Madmustang
Well-Known Member
I think they are glued in so I would do a quick cut as bap said you proberly won't need a press but give it a go if you have a press and let us know what happens
The rubber centre section is not the problem. It's the steel sleeve that the rubber is inside of. The sleeve has to be pushed out of the ally bracket. I have given an old one some mighty hits with a 2 pound hammer and there is no movement.
Madmustang
Well-Known Member
One of those cheap 6 ton presses will do the job in that case
Removed the rubber inner using a hole cutter that's used for wood. Used angle grinder to cut steel sleeve, then hacksaw to join the angle grinder cuts, you know when your through as the sleeve springs a little, gripping the hacksaw blade. Gentle tapping and sleeve dropped out. If your going to do this, mark the sides of bracket, small and big, as brackets have to go back onto the diff the right way. Rule of thumb, the big side of the bush goes towards the diff on all three. Tomorrows job is to clean the bracket and fit the poly bush.
Madmustang
Well-Known Member
Same method I am using to get the races out of my IRD case
If you heat the centre shaft won't it expand and get tighter in the bracket? I noticed on the one I took out that it was well crimped by the ally bracket and it had fused to the ally as well.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
Sorry I didn't make it clear. I was talking about the centre shaft held by the rubber seen in the first pic in this thread. Heat it with a welder and it melts the rubber and falls out. This relieves the pressure on the rubber and makes it easier to bash the sleeve out. You've already cut it out so not an issue for you anymore.
This is a great way to get the metal shafts out of any bush.
Madmustang
Well-Known Member
Surprisingly no as it has the opposite effect on metal that is in the shape of a ring like bearing races as the weld cools it shrinks the ring so you can knock it out etc. I would use this method but have no welder. You have to be careful because as you dont want to weld the ring to whatever you are trying to remove it from lol
Got you mate, I didn't have a problem with the rubber as the hole cutter just about took the lot out.
Got to disagree on the metal in a ring quote. Years ago we used to get a thing called brake fade on HGVs, caused by excessive braking on long inclines. The heat generated by the pads caused the drums to expand away from the pads, sometimes causing complete brake failure.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
that happens, but if you do run a weld around the inside of a bearing race etc the weld will shrink the race a little enabling easy removal,weld contracts as it cools
Madmustang
Well-Known Member
It gives you the idea in this video
Last edited:
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
That kind of brake fade is more to do with the shoes not working at higher temperature. The drum will expand a bit with heat, but the airpack should have more than enough free movement to compensate.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
I've had the brakes fade (to nothing!) on my D1 going down a hill before - they're discs all round and in theory if everything expanded it would presumably lock them up rather than not work. They just literally went from working to nothing.That kind of brake fade is more to do with the shoes not working at higher temperature. The drum will expand a bit with heat, but the airpack should have more than enough free movement to compensate.
It was a really scarey moment having to coast the remainder of the hill onto the flat - luckily there wasn't much of it. I learnt the lesson of low gears going down hill even in an auto that day.
