Gun7354

Gun7354

Well-Known Member
Really quick question if i may? After replacing my rear diff oil seal (driving flange) i also replaced both UJs as one had some play. Anyway, all went well and everythings back on, but i've noticed after a test drive that even though both new UJs were free to move before i put them on the flange side of the UJ gets hot likewise the gearbox output side whereas the other side of the UJ stays cool.

Is this because the rear diff heats up and transfers it to the flange side of the UJ likewise the gearbox side?

Thanks

Rich
 
Yes checked this morning, jacked up a wheel and it rotated freely. Just need to double i've not done anything incorrect.

Rich
 
Was the drive flange/diff turning easily after the work was done? I know it's hard to tell as you'd prob need to pull the driveshafts to check.
 
Yes Rattlegun, i checked once i torqued it back up. Speaking to me local garage today they said the drive flange on the rear diff will get hot as it conducts heat from the actual diff. They also said that as long as the hardy spicers went in correct and all the needle bearings were located ok then it will eventually loosen slightly with wear. I jacked one rear wheel up today and it all turns ok so will monitor.
 
What diff is it Salisbury or Rover Just wondering as Salisbury has a crush tube in and over tightening will alter the preload on the bearings.
 
Diff is a Rover one. Both diff flange and gearbox seem to get hot as each other but i think the diff flange gets slightly hotter. I think this is because its straight from the diff. Both ends of the prop stay relatively cool. I think this is normal unless some one can get on their hands and knees and feel their own flange and prop :)
 
How many miles have you driven before the flanges get hot, and how hot?
If gear box end is getting hot I would investigate hand brake.
Personally never seen either of them hot.
The diff has cooling fins on casing and is a good air flow when moving , transfer box has a larger amount of oil which does warm up but the alloy casing is a good conductor of heat, you can buy a finned sump plate for transfer case to cool it better.
 
I check the temps (by touch) and the geabox and transmission get hot on a long run. Motorway seems to work them hardest as its long periods of fairly (relatively) high power. We are only doing 55 but the engine is close to peak torque. Diffs get hot, hottest is gearbox but it never cuases problems and I would stop after a 80 miles. We often do London / Bath or London / South Coast and I would say that's about the limit without a rest.
 
That’s very similar to my Series. I think it’s normal after a long run and it doesn’t get hot enough to melt the grease so I’m happy to test and adjust. Nothing is binding etc so it maybe the new UJs bedding in.

Many thanks for all your help and advice
 
I fitted a new Hardy Spicer rear prop 3 years back. The gearbox end UJ was much stiffer than the diff end and at the time I was a bit concerned about it. First few runs (less than 6 miles each) it got very warm, bordering hot.
After half a dozen shortish runs it stopped getting hot so I assumed the UJ loosened up. I geased it up about 300 miles later just in case the heat had caused the original grease to run out.
Just keep an eye on it, it's very easy to over think these things.
 
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