N

neilp1

Active Member
I’m replacing lots of my rear tub and made the cardinal sin of not taking the measurements at the rear.
Can someone do me a big favour and measure the rear door opening in 3 places as shown in the photo. Mine is 10mm bigger at top. I did have it pulled in at top but sprang when I removed clamp.

thanks in advance
E131D2A2-F352-4786-B3BF-A9DCF6EFFA9E.jpeg
 
I get 920mm bottom and middle and 915mm top because of the 2 corner plates.

You are talking of the big door and not the flap type?
J
 
What measurement do you actually get?
Cos once you put the sides and roof on I am sure it could be pulled straighter abit.
Never had the tub off but am pretty sure its quite flexible just as a tub.

J
 
neilp1 said:
I’m replacing lots of my rear tub and made the cardinal sin of not taking the measurements at the rear.
Can someone do me a big favour and measure the rear door opening in 3 places as shown in the photo. Mine is 10mm bigger at top. I did have it pulled in at top but sprang when I removed clamp.

thanks in advance
View attachment 248240
Click to expand...

marjon said:
I get 920mm bottom and middle and 915mm top because of the 2 corner plates.

You are talking of the big door and not the flap type?
J
Click to expand...

Ditto 920 Bottom/915 Top
 
neilp1 said:
I’m replacing lots of my rear tub and made the cardinal sin of not taking the measurements at the rear.
Can someone do me a big favour and measure the rear door opening in 3 places as shown in the photo. Mine is 10mm bigger at top. I did have it pulled in at top but sprang when I removed clamp.

thanks in advance
View attachment 248240
Click to expand...

I wouldn’t worry about the measurements to be honest. I had mine jigged up, and it still sprang and flexed when I removed the straps/string, clamps, and wood.
upload_2021-9-19_7-50-38.jpeg


The rear crossmember will keep the rear end relatively straight and pull out most of the misalignment, the tub sides and roof will do the rest.
 
v8250 said:
Crikey @mick 1986 , that's some dedication you have there...building LR's in the snow! o_O
Click to expand...

It was a case of “needs, must”. I needed the defender back on the road as we were down to one car, so getting it finished was the only way. You can sort of see in the photo how packed down the snow is at that point. It was around 9-10” when it first came down. It didn’t really stop me, just slowed things down a little.

I was finishing nightshift at 0720, home for 0830, showered and working on the rebuild for 0900-0915ish. It was like that for 6 months as I tried to get it back on the road ASAP. I wouldn’t change it, but I wouldn’t do it again. The amount of times I looked for a specific spanner or socket size, only to find it in my hand or right in front of me, was silly.
 
[QUOTE="mick 1986, post: 5237944, member: 49926" It was like that for 6 months as I tried to get it back on the road ASAP. I wouldn’t change it, but I wouldn’t do it again. [/QUOTE]

Ha, I wonder how many of us have been like this with our projects? Years ago I got fed up with tinkering outside in the wet/colder months and with no more garage space discovered car tents. Now on my third tent kitted out with good solid flooring, electrical lighting, power sockets and mobile electrical heaters for when it's very cold. It's completely damp free as use a few layers of dpm under a marine ply floor - it's a nice place to be. All this will change next year as planning a new oak car port/garage for the Defender.
 
Cheers guys
I get 922mm at the bottom and +10mm at the top but as said hopefully this will pull in once the sides/roof are fitted
 
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