hi

Rear body mounting on my 90 td5 has pretty much turned to powder as has a large part of the rear tub floor.

Have located parts at yrm so all good so far.

Floor looks pretty simple, just drill out old rivets and rivet new floor in. That is unless anyone else has other ideas?

Rear body mounting, I'm thinking remove bolts holding it to rear crossmember and lever body up, pull out old one and put in new one once I've drilled it to match up with old one. Though I am not sure how it is attached to the rest of the body. I hope it isn't welded as I don't have a tig welder.

Use Landrover everyday so don't want to start a job that turns into a nightmare and ends up taking all day.

Thing is I have seen loads of land rovers with this part corroded or repaired yet I cannot find any mention of it in my Haynes manual or any Land Rover workshop manuals I have found on the Internet. Does anyone have any exploded diagrams showing how the body of the Landrover is put together and then attached to the chassis?

Manual can be downloaded here.

Rave02.iso is the file you want to download.
http://www.green-oval.com/data/lr/

PLus the parts lists might help identify how things go together.

http://allbrit.de/NAV.cfm?PAGE=392025&SPRACHE=EN

Cheers

neilly said:

Manual can be downloaded here.

Rave02.iso is the file you want to download.
http://www.green-oval.com/data/lr/



Cheers

Click to expand...

Thanks. Only problem is that iPad won't let me download it

I also added a link for the allbrit website which has the parts lists and some drawings which may help.

Cheers

rave only works on windows machines.

[QUOTE="Farmer Brown, post: 3864455, member: 133742
Rear body mounting, I'm thinking remove bolts holding it to rear crossmember and lever body up, pull out old one and put in new one once I've drilled it to match up with old one. Though I am not sure how it is attached to the rest of the body. I hope it isn't welded as I don't have a tig welder.[/QUOTE]
Love terms like "remove bolts" - is NEVER that easy! But yes... 4 pairs of bolts holding body to the mounting...not sure how far forward you would need to undo mounting bolts to be able to "lever body up" but am damn sure the vertical bolts holding what is left of the original mounting plate to the chassis won't surrender easily! Just grind them off and be done. Clean up as best you can....and fit new mounting. Don't tighten any of the bolts until you have them all in place

Beneagles said:

[QUOTE="Farmer Brown, post: 3864455, member: 133742
Rear body mounting, I'm thinking remove bolts holding it to rear crossmember and lever body up, pull out old one and put in new one once I've drilled it to match up with old one. Though I am not sure how it is attached to the rest of the body. I hope it isn't welded as I don't have a tig welder.

Click to expand...

Love terms like "remove bolts" - is NEVER that easy! But yes... 4 pairs of bolts holding body to the mounting...not sure how far forward you would need to undo mounting bolts to be able to "lever body up" but am damn sure the vertical bolts holding what is left of the original mounting plate to the chassis won't surrender easily! Just grind them off and be done. Clean up as best you can....and fit new mounting. Don't tighten any of the bolts until you have them all in place [/QUOTE]


I've got a full farm workshop plus various goodies like a forklift so things like heating, grinding, welding (steel), levering are no bother.... So if cutting the heads off the old bolts is the way to go so be it. They are rusty as eff anyway.

Just about the only thing I don't have is a tig welder so was hoping it was all bolts and rivets and no nasty aluminium spot welds. Looks from diagrams that it is all rivets and bolts so fingers crossed won't be too bad.

neilly said:

I also added a link for the allbrit website which has the parts lists and some drawings which may help.

Cheers

Click to expand...

Thanks this is very useful.

Right so i decided to do the job this weekend.

Tub floor came out without too much bother (despite the rather random nature of the spot welding that was done when landrover was built), changed A Frame Ball Joint while i was at it (despite one of the bolts holding the fullcrum onto the A Frame stripping its threads because my Haynes manual had the wrong torque settings in it ) and then decided to do the rear body mounting.

Well this was fun, not. All 12 bolts holding the rear body mounting to the chassis cross member were seized solid and had to be heated before i could unscrew them. Looks like some kind of locking paste was used to fix them in. Then i discovered that the random spot welding extended to the rear body mounting as well and that it had also corroded so badly that it had decided to weld itself to the rear 3/4 panels above the crossmember. So i eventually got all the spot welds i could see drilled out and managed to separate the rear 3/4 panels from the rear body mounting with a wide flat chisel and some brute force and ignorance. To get to this...






So the question is how the heck to i get the rear body mounting out of there?

I have tried levering the back of the body up so i can pull it out but it seems to still be attached to the rest of the body. Noting the rather random nature of the welding i have encountered can anyone tell where else it is attached to the body? As i said in my first post this must be a really common repair as I have seen plenty landrovers with this bit corroded and a couple where it has been replaced. I asked if YRM had any instructions when I ordered it and was directed to the floor changing tutorial which doesn't cover the rear body mounting. I have noticed that there are body mounting bolts to the front of the tub which i may remove and then try to lift the back of the landrover body with the forklift but i don't want to have to go that far if i don't have to. I have looked at bodywork diagrams and while they show you bolts, they don't deal with the random spot welds i keep encountering.

As you will see the right rear 3/4 panel is in a bad way (left isn't too clever either), it just disintegrated when i was trying to separate it from the rear body mounting so I am thinking of changing it as well but I would quite like to get the mounting in there and I can always go back to the 3/4 panels later on as the landrover is a working one so it can't be off the road for too long at a time.

Undoing the two outrigger and centre chassis mounting brackets just forward of the rear wheels might be enough..... but as in #6 you might have to go further forward yet. Having assisted in several chassis swaps I have never yet known welds to be an issue.

Well we have made limited progress today. Have partly detached body from chassis and lifted back of it a couple of inches with forklift so that's something.

Have now discovered that rear body mounting is also attached on the top side with 2 screw rivets either side (complete and utter bugger to remove so I just ground them off and as I can't see how I can replace them so not going to bother) and again there are various random spot welds in there that have to be drilled out and are not going to be replaced as there are plenty rivets and bolts. Clearly when they built these things there was no such thing as a template and whoever built mine went absolutely mental with the spotwelder. What's the point in putting rivets and bolts in if you are just going weld everything anyway