SALandyman

New Member
Hey guys, and a special hello to mad hat man:) who will no doubt notice I have been quiet for a awhile and perhaps thought I had fallen of the face of uranus:rolleyes:, and am now posting threads in the correct forum (I Hope):eek:

Serioulsy joking aside, the breake lights on my s3 are killing me, they are on continuously, so i looked at the switch, its not there!!!!:mad: but on the servo there is a switch attatched to it (retro fitted non standard servo?) Anyways the original switch mounting is there so I hied of to ye olde spares shop and bought a switch, tapped the hole out to fit, and popped it in, sweet, then connected the wires, and the lights went........ON, when I press the pedal they go ........OFF:mad: What the fook have I missed in my short arsed sheep farming stupidity. Oh yeah and by the way I now have a brand "new" s2 88", hehehehe its for the missus, she loves it, but its got no floor no motor, and a dodgy gearbox.....****e thats a standard landy gearbox :rolleyes:, but some tosser has put S3 fenders on her, and now she has 4 headlights.....but thats for another day. HELP with the S3 IS IMPORTANT
 
What sort of switch did you get? Landy brake light switches are off when pressed in