W

westone

Active Member
During my attempts to replace a rear door actuator I noticed the steel channel which supports the glass had rusted very badly....Bit worried glass might fall out.

I put two coats of Kurust on it, but been hoping to get a spare or two one for each side.

Part numbers are MTC9273 and MTC 9274. Does anyone know a source please?
I found an old posting on here saying a company called TP4X4 made them, but i never got a reply to my enquiry's assume that means no...JLR do not make them anymore.They are the same on P38 I am told.
bB great if anyone knows a source.
cheers
 
westone said:
During my attempts to replace a rear door actuator I noticed the steel channel which supports the glass had rusted very badly....Bit worried glass might fall out.

I put two coats of Kurust on it, but been hoping to get a spare or two one for each side.

Part numbers are MTC9273 and MTC 9274. Does anyone know a source please?
I found an old posting on here saying a company called TP4X4 made them, but i never got a reply to my enquiry's assume that means no...JLR do not make them anymore.They are the same on P38 I am told.
bB great if anyone knows a source.
cheers
Click to expand...
I done mine recently. Made new brackets from stainless steel sheet as the old ones were almost completely gone. Rubbed down the complete frame and painted in Satin Black.
 
Thank you.I tried following up on this from an old post, but no reply yet.It maybe .I will try again.
 
meego said:
I done mine recently. Made new brackets from stainless steel sheet as the old ones were almost completely gone. Rubbed down the complete frame and painted in Satin Black.
Click to expand...

That sounds a good job.I could not do that ,i can weld mild steel, but the original metal what's left of it seems very thin.I thought about brass and silver soldering the brackets as an alternative.

Its a bit odd as rest of window is good...car is a jap import just assume that bit of metal gets very wet or is just a bit poor?
 
westone said:
That sounds a good job.I could not do that ,i can weld mild steel, but the original metal what's left of it seems very thin.I thought about brass and silver soldering the brackets as an alternative.

Its a bit odd as rest of window is good...car is a jap import just assume that bit of metal gets very wet or is just a bit poor?
Click to expand...
It wasn’t that hard. It’s only a ledge really to stop the window slipping down. The original one is a U channel that traps the water and that’s why they rust away to nothing. I used an old cooker hood cowel for the stainless. Cut and bent it with a tab at either end with holes drilled in them. The fixings are short set screws into captive nuts.
 
Thank you...that gives me a some encouragemnent. I am going to have a go at it.I think with out intervention the window will fall away.
Need to find some stuff.I think I have L brass channel .
 
westone said:
Thank you...that gives me a some encouragemnent. I am going to have a go at it.I think with out intervention the window will fall away.
Need to find some stuff.I think I have L brass channel .
Click to expand...
I also found mine badly rusted but hadn't got around to looking for replacements. I covered them with grease to try to slow the rusting process, but it looks like I will have to fabricate new also.
 
I am going to use brass as I have some in my garage,.......... still waiting for my replacement latch from my oath posting....been over 2 weeks now...JLR are not good in this situation.
I hope they do not send me the same one. as before...I checked inside the door with my camera and by feel, on the original the connecting rod is tight even at rest, with the new one its slack with no way to tighten up.... I will update on both.
 
Well here we go not the best job in the world but the glass will not slip now.I was able to re use the brackets by drilling out the spot welds.

That was very hard welds, used a starter drill and then very sharp drills.

I think for the next one I will make new brackets from brass as it would be easier.
The channel is 165mm long if anyone is making one and about 12mm wide.Difficult to be precise on width due to rust.

I used 1.5mm brass as I had some and put it in bending bars and applied a big hammer.I used inner tube rubber to line it as the seal is no longer available.
Its painted now with etch primer and Matt black.

I was told you can buy made up ones for £50-£60 pair which is a lot for what they are.
You could use most metals to make them up like a bit of galvanise sheet folded up,I only used the brass as it was all I had, It was tough going bending it .should not rust.!

65ACF946-4E1A-4F80-80A1-60774681EA72.jpeg
3636AE23-25A7-4745-B0A4-CC2AFDD680E4.jpeg
 
Last edited:
westone said:
Well here we go not the best job in the world but the glass will not slip now.I was able to re use the brackets by drilling out the spot welds.

That was very hard welds, used a starter drill and then very sharp drills.

I think for the next one I will make new brackets from brass as it would be easier.
The channel is 165mm long if anyone is making one and about 12mm wide.Difficult to be precise on width due to rust.

I used 1.5mm brass as I had some and put it in bending bars and applied a big hammer.I used inner tube rubber to line it as the seal is no longer available.
Its painted now with etch primer and Matt black.

I was told you can buy made up ones for £50-£60 pair which is a lot for what they are.
You could use most metals to make them up like a bit of galvanise sheet folded up,I only used the brass as it was all I had, It was tough going bending it .should not rust.!

