All relays back in and battery disconnected and on charge. I'll check readings tomorrow lunchtime. One thing I did notice when disconnecting the battery was the clamp on the negative terminal, while not slack, wasn't exactly tight. I'll get the clamps changed once the battery problem is solved.
Use a screwdriver to prise them open, they will then slip on to the terminal further and you'll be able to tighten them
I used a bit of copper pipe as a spacer for MrGorsky's battery. It fit inside the clamp quite nicely with a bit of fettling.
Results of testing over the weekend:
Battery disconnected, relays in......charged overnight to 12.7V. Dropped to 11.2V after 6 hours.
Battery disconnected, relays out.......charged overnight to 12.7V Dropped to 11.2V after 6 hours.
Battery connected, relays in........would only charge to 10.5V Dropped to 10.1V after 4 hours.
Advise needed and welcomed.
Battery disconnected, relays in......charged overnight to 12.7V. Dropped to 11.2V after 6 hours.
Battery disconnected, relays out.......charged overnight to 12.7V Dropped to 11.2V after 6 hours.
Battery connected, relays in........would only charge to 10.5V Dropped to 10.1V after 4 hours.
Advise needed and welcomed.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
If the battery dropped to 11.2 volts after 6 hours whilst disconnected, the battery is knackered.
I don't know the output of your charger, but more than 24 hours may be needed to fully charge the battery and the voltage should rise to more than 12.7 volts, it should settle to 12.7 about 1 hour after coming off charge.
If the battery is completely disconnected it make no difference whether the relays are in or out.
Battery's knackered.
A very rough guide to battery state: www.thebatteryshop.co.uk/car-battery-voltage-guide-34-w.asp
When it was connected did you check to see if the heated screens were hot?
I didn't think to check the screens but I will tomorrow....... then order a new battery.
On the subject of ordering a new battery, I've been online to order the Hancook, as that was recommended on here for me last time, and I can't find one anywhere. What other makes are recommended? I want a good battery that will hopefully last a bit longer than my last two.
BatteryMegastore shows out of stock for the usual MF31-1000
This site shows an alternative, but spec needs checking. https://batteryfactory.co.uk/produc...rter-battery-12v-ah115-cold-cranking-1000amps
On my other P38 due to LPG ECU, I had to find a slightly smaller battery. Got this one https://www.batterymegastore.co.uk/product/type-334-hankook-car-battery/ Seems to hold charge well & start car even after sitting for several weeks.
This site shows an alternative, but spec needs checking. https://batteryfactory.co.uk/produc...rter-battery-12v-ah115-cold-cranking-1000amps
On my other P38 due to LPG ECU, I had to find a slightly smaller battery. Got this one https://www.batterymegastore.co.uk/product/type-334-hankook-car-battery/ Seems to hold charge well & start car even after sitting for several weeks.
Flossie
Well-Known Member
Ref loose battery terminal(s), I took the T bolt and nut plus cone thing off and ran a 1mm slitting disc in a grinder to open up the split. This allowed it to close up more when tightening the nut. If you look at the clamp when it's tightened up you will probably see that the sides of the split are touching and can't close up anymore to clamp the terminal.
The earth lead has two fixings along its length, one goes to the engine, that's easy to spot , the other is bolted down by the inner wing under the ecu/fusebox area. Take it off and clean the earth contact points. You can do all that whilst waiting for the new battery
The earth lead has two fixings along its length, one goes to the engine, that's easy to spot , the other is bolted down by the inner wing under the ecu/fusebox area. Take it off and clean the earth contact points. You can do all that whilst waiting for the new battery
On the subject of ordering a new battery, I've been online to order the Hancook, as that was recommended on here for me last time, and I can't find one anywhere. What other makes are recommended? I want a good battery that will hopefully last a bit longer than my last two.
On a P38A the Platinum 642X.
Salisbury Nick
Well-Known Member
True by definition, you choose to drive a p38. Sanity out the window, obsessive, compulsive irrational attachment now the new norm. Welcome to the specific mad house and 19th layer of hell reserved for us.Long gone!
Salisbury Nick
Well-Known Member
Yes it’s true, like variable reward gambling, e.g. slot machines, sometimes you win big - for example that incredible thrill when it starts in the morning - and sometimes… you don’t… but i’m addicted either way!True very true BUT its fun though
Definitely a bit of a gamble.....just paid £164 for a battery.
Feck...pls check the alternator charging voltage too. Cd be that the alternator is bad, or just needs an uprated Voltage Regulator (just 20 quid...) and grab youself a little voltage reader thingy off ebay to go in the cigar lighter socketDefinitely a bit of a gamble.....just paid £164 for a battery.
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Took car to auto electrician today. Alternator fine. They’ve found a 50 amp fuse under the bonnet that’s creating a massive drain continuously and appears to do nothing. . If the car starts tomorrow and everything seems ok I’ll leave it out but has anyone heard/seen anything like this? The sparky says the only thing he’s seen like it was on a BMW engine and it was a heater.
