There are some locations where I would now pay a premium for a higher grade oil seal, notabley the rear hubs, I began fitting a leather one, then a standard spec one, and now I have the £3 more green ones and its does seem better. My diff shaft seals and BP and doing fine but if they do weep a bit its not a huge issue, if the hub seals weep a bit its oily brakes and pulling to one side.
Blackburn
Well-Known Member
£2 extra for coreteco ones on ebay the time it takes to do the job it's worth the extra spend.
They are a good quality part.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FRC4586G...121185&hash=item2aaa20471d:g:h5EAAOSw1iNbCEeZ
They are a good quality part.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FRC4586G...121185&hash=item2aaa20471d:g:h5EAAOSw1iNbCEeZ
Gazbo
Well-Known Member
Better seals would be available, you just need OD, ID and thickness.
We just fitted a "modern" rear pinion shaft seal to my mates Series1 by skimming the flange sealing diameter we were able to fit a metric size seal, working fine now.
He got tired of the continual failure of the original hide seals, but part of the issue was the damage to the sealing surface of the pinion flange, there are engineering solutions to stop english vehicles pi5sing out all their oil, but it's a long row to hoe.
Bobsticle
De Villes Advocaat
Bobsticle
De Villes Advocaat
Just had a look at mine. Popped the flange off and there is a steel disc holding what looks like a leather seal behind it.
I quickly put the flange back on. Don’t like the look of that. Specially as the replacement one I have is a rubber thing with a spring round one end.
I quickly put the flange back on. Don’t like the look of that. Specially as the replacement one I have is a rubber thing with a spring round one end.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
it will prise out or use self tappers to give you something to prise againstIt looked oribly like the thing needed thrashing out from behind
I will need another flange before an attempt to replace the seal. It’s a bit pitted.
Bobsticle
De Villes Advocaat
On another note. How do you remove the prop shaft from the brake drum. Dis the drum have to come off.
I couldn’t even get at the nuts with mi little tool.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
9/16s spanner or the socket tool which fits if you turn yoke to suitable position, so allways jack a wheel of the ground so you can rotate it,drum doesnt need to come off
Bobsticle
De Villes Advocaat
Couldn’t get the damn thing in, but I didn’t go mad knowing I was leaving the old one on until the new drive flange arrives.
I’m sure it will go in once attacked with some hotspur.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
it needs to be thin walled or open ended spanner
Bobsticle
De Villes Advocaat
I’m sure I’ll manage it.
Replaced the front one no problem.
Webley1991
Well-Known Member
Should this one be suitable? I see that jamesmartin said in an earlier post that part number would be. To me this loks like it would be the preferable one as it doesn't have the raised lip.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OIL-SEAL...w=frc8220g&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313
As for removing the prop shaft nuts by the hand brake drum, after struggling with it once, I re fitted it with longer nuts. This looks like it will make it much easier to remove.
My plan for doing the seal is to only unbolt the propshaft at the differential end and tie it up out of the way with strapping.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OIL-SEAL...w=frc8220g&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313
As for removing the prop shaft nuts by the hand brake drum, after struggling with it once, I re fitted it with longer nuts. This looks like it will make it much easier to remove.
My plan for doing the seal is to only unbolt the propshaft at the differential end and tie it up out of the way with strapping.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
that seal will do its a later one i use
Webley1991
Well-Known Member
Now that the weather has cooled down, I tried to make a start on this job last Saturday. This was only to find that I was unable to undo the drive flange nut. This was with the rear wheels chocked with wooden blocks.
I will try again tomorrow with a crankshaft locking tool I made for another vehicle. This tool is two pieces of steel strip joined together by a bolt in a y shape with two holes at the ends. This woll the be bolted to the drive flange bolt holes. I am hoping I can lock this against the stack of leaf springs just forward of the rear axle.
The Land Rover repair manual says to put a smear of jointing compound around the outside diameter of the seal. I have never heard of this being done with an oil seal before. Is it really necessary?
I will try again tomorrow with a crankshaft locking tool I made for another vehicle. This tool is two pieces of steel strip joined together by a bolt in a y shape with two holes at the ends. This woll the be bolted to the drive flange bolt holes. I am hoping I can lock this against the stack of leaf springs just forward of the rear axle.
The Land Rover repair manual says to put a smear of jointing compound around the outside diameter of the seal. I have never heard of this being done with an oil seal before. Is it really necessary?
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
odd it is a rover type diff with castellated nut i presume
Webley1991
Well-Known Member
Yes it is a rover diff. I wonder if someone has tightened the castle nut with an impact wrench in the past.
Webley1991
Well-Known Member
I managed to undo the nut with the locking tool that I described. I see that the Land Rover official repair manual shows a similar tool for disassembly of the diff. I ended up lying on my side, holding the leaf spring and pushing on the 14" breaker bar with my foot. With the position of the leaf spring, it is difficult to get a good angle to turn the nut by hand.
I levered the old seal out with a large flat blade screwdriver wrapped in duct tape.
While the flange was off I checked the conditiong of the bearing. The bearing rollers looked a slightly dull, but there were no signs of excessive wear or scoring. There was no sign of lateral movement which says that the bearings are not excessively worn.
Unfortunately the better quality seal went in at an off angle when I tried to knock it in using a 46mm socket. There was no way to remove it without damaging it, so I ended up using the Britpart one after all.
Luckily the drive flage sealing surface was in good condition once I had polished it up with fine emery cloth, so I refitted it.
As a warning to anyone else attempting this job, the mud shield is push fitted onto the drive flange. I didn't have any tools with me to attempt to remove it without risk of bending it. The manual doesn't say anything about this as far as I could see.
Now I just have to re-connect the prop shaft and see if the leak has actually stopped.
I levered the old seal out with a large flat blade screwdriver wrapped in duct tape.
While the flange was off I checked the conditiong of the bearing. The bearing rollers looked a slightly dull, but there were no signs of excessive wear or scoring. There was no sign of lateral movement which says that the bearings are not excessively worn.
Unfortunately the better quality seal went in at an off angle when I tried to knock it in using a 46mm socket. There was no way to remove it without damaging it, so I ended up using the Britpart one after all.
Luckily the drive flage sealing surface was in good condition once I had polished it up with fine emery cloth, so I refitted it.
As a warning to anyone else attempting this job, the mud shield is push fitted onto the drive flange. I didn't have any tools with me to attempt to remove it without risk of bending it. The manual doesn't say anything about this as far as I could see.
Now I just have to re-connect the prop shaft and see if the leak has actually stopped.
