RikWilson

RikWilson

New Member
Hi There,

Saw this 1992 LAND ROVER 90 DEFENDER 200 TDI GALVANISED CHASSIS on eBay (end time 18-Dec-10 15:57:08 GMT) on ebay the other day, and want to perform the same modification my my defender.
If you look at the pics, the rear of the truck they have fitted extra tail/stop lights and indicators to the top of the rear cab.
As soon as I saw it I wanted to do it as I think it looks great.
So, I bought an extra pair of indicators and stop/tail lights for £20 and thought I would have a go at it, but am not too sure how.
I am pretty sure I can just attach the cables from the current lights and run the through the current lights, but am worried it may not be that simple.

Any ideas of how to do this would be great, the bits im currently struggling to get my head around are where to take the feeds from, if its from the cables connecting to the current lights, how would you go about getting the cables into the vehicle to connect to the new lights, or is there another place I can get to the necessary cables to connect to?

Is it just a case of connecting to the current cabling with snap lock type connectors, or is it not that easy...

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
wiring in is pretty easy run your new wires from the original lamps i would avoid using scotch locks but you could use them if you liked


then you just need to drill four 25mm holes in the roof panels to put the lamps through and drill 3 holes around them to screw the lamps too........ making sure the drain hole on the lamp is facing down
 
Thanks g-man. Would you solder the connection from the current lamps then?
Also, as the lighting cables are outside the truck, how would I go about getting these cables to the inside? I guess I drill a hole and use a grommet, but where would you suggest the holes go?
 
They never, ever last. They'll work for a while then slowly but surely you'll get dodgy connections, things will fail, short out, etc.

Do it properly - solder joints with heatshrink insulation :)
 
instantsquid said:
They never, ever last. They'll work for a while then slowly but surely you'll get dodgy connections, things will fail, short out, etc.

Do it properly - solder joints with heatshrink insulation :)
Click to expand...

Thanks. I'll solder and heat shrink. Got a load of heat shrink so finally have a use for it. Only one problem left, how to get the cables through?
 
instantsquid said:
They never, ever last. They'll work for a while then slowly but surely you'll get dodgy connections, things will fail, short out, etc.

Do it properly - solder joints with heatshrink insulation :)
Click to expand...

i wouldn't solder them i would use heat shrink crimp terminals as solder tends to crack and cause resistance in high vibration areas such as landrovers plus you are more likely to thermally damage the wire its self its why all major motor manufacturers won't use solder anymore the solder joints break up over time

(VW had massive problems with solder joints behind the dash of some of there cars and if you solder the joints when fitting accessories you automatically void all warranty related to electrical items i might still have the VAG in house memo somewhere amongst my dealer training manuals)
 
G-man said:
i wouldn't solder them i would use heat shrink crimp terminals as solder tends to crack and cause resistance in high vibration areas such as landrovers
Click to expand...

me radio has been working fer years, am sure that's not all crimped joints

soldering to a fixed point, with a flex might be a problem eventually - can't see that joining 2 floating wires together will be much of an issue ?
 
steve-o said:
You do know you can removed the covers on the INSIDE to get to all the wiring?
Click to expand...

Thought about that but the cover on the inside is riveted on. Mine used to be a pickup, now is a hard top from before I bought it. Would that make a difference? I've looked underneath the truck and can see the wires. Looking at where the tail lights are I didnt think they would lead to inside.
I will double check tomorrow are report back.
Are the lights not located under the wheel arch cover things? (raised bit to sides of the back inside)
 
What, outside the Landy? That's just asking for trouble - you'll never make decent waterproof connections that will last.
But if you trace that cable back inside the vehicle, you'll see where it is connected to the main loom - that's where you need to be!
 
Once ye take the covers off ye'll see where all the joints are. Ah'd use bullet connectors into the multi female thingies mesel';)
 
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