Nodge68
Well-Known Member
I'm doing mine next year, once I've got thoroughly fed up with the noise.
Don't waste your money on a full kit, as only the nose bearing fails. I'd just replace the failed bearing, and clean the rest of the diff to remove as much metal particulates as possible.
It's also worth using a Timken bearing, and not the original SKF bearing, as the Timken has a load rating about 50% higher than the original bearing.
You'll need the bearing, crush tube and nut, and make up or buy the spline key to lock the pinion while removing and refitting the nut.
Take the opportunity to clean out the Haldex at the same time.
No manual is available off the shelf, so you'll need to download the information off TOPIX.
Don't waste your money on a full kit, as only the nose bearing fails. I'd just replace the failed bearing, and clean the rest of the diff to remove as much metal particulates as possible.
It's also worth using a Timken bearing, and not the original SKF bearing, as the Timken has a load rating about 50% higher than the original bearing.
You'll need the bearing, crush tube and nut, and make up or buy the spline key to lock the pinion while removing and refitting the nut.
Take the opportunity to clean out the Haldex at the same time.
No manual is available off the shelf, so you'll need to download the information off TOPIX.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Not done a Freelander 2, but a diff is a diff, and I've rebuilt many over the years. I did the front diff on my Discovery 3, which is a similarly strange design, again only suffering from the failure of one bearing.
I'm still undecided as to whether to rebuild my own, or simply buy a strengthened diff from Bell Engineering.
Ok bought a disc with the complete manual on, and after watching and reading up finally decided to purchase the seals and bearing seperately as I want a Timken bearing. I'm only replacing the outer bearing as it is the smaller one and seem's to be the one that fails. The only stumbling block is the tool for the pinion nut, the socket isn't an issue the problem is the splined socket, has anyone managed to make one of these? I've been looking for an faulty Haldex to rob the shaft but can't find one. Worst case is I'll buy one and sell it when I've done. Parts for diff about £50, service kit for Haldex £50, pinion tool £125, still cheaper than £400 for diff and £50 for Haldex service kit.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
I've seen someone make the spline socket out of a large deep 1/2 drive socket, a 23 spline (possibly from a Ford Mondeo) clutch centre welded on.
Timken is the best brand to use, as they have a load rating of 50% higher than most other brands.
I'd not use the LR bearing pre-load myself, is it seems too high, which is possibly the reason for the bearing to fail in the first place.
The diff nose bearing isn't taking any real load, which is different to most other rear diff's, simply because the nose bearing on the FL2 isn't carrying the weight of the propshaft. So the only reason this bearing can fail is due to excessive pre-load in manufacturing.
Good luck with the rebuild, and don't forget to post it all here, to help out others in the future.
Timken is the best brand to use, as they have a load rating of 50% higher than most other brands.
I'd not use the LR bearing pre-load myself, is it seems too high, which is possibly the reason for the bearing to fail in the first place.
The diff nose bearing isn't taking any real load, which is different to most other rear diff's, simply because the nose bearing on the FL2 isn't carrying the weight of the propshaft. So the only reason this bearing can fail is due to excessive pre-load in manufacturing.
Good luck with the rebuild, and don't forget to post it all here, to help out others in the future.
raywin
Well-Known Member
Had mine done last year, the pre load is very high, it was almost impossible to turn the input when I brought it home, rang the garage who said dont worry its OK.
Run for just over a year now and still quite.
TBH if you are pulling it down I would do both bearings the oil in mine was twinkling with metal bits and that goes into both bearings.
The seal between the diff and haldex is critical, apparently couple of mm can make the difference.
People have made the diff tool from old parts and done it successfully.
Take a look here:
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic23661.html?highlight=rear+diff
Run for just over a year now and still quite.
TBH if you are pulling it down I would do both bearings the oil in mine was twinkling with metal bits and that goes into both bearings.
The seal between the diff and haldex is critical, apparently couple of mm can make the difference.
People have made the diff tool from old parts and done it successfully.
Take a look here:
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic23661.html?highlight=rear+diff
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
I would err on the side of caution were the pre-load is concerned. The standard bearing surface delamination is almost exclusively caused by too high a pre-load of the bearing.
When I set bearing pre-load, I do it by feel. I'll tighten the adjustment until I can feel zero play, the a fraction more. I then do what I call the "spin test". For this test, I spin the shaft, and see how long it takes to stop rotating. Basically I like it to spin to a stop in about 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn. If I'm happy that I've removed all free play, and there's an amount of drag on the bearings too, then I'm happy.
The factory pre-load figure seems excessive to me, which I believe it the cause of the bearing failing in the first place.
Maybe try a local clutch clinic to see if they have a correct sized old clutch plate you can have.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
what is the factory preload figure and how bigs the bearingI would err on the side of caution were the pre-load is concerned. The standard bearing surface delamination is almost exclusively caused by too high a pre-load of the bearing.
When I set bearing pre-load, I do it by feel. I'll tighten the adjustment until I can feel zero play, the a fraction more. I then do what I call the "spin test". For this test, I spin the shaft, and see how long it takes to stop rotating. Basically I like it to spin to a stop in about 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn. If I'm happy that I've removed all free play, and there's an amount of drag on the bearings too, then I'm happy.
The factory pre-load figure seems excessive to me, which I believe it the cause of the bearing failing in the first place.
Maybe try a local clutch clinic to see if they have a correct sized old clutch plate you can have.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
The bearing is 30206. 30x62x17.25.
The factory pre-load was supposed to be 1.1NM at 60 RPM, although I've read that many left the factory with considerably more pre-load than that.
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jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
id have thought that reasonable for a pinion bearing should be a reasonable resistance to turn by hand ie wont spin ,i wouldnt go much tighter than that
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
I agree those figures look reasonable.
I'm sure I've read somewhere that the torque was 4 or 5 times that much, but maybe I'm getting confused with the diffs that were build with incorrect pre-load torque.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
It's just a conventional drive flange. Just unbolt the bolts, and give it a gentle tap with a soft hammer, and if should pop away from the Haldex flange.
It wasn't quite that simple the joint was fully recessed into what looks like a damper on the input to the haldex. I found an unthreaded hole at the back of the flange put a short 8mm bolt into it and managed to get a descent hit on it with a punch. All out now ready for the rebuild tomorrow, took me about 3hrs with brews. Would of been alot quicker if it wasn't for the prop flange.
