neilly
Well-Known Member
Hi @brian47
That section, it is actually 2 "buttons" on the one page on the nanocom, one for windows the other for sunroof, is for disabling the use of the rear windows or sunroof after either the drivers door , all doors ( have been opened for 44 secs) or the ignition has been switched off.
Maybe it is worth @Karrier-Bag trying it with the drivers door and others all closed and the ignition on.
I was specifically looking for a switch off the rear windows to never work again output.
Cheers
That section, it is actually 2 "buttons" on the one page on the nanocom, one for windows the other for sunroof, is for disabling the use of the rear windows or sunroof after either the drivers door , all doors ( have been opened for 44 secs) or the ignition has been switched off.
Maybe it is worth @Karrier-Bag trying it with the drivers door and others all closed and the ignition on.
I was specifically looking for a switch off the rear windows to never work again output.
Cheers
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
the gist is in the bolded statement not a programming issue... no need to check anything from doors or switches backwards as long as you dont have 12V output from the relay cos the relay must close on ignition and the motors are managed through the switches,remove the relay and put bridge instead terminals 30-87 then try the windows, if they work this way the problem is with the IDM, if they dont work check for 12V in any console switch on the white/pink wire the report
brian47
Well-Known Member
@neilly
The one thing that drew me to that paragraph in the Nanocom book was the fact that @Karrier-Bag reported trouble with the rear sunroof too:-
"One thing I haven't found a common fault between which may shed some light on this, the rear sunroof switch also doesn't work though the front rear switch does, at first I thought common earth but it doesn't look like they do share it but they might share a 12v feed somewhere in the system".
Definitely worth another look methinks.
The one thing that drew me to that paragraph in the Nanocom book was the fact that @Karrier-Bag reported trouble with the rear sunroof too:-
"One thing I haven't found a common fault between which may shed some light on this, the rear sunroof switch also doesn't work though the front rear switch does, at first I thought common earth but it doesn't look like they do share it but they might share a 12v feed somewhere in the system".
Definitely worth another look methinks.
neilly
Well-Known Member
HI @brian47
I agree, worth a try, all doors closed ignition on. Plus I was wrong ( should not reply having just woken from a mid afternoon nap
), it is one "button" for rear windows / sunroof another for the front windows.
I just went and re programmed mine to switch off when keys are removed from ignition.
FYI, the reason I suggested it originally was worth a look was that he said it had been like it since he had attained the vehicle.
Cheers
I agree, worth a try, all doors closed ignition on. Plus I was wrong ( should not reply having just woken from a mid afternoon nap
), it is one "button" for rear windows / sunroof another for the front windows.I just went and re programmed mine to switch off when keys are removed from ignition.
FYI, the reason I suggested it originally was worth a look was that he said it had been like it since he had attained the vehicle.
Cheers
Hi all,
What would be the simplest way to allow the rear windows to work on a permanent live, ie: ignition on as well as ignition off?
Would this be done at the passenger fuse box or at the console switches?
Doing a camper conversion so would be an excellent feature to have.
What would be the simplest way to allow the rear windows to work on a permanent live, ie: ignition on as well as ignition off?
Would this be done at the passenger fuse box or at the console switches?
Doing a camper conversion so would be an excellent feature to have.
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
Bridge the window lift relay (R3 interior fusebox), that's all
Sweet, and thank you. I can find that relay, but how do I bridge exactly? =)
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
Remove it and make somehow to close the circuit across the perpendicular cavities(relay's contact) just make sure it's good contact there
Ahh, got you now. Connect pin 87 to pin 30 with a jumper wire with spade terminals. So simple. I'll give that a go!
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
spot on
So I just tried this and it works a charm! Window switches, console switches - working perfectly. Rear windows only, as expected. Thanks @sierrafery!
I'll make a better wire tomorrow but hopefully the attached is helpful to someone.
I'll make a better wire tomorrow but hopefully the attached is helpful to someone.
