T

Trig

New Member
Landy noob in need of a bit of help please.

Ive been looking to get the rear floor repair kit from MPS (floor, supports and inner rear wings) to sort out the slight corrosion problem that these Disco's tend to have.

Ive already taken the boot floor out of mine and seen what I need to do with the supports and the floor section, but I havent really investigated the sections that go around the wing.

How are these sections fixed to the wheel arch tubs? Are they bonded on or welded?
 
I'd imagine they're spot welded and smeared with horrible sticky stuff to make sure they're water tight. you're probably better off patching them though as they're not seen.
 
The problem with trying to patch them is that there probably isn't much/any foot metal on the old sections to weld to
 
:rolleyes: I'm just starting to realise how much welding a landrover can need.

In that case, and assuming you can get hold of replacement pannels. If I were you I'd cut the old ones off, leaving the welded part behind so you've got a thicker bit to weld to, they'll sit slightly further out but I don't think it'll be obvious - finish off with a good thick coat of underseal inside the wheel arch and you'll be sorted.

In the past few days I've patched up both chassis rails, the boot floor, the nearside rear wheel arch and the offside sill. I've not looked at the front footwells yet or the nearside sill but I doubt I'm done to be honest.

Then I'm gonna change all the brakepipes because, except under the bonnet, they're rotten. then I'm on to looking at bushes and strip/clean/reassemble brakes and sort a couple of lights that are out - then I'll be crossing my fingers it passes!!

Is there any reason I cant take it with mud tyres on?
 
i took mine for mot with mud tyres on, and it passed, as long as its got the required minimum depth etc etc and the tyres have all the right speed ratings, etc you should be ok
 
Haha 20mm odd of tread, fail that ****er:D

dunno about speed ratings, worked in mot places but never heard
anything about that, might be one of those things that usually obviously
doesn't need checking though.
 
Just bear in mind that when they test your brakes, mud tyres won't give the same grip so might affect the brake test result?
 
Just to update this as when you search 'discovery rear inner wing floor' on google this is the second link.

The floor sections were spot welded on and then covered in seam sealer. I found the bedt way to remove the floor sections from around the wheel tub was to simply cut it, just a bit away from the bend in the sheet and then to grind that lip back so you should be left with nice clean and flat metal to butt your replacement panel up to.
 
Trig said:
I found the bedt way to remove the floor sections from around the wheel tub was to simply cut it, just a bit away from the bend in the sheet and then to grind that lip back so you should be left with nice clean and flat metal to butt your replacement panel up to.
Click to expand...

:nopics:

Would be grateful if you've got pics of how you did it as I've got to do mine too.

Thanks.
 
Richard Martin said:
Did take you six months to do the welding? There must have been lots and lots of rust :)
Click to expand...

Not six, but four, its an unloved D1, so more rust than steel.

SteveB, I think I took a few, cant promise too much though, I will have a look when I get on photobucket tonight.
 
I managed to find the photos elsewhere. Make what you can of them, I didnt take them to document too much of the job, so they arent great to show what I needed to do.

You can see on some of them though the lip that runs round the bottom of the wheel tub, the wing floor sections kind of sit on this, so you do need to get close to the wheel tub.


a2244cc1.jpg


277d7568.jpg


00801799.jpg


1322465a.jpg



The part of the panel that runs front to back (under where the dickie seats bolt on), there is a few spots of weld along there. I just cut the old panel infront of the inner rear quarter and ground it back, which also gave me a handy spot for welding the new panel to. It did mean the new panel had to be slightly forced underneath the old bit.
 
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