View attachment 243426 View attachment 243427
Click to expand...
That looks ideal. Mine were in a far worse state than yours. The rust was travelling up the frame and visible above the window waist seal.
 
Yes they were I found a posting on Facebook for them referring to e bay.I could not find them on e bay.I was promised a call back about them 10 days ago from a chap who made them I was told and that did not happen.
So took inspiration from folk on this thread and made one up.
 
Aren't you concerned about the unseen side of those rivets against the glass? It's a tidy way of fixing the problem but i think i would have either rivetted from the glass side using countersunk rivets or used some short countersunk M5 or M4 set screws. I wouldn't want the chance of metal sitting against glass, especially considering the terrain i drive over.
At some point i'm going to have to have a look at both of mine as my D2 is a Commercial and i want to swap the non see through rear windows with some tinted ones and i'll have to replace both of the quarter windows as they're cracked on both doors.
 
Not concerned at all as I put on my posting(see above) the inside of the channel has rubber motorcycle inner tube cut in strips and glued with evo stick.
So the rivets have no glass contact at all. You cannot buy the original seal.

I did file the rivets on the inside a bit as well just because eI thought I would.I did not need to really as the channel is tapered slightly as i think the original was.

In my pictures on the posting I had not glued in the rubber as did that after painting.

I think next one i make will be all brass and silver solder in place.
 
westone said:
Not concerned at all as I put on my posting(see above) the inside of the channel has rubber motorcycle inner tube cut in strips and glued with evo stick.
So the rivets have no glass contact at all. You cannot buy the original seal.

I did file the rivets on the inside a bit as well just because eI thought I would.I did not need to really as the channel is tapered slightly as i think the original was.

In my pictures on the posting I had not glued in the rubber as did that after painting.

I think next one i make will be all brass and silver solder in place.
Click to expand...

I saw you had used inner tube. Good idea! Although i believe the normal window runner rubber is still available if you wanted to use that but in my experience sharp bits of metal can wear through rubber...
Did you know you can buy countersunk rivets? If you are making the channel up yourself you could drill the holes and rivet the bracket in place before making up the channel. Or if you found channel of the right size and material remove a section to allow access for the rivetter

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322994609538?hash=item4b33fa9d82:g:okUAAOSwKXdaV-l0
 
westone said:
Well here we go not the best job in the world but the glass will not slip now.I was able to re use the brackets by drilling out the spot welds.

That was very hard welds, used a starter drill and then very sharp drills.

I think for the next one I will make new brackets from brass as it would be easier.
The channel is 165mm long if anyone is making one and about 12mm wide.Difficult to be precise on width due to rust.

I used 1.5mm brass as I had some and put it in bending bars and applied a big hammer.I used inner tube rubber to line it as the seal is no longer available.
Its painted now with etch primer and Matt black.

I was told you can buy made up ones for £50-£60 pair which is a lot for what they are.
You could use most metals to make them up like a bit of galvanise sheet folded up,I only used the brass as it was all I had, It was tough going bending it .should not rust.!

View attachment 243426 View attachment 243427
Click to expand...
Thinking outside the box, you could do away with using metal altogether, and use plastic. You'd have to modify/fabricate the two brackets. You could use plastic for the flat bracket on the left, drilled and bonded to the channel, and if you used a piece of angle with the top side removed leaving the verticalface paralel with the channel face you could bolt it to the frame and then bond it to the channel, or H section.

Joining Strips | H Section(10 pack) for 4mm Polycarbonate Sheets | 610mm+1000mm | eBay

OK you wouldn't want a pack of ten sections and not knowing how thick the window glass is, maybe just a squirt of sealant into the bottom of the channel would stick the channel to the glass without the need for any rubber.

Just a thought... :)

window bracket.jpg


Just take a piece of angle, drill the hole or make a slot and then remove the section above coloured in red and then bond the bracket to the channel on the face arrowed. Using modern adhesives should give a lasting bond. I'm still not fully over having to glue four lengths of all thread into a concrete ceiling onto which we suspended a 90KG condensing unit in the kitchens at Sheffield University back in the 90s. I've not been brought before a judge to explain myself after one of the nice old ladies that worked there got flattened, so i assume it's still hanging there!
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

RustyDefender
Rear quarter glass
Replies
8
Views
951
110Matty
1
M
Rear Quarter Window Replacement
Replies
4
Views
960
dag019
dag019
Gunter Shingleditch
Freelander random tailgate problems SOLVED with CCU replacement
Replies
3
Views
2K
andyfreelandy
andyfreelandy
Nodge68
Freelander 2 (LR2) LR trouble codes.
Replies
6
Views
34K
Keith Kernow Kernewick
Keith Kernow Kernewick
Irishrover
Disco 3 (LR3) TDV6, Auto,2008-EPB Actuator removal
2
Replies
25
Views
9K
gstuart
gstuart