
Got to replace the X member's on the 2a when we get round to it, I replaced them on my last 2a and was quite an easy job from what I can remember :)
 
Series 3's seem to be riveted and spot welded. I need to replace the floor pan, ribs and top hat sections on mine and the galvanic corrosion has set it. I cant believe a thin sheet of aluminium with some holes in costs £50? :eek:
 
I took my floor (1974 ser 3 station wagon) out to have a new rear cross-member welded in. I had to break over 70 spot welds, plus several rivets and a couple of bolts. It was not an easy job. Now I am mulling over the best way to replace it. I was (perhaps naively) surprised to find that the three supports were skewed - about 1/2" out from left to right. Perhaps a different team built each side? Please keep us informed how you get on.
 
Rubins4 said:
70 spot welds!! :eek::eek::confused:
Click to expand...
Yes, it was a surprise! I had to drill out the top, then wang a long wedge between the floor and the lip. Noisy and accompanied by a lot of muttering. But it enabled the welder to get full access to the top of the chassis and do a proper job. I have also been able to clean up the chassis top surface. I won't finish properly till we get some hot weather, so I can get waxoyl in all the necessary places.
 
Good stuff.

I tried Waxoyling (well, dinitrolling) in the late autumn and it was a waste of time, despite heating the canister up by the heater.
 
So I finished the rear floor today. Was a pretty easy job. Riveted the rubber pads on the crossmembers , fitted them and then the floor on top and riveted everywhere.Looks good
 
I get the dinitrol in the disposable schutz canisters, I assume it is thinned in some way as it sprays easily even in cool conditions.
 
This is as i tried but it was not easy. I think between the cold air cooling the canister and the temp drop due to the drop in pressure if the air as it leaves the nozzle it quickly became blocked. Perhaps I should have thinned it down?
 
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