Landshandy

Landshandy

Active Member
Hello,

Having returned from my Morocco trip my rear hub seems to be leaking oil/grease. Consequently I'm looking to replace it and before I started myself I was wondering how easy it is on a ballache scale of one to ten (I'll be researching YouTube) and also which manufacturer to go for. Lots say OEM but are £50 .

Hope you guys can help
 
Biggest issue as I see it ,

Is getting the nut off and then to tighten the thing.

Also for the nut, original is 32mm but some of the later ones appear to be bigger ( some say 36mm), so make sure you check what size you need.
Plus do not forget the loctite.
Then it gets tightened really really tight.

There is a section in the workshop manual about it.

Cheers
 
Good to hear you got there & back!
If its similar to the fronts, yes new nuts tend to be bigger.
My trick to getting mine undone was, remove wheel, unstake nut, refit wheel, lower car, apply handbrake/also chock if possible.
Then remove the centre cap from the wheel, a 32mm socket should pass through the hole allowing you to loosen the nut, then jack up and continue.
Refit is the reverse, BUT you may have to reuse your original 32mm nut or replace with a new 32mm nut, reason is that the socket for a 36mm will not fit through the centre hole in the wheel.
PS Are you going to post up pics etc of your trip?
Mark
 
There's tight, then there's wheel nut tight, then comes "FT". But then there's "Hub nut tight" which at 490 Nm (360 lbf.ft) comes in at just below "Sh*t, I've done me hernia again!"
Then they've got the nerve to tell you "The drive shaft nut must be tightened before the Loctite has cured." .... No shi-ite.
Good luck and welcome back. We did miss you, but by next time our aim will have improved :D
 
markomate2 said:
Good to hear you got there & back!
If its similar to the fronts, yes new nuts tend to be bigger.
My trick to getting mine undone was, remove wheel, unstake nut, refit wheel, lower car, apply handbrake/also chock if possible.
Then remove the centre cap from the wheel, a 32mm socket should pass through the hole allowing you to loosen the nut, then jack up and continue.
Refit is the reverse, BUT you may have to reuse your original 32mm nut or replace with a new 32mm nut, reason is that the socket for a 36mm will not fit through the centre hole in the wheel.
PS Are you going to post up pics etc of your trip?
Mark
Click to expand...

Cool cheers Mark, yeah I'll post pics shortly and even better some drone footage :)
 
brian47 said:
There's tight, then there's wheel nut tight, then comes "FT". But then there's "Hub nut tight" which at 490 Nm (360 lbf.ft) comes in at just below "Sh*t, I've done me hernia again!"
Then they've got the nerve to tell you "The drive shaft nut must be tightened before the Loctite has cured." .... No shi-ite.
Good luck and welcome back. We did miss you, but by next time our aim will have improved :D
Click to expand...

Ha ha having had two hernias recently this slightly worries me
 
I wandered across this monster for sale a few months ago...700Nm of torque wrench...

Bought it for when it is finally needed. Always being optimistic.....:p
 

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That's a baby- mines a 1000Nm cost £70 on eBay but used 5 times now!
Also need good bearing puller to remove hub from shaft.
Get new stake nuts from LR, right size and not too dear. Get brake disc retention screws too, they strip easy (also cheap)
Takes about an hour, very diy, follow guides and you'll do fine.
 
Into the realms of 3/4" drive stuff.

We changed a rear hub on son's D2, it fought us all the way getting the shaft out of the old bearing, mainly rust in the splines.

DIY job but you need the right tools.

Peter
 
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