BoxCleva

New Member

• Jul 14, 2010

• #1

Hi , as per the title .

Trying to remove the O/S/R spring and the bolt that goes through the front shackle snags on the tank. Has someone put it in the wrong way or do I have to raise/lower the fuel tank to get this bolt out

Obviously I could cut it off, just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something obvious.

Cheers

 

oxides

Well-Known Member

• Jul 14, 2010

• #2

I think the nuts go on the inside - they are on mine and it's what the parts catalogue shows.

 

BoxCleva

New Member

• Jul 14, 2010

• #3

oxides said:

I think the nuts go on the inside - they are on mine and it's what the parts catalogue shows.

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Really? Surprised that Haynes don't mention the need to move the tank out of the way. I'll cut the bugger off then

 

Bump

Well-Known Member

Events Planner

• Jul 14, 2010

• #4

just don't slip with the grinder...

 

BoxCleva

New Member

• Jul 14, 2010

• #5

MikeDowson said:

just don't slip with the grinder...

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OUch! No , was definitely going to use a hack saw on this one. Don't how long it takes. Just put £20 of unleaded in it as well

 

Spyderman

New Member

• Jul 14, 2010

• #6

MikeDowson said:

just don't slip with the grinder...

Click to expand...

Use the gas torch instead.

 

Bump

Well-Known Member

Events Planner

• Jul 15, 2010

• #7

BoxCleva said:

Just put £20 of unleaded in it as well

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Ahh... just enough to get you to the next petrol station i see...

 

discobill

Active Member

• Jul 15, 2010

• #8

If you need a replacement bolt let me know.... I'm breaking my swb Series 3 so I've still got most bits available.

 

BoxCleva

New Member

• Jul 15, 2010

• #9

MikeDowson said:

Ahh... just enough to get you to the next petrol station i see...

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Yeah and it's only 5 miles away

If you need a replacement bolt let me know.... I'm breaking my swb Series 3 so I've still got most bits available.

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Yes please. Let me know how much you want and where to send the dosh

While I am here can anyone tell me if there are after market brackets/clamps to replace the ones in the pics. I can make my own up but wasnt sure what an MOT tester would make of that

 

oxides

Well-Known Member

• Jul 15, 2010

• #10

If the clamps are that badly corroded that they won't pass an MOT then the springs will be buggered too. Put new springs on!

 

BoxCleva

New Member

• Jul 15, 2010

• #11

oxides said:

If the clamps are that badly corroded that they won't pass an MOT then the springs will be buggered too. Put new springs on!

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The clamps aren't corroded, well not to excess. It's that you have to grind the old ones off. They dont unscrew, hence my question. Went into a local Landy specialist today and he told me to make some myself out of some flat bar.

 

BoxCleva

New Member

• Jul 17, 2010

• #12

Ok, so here is what the rear springs looked like before, with an after piccy below. I know a lot of you would have just binned them , but at over a £100 for a pair of rear springs it seemed worth the grief.

After a lot of grinding and polishing.

I was worried that they would be misshaped, but they seem fine. Lots of grease between the leaves and just need to make some clamps

 

fenby1976

New Member

• Jul 18, 2010

• #13

oxides said:

If the clamps are that badly corroded that they won't pass an MOT then the springs will be buggered too. Put new springs on!

Click to expand...

I've found that new standard springs are made of cheese. I bought a new set of rear springs, fitted them and the vehicle ended up lopsided. I say if old springs are not sagging and are sitting level, keep em.