s0785488

Member

• Jul 26, 2015

• #1

Folks, I'm rebuilding my 1979 S3 rear axle but the stub axles seem solidly attached to the axle housing...is this right? From reading other threads and looking at the parts catalog I believe the stub axles can be removed, but not on mine...... The front stub axles came off no bother. photos attached, Cheers.

 

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tottot

Well-Known Member

• Jul 26, 2015

• #2

Should come off with a good whack unless some genius has welded them on.Take it it was you who took the bolts out?

 

s0785488

Member

• Jul 27, 2015

• #3

OK maybe a big hammer is the solution. Ye I dismantled axle and removed the bolts, buts its solid. Just don't want to hit it until I know its meant to come a part....Cheers.

 

Blackburn

Well-Known Member

• Jul 27, 2015

• #4

Clean the paint off the edge so you can see the join.
What's the thickness of the flange at present?
A photo without the wrapping would also help.

 

s0785488

Member

• Jul 27, 2015

• #5

Ok I've done a bit of google searching . Can anyone confirm if the stub axles have a recess as shown in the pics attached? The recess overshots the axle casing flange? This would explain why I cant see an obvious edge to hit with the hammer. Cheers.

 

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mrchurchill109

Active Member

• Jul 27, 2015

• #6

If you have all the bolts out and there are no signs of welding I'd put a chuunk of PVC pipe over the stub axle and thump it with a mallet or some other heavy lump of metal. Likely the stub is securely dirt-fastened via its spigot to the axle and just needs shocking loose.

Don't pry at it - that's just going to mess up the seating. To quote the Lord High Executioner in the Mikado a short sharp shock should do it.

 

Blackburn

Well-Known Member

• Jul 28, 2015

• #7

Them pic's look right so you should be able to find the join on the rear of the flange.
Loosely fasten the hub back on and attach a wheel should give you enough leverage to seperate stub axle.

 

oxides

Well-Known Member

• Jul 28, 2015

• #8

If it's not leaking oil at the joint I'd put the bolts back and walk away......

 

tottot

Well-Known Member

• Jul 28, 2015

• #9

oxides said:

If it's not leaking oil at the joint I'd put the bolts back and walk away......

Click to expand...

Now that IS a good idea, nothing worth looking at in there anyway

 

P

perksta90

New Member

• Aug 2, 2015

• #10

Like most things it needs more fire and a bigger hammer!

 

J

John S

Well-Known Member

• Aug 3, 2015

• #11

As above why are you trying to take them out. If the half shafts are OK there's nothing to do. Have you considered putting the drive flange back on and fixing the half shaft? This would give you something to lever/ persuade. I think you're asking for more trouble if you do get them out. They're probably well slotted into the bevel ring and re-seating could be difficult. Cheers