Forgotthelandinggear
Member
Thanks for replying! I’ve linked the panel in my original post and here’s a pic of the actual damage. I’m fairly certain it’s purely cosmetic but it would be nice to know how easy it would be to rectify in the future
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Forgotthelandinggear
Member
Had a feeling that might be the case. If I were to go and look at this what else should I watch out for other than taking a hammer to the chassis. It’s a 1990 110 (not defender) with 12 seats. From the pictures it looks like the rear cross member has been replaced, how do I know this has been done well? I’ve driven a 2008 puma 90 so know what one of those handles like, is there much difference?
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If it’s been replaced you should be able to identify a welded join down each side of the chassis, if it had legs most seem too these days.
A receipt would help too
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Good luck with the viewing, don’t rush in with your (well you know what) if you have any concerns take pics and comeback and ask.
The list of what to look out for could be endless.
J
A receipt would help too
.Good luck with the viewing, don’t rush in with your (well you know what) if you have any concerns take pics and comeback and ask.
The list of what to look out for could be endless.
J
Forgotthelandinggear
Member
Thank you! I’ll keep that in mind haha, not got my heart set on it so will make sure to thorough
1990 110 will either have had or will need quite a bit of work doing.
The rear x-member is just the start to be honest.
Doors, A, B and C pillars
Bulkhead
Floors
Seat box
Are the light cluster/rear cappings galvanised or painted.
The rear section that's all bent could be straightened as best as and then a bit of filler and a repaint.
You can tidy the bottom edges by fitting some rear corner chequer plates.
Fitting the whole panel is a big job (as everyone has said).
The rear x-member is just the start to be honest.
Doors, A, B and C pillars
Bulkhead
Floors
Seat box
Are the light cluster/rear cappings galvanised or painted.
The rear section that's all bent could be straightened as best as and then a bit of filler and a repaint.
You can tidy the bottom edges by fitting some rear corner chequer plates.
Fitting the whole panel is a big job (as everyone has said).
The 110 is essentially pretty much the same as the Puma but also quite different. No creature comforts in a 110 and it will be quite slow.
Shippers
Well-Known Member
Many many alloy spot welds to drill out and then unless you have spot welder for alloy your stuffed also when alloy is bashed it expands and is hard to dolly back as you have to shrink it if it was steel easy just put some cuts in it then dolly up and then weld or cut and weld in a patch but not easy with alloy...Been there still doing it...
Forgotthelandinggear
Member
Perfect
Welcome.
Definitely would not bother with replacing the side panel for a minor bump like that. I also would not "tidy it up" with chequer plate as it looks horrible in my opinion, like someone is trying to hide something. Land Rover Series/90/110 look fine with a bit of character.
Chassis, bulkhead and the station wagon sills are places to concentrate your attention. Especially around the panel between the rear wheelarches and the rear of the second row doors are key rot spots due to crud thrown up by the wheel. Open the rear side doors and look at the bottom rail and where it angles upward toward the rear. Look particularly for bodged repairs in this area. Proper repairs are viable but time-consuming and need someone who knows what they are doing to get door gaps correct etc.
Definitely would not bother with replacing the side panel for a minor bump like that. I also would not "tidy it up" with chequer plate as it looks horrible in my opinion, like someone is trying to hide something. Land Rover Series/90/110 look fine with a bit of character.
Chassis, bulkhead and the station wagon sills are places to concentrate your attention. Especially around the panel between the rear wheelarches and the rear of the second row doors are key rot spots due to crud thrown up by the wheel. Open the rear side doors and look at the bottom rail and where it angles upward toward the rear. Look particularly for bodged repairs in this area. Proper repairs are viable but time-consuming and need someone who knows what they are doing to get door gaps correct etc.
Forgotthelandinggear
Member
I agree, not a fan of chequer plate personally
This was another area of concern actually, on the same side as the crumpled panel, the door sill seems to sit slightly weirdly
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meego
Well-Known Member
I think I would walk away from that vehicle. Defender’s aren’t know for pristine panel alignment from new, but the fact the panel has been hit, and that door and frame look the way they do, it could have been T Boned and not straightened properly on a jig.
Forgotthelandinggear
Member
Yeah my thoughts exactly, that and the MOT history looking really weird does not inspire confidence. If I were more experienced I would potentially take it on as a project however considering it would be my first landy then I’m not looking to get too deep into things.
Cant see the pic in a big version. But
As said ^^^
I would also add when and why was the rear crossmember replaced, was it after a ding that made the rear panel look like that.
The big problem is cos they are strong damage can travel down and push other things out.
So either many questions when viewed and a dam good look underneath (know what you are looking at helps) or walk away and find another.
Of course all of this may well be 2+2 = 5.
J
As said ^^^
I would also add when and why was the rear crossmember replaced, was it after a ding that made the rear panel look like that.
The big problem is cos they are strong damage can travel down and push other things out.
So either many questions when viewed and a dam good look underneath (know what you are looking at helps) or walk away and find another.
Of course all of this may well be 2+2 = 5.
J
