Has anyone any ideas what could have happened here? was working fine. I can hear a click in the rear window area when the switch on the console is operated??

Just took it for its MOT and seems it don`t work after it? Coincidence or what?

Any ideas how to get this door open? could a fuse have blown?

The problem is the window.

When you operate the handle to open the back door you actually operate a switch. This signals to the Central Control unit (CCU), which first instructs the window to drop a shade, a switch in the motor assembly indicates that the window has dropped. The CCU uses this switch signal to stop the window decent and then to operate the door latch release solenoid to open the door. The window must drop before the door latch is released so the lack of window movement also stops the door opening.

The Central Control Unit located behind the in-car fuse box is responsible for controlling the back door. The window is actually driven by a relay cluster, which I think is located near the rear light cluster on the drivers side behind the trim panel. This receives power that it uses to drive the window by way of Fuse 31 in the in-car fuse box. This is the first thing to check. As you can hear a click in the back of the car then the realy is at least operating. While this doesn't discount the relay as the problem it is a very good sign that the CCU is healthy.

If all is well with Fuse 31 then things get interesting. In order to investigate the problem you need to get the rear door open. To do that you need to get the window down, which you can't do without motor control, therefore to do that you need to get into the rear door interior and identify the problem or get the window to drop at the least.

First you need to get the back seats down and clear the boot space. Get in the boot and (warning volience) rip the interior panel off. There are three screws holding it on at the bottom but they are not accessable with the door closed. However, if you get your fingers between the base of the glass and the trim panel you can pull the panel off so that it drops down without damage.

Now you have access to the interior of the door you will be surprised by the number of wires in there. There are two wires that you need to identify. They are both thicker wires and one is Blue / Black, the other is Blue / Green. You need to inject a DC voltage across these two wires. Needless to say you shouldn't cut these wires, just break through the insulation. I recommend using two PP3 9V batteries in series (18v). This voltage is high but these batteries can't deliver enough current to cause damage. When the voltage is applied the window motor (if healthy) will energise. If the battery is connected the wrong way round then nothing will happen as the window will try to close, therefore reverse your connections. With luck the window will start to drop. Allow it to drop a couple if inches only, otherwise it gets in the way inside the door.

Now, disconnect your batteries and operate the door release, you should then have an open door.

Now you have full access to investigate the condition of the motor and the relay. Sadly, with the door open the window is disabled so you'll have to close it again if you wish to test your work.

It is the most wonderful design and god help you if the door release solenoid fails as I can not see any way of releasing the door, sort of drilling the lock so to destroy it.

If you feel up to this investigation then by all means keep us up-to-date on here. We'll help where we can and it will serve as a good record for others with the same problem.

Good luck,

Dave

I have now opened the door by applying 9V to the door motor. I was able to get at all 4 screws with a screw driver.

The rear window will not work, either with the console switch nor any other method, but the window motor does try and turn. I can hear the motor click. I removed the window motor cover, and can turn the motor armature. It seems that the windows always wants to go up. If I wind it down manualy, when I hit the switch of the door handle it always wants to go up.

I have the whole door apart, window regulator is out, door locking mechanism is out, rear window is out....... Matches will be out

Is there just one micro switch in the tailgate handle?

Iv`ve had the window regulator apart to see whats in there:

The Armature:



The connecting plug, pins 3+6 will move the motor up or down when 12v applied.



Inside the black Brushes casing on the armature, this seems to have some window position sensing components inside it.



This is one of those sensing components, it points to a magneting ring around the armature. Has A07 stamped on the back, 3 legs on it.



Another shot of components inside black casing:



This guy puzzles me? what component is it, it runs in series with one of the motor brushes? so you have motor brush-this component-to pin 3 on plug. Could it be a current overload trip sensor?? It reads short when measured as you would expect, but I wonder whether when the motor stops as window is up, it goes open circuit ???



I think my problems started with the rear window, it would go down ok with the console switch, but when going up from the down position, if I did not hold the switch in untill it got to the top, it would go all the way down again on its own.

I hav`nt checked the relays, I did`nt know about them untill now.

However I did loose fit every thing and it all worked for a while them stopped.

Will look again tomorrow as its too dark now.

