front passenger, front driver, rear passenger, rear driver
that's on a right hand drive Freelander 1

I was told some time ago to use some of that white ptfe plumbers seal tape on the bleed nipples thread to stop air getting in. Air can sneak in when yer stop pushing the brake pedal via the thread. Only takes a small amount to make the brake pedal feel soft. Worked for me.

I got 1 of those 1 person brake bleed kits - with a bottle, tubes etc. That worked a treat as well.

I bled right front then left, then right rear then left, so out of order. Will go over again in proper sequence with PTFE tape on bleed nipples. Thanks for the info

in the old days 60's it used to be start at the furthest away first.

teddywood1 said:

in the old days 60's it used to be start at the furthest away first.

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The ABS pumps were a bit crude in those days

ABS in the early sixties ? you were luck if you could buy a car with a heater in it , the moment a second hand car came up for sale with a heater in everybody would look at it.i remember my dad brought a car which he did not like because it had a heater.

teddywood1 said:

in the old days 60's it used to be start at the furthest away first.

Click to expand...

The bleeding sequence is dictated by the ABS modulator fluid path. It has to be bleed in the correct way or old fluid could remain in there. This is way many modern cars aren't bleed in the old non ABS sequences.

GrumpyGel said:

The ABS pumps were a bit crude in those days

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Now you just need a Lynx (possibly a hawkeye can do it also) - and you can bleed the system single handed using the abs pump and the diagnostic unit. It has a built in program to do it. The wonders of modern technology

As for heaters in cars in the 60's - most had them (they were no particularly good ) but most had them.
I had a 1961 mini with a rather good heater. No blend flaps etc - simply a valve on the cylinder head operated by a cable - open valve a bit to allow water through the heater matrix...
Mind you, it also had a button on the floor to start it (the button and solenoid were one unit) - this was quite good actually.
The gear lever tried to break your wrists every time the engine moved as the top tie bar bushes lasted about 500 miles and then the engine could movea few inches forward and backwards - with the gear lever being an angled pudding stirrer about 2 feet long connected to the box it moved about 8 inches as the power was applied or released.. by power - I use the term losely...