Its probably a thermistor. If the motor draws too much current the device self heats, which causes its resistance to increase, reducing the voltage across the armature.

BTW, good work so far.

Hmmmmmm! I dunno whats going on with this, it has me stummped, every now and then the rear tailgate window will work as it should. Then just stops working for good.

The rear door now opens whether the window regulator is plugged in or not, so I suppose this is a bonus, so the CCU must think the window is down, or in the correct position.?? to release the door.

I have checked the 2 relays behind the RHS trim and as far as I can tell they are ok, I have even swapped these around with each other just to see if there was any difference... I can here them click also.

I have just followed this proceedure, and now when i press down on the console switch, I get 4 beeps which were not there before.....

1. Could this be my window regulator not sending back the correct position to the CCU of where it is??

2. Do I have other CCU controller problems?

The problem is your rear window need recalibrating. The easiest way to do this is to disconnect the battery for 10 seconds, then reconnect. The window 'should' fully open by itself. Now from the drivers seat, fully closing it. Job done.

yes your are probably right, a combination of not having the tailgate shut, the motor casing in the wrong way round, and the calibration procedure I only today found if rave, maybe the motor sensor too..... but its all working now.

It probably just needed calibrating, but I`ve gone the long way round and had everything out of the door, O well at least every thing is greased up now. Iand i now know may way around a Hippo back door...Ooo errrr!!!

if anyone has similar problems try this 1st , taken from rave.

Tail Door Window Raise
If the rear screen wiper is selected on when the tail door window is raised, the CCU will start/ resume operation of the
wiper once the window is closed.
Tail Door Key Barrel Raise: With the tail door closed and, on 3 door models the roof closed/on, turning and holding
the key in the tail door key barrel will signal the CCU to raise the tail door window. The key must be held until the
window is fully raised (stalled position). If the key is released before the window is fully raised, the raise signal is
removed from the CCU and the window will be fully lowered.
Console Switch Raise: With the ignition on, the tail door closed and, on 3 door models the roof closed/on, pressing
the console switch in the up position will signal the CCU to raise the tail door window. The switch must be pressed
until the window is fully raised (stalled position). If the switch is released before the window is fully raised, the raise
signal is removed from the CCU and the window will be fully lowered.
Motor Timeout
To protect the tail door window motor from damage, the motor outputs have a fail-safe inhibit relative to the window
height. This prevents the motor from being overdriven. If the fail-safe limit is reached, the CCU will energise the tail
window down relay, to fully lower the window, and change the window position setting to uncalibrated. The calibration
procedure will need to be performed to restore normal tail door window operation.
Tail Door Window Open Warning
If the tail door window is calibrated and open and, on 3 door models the roof is closed/on, and a lock request is made
from the remote handset or the driver's door key barrel, the CCU will sound an audible miss-lock warning to advise
that the window is open. The window can be closed using either the console switch or the tail door key barrel.
Calibration
When the CCU is changed from transit mode to a valid market mode, and after the vehicle battery has been
disconnected, the tail door window must be calibrated to provide the CCU with a window position datum. When the
CCU mode is changed to a valid market, or the battery reconnected, the CCU automatically begins the calibration
process by energising the down contacts in the tail window lift relay until the window motor stalls, to ensure the window
is fully down. The calibration procedure is completed as follows:
1 Ensure the tail door is closed, the vehicle unlocked and the alarm disarmed.
2 On 3 door models, ensure the roof is on (hard back) or lowered and secured (soft back).
3 With the ignition on, use the console switch, or the vehicle key in the tail door lock, to raise the window until the
motor stalls with the window fully closed.
4 Switch off the ignition.
If the calibration procedure is unsuccessful, the CCU will sound a warning for approximately 0.8 second and fully lower
the window.
Tail door window calibration can fail for the following reasons:
l Window stops before minimum travel is achieved.
l Window does not achieve a stall.
l Window request removed before stall is achieved.
l Tail door opened while driving window up.

First thing to check is the cables driving the window. That was my problem to start with and just got worse when I fitted a faulty new rear window mechanism. Ended up costing £900 to find out the new mechanism was indeed faulty!

Blimey!!!! :screaming_bug_eye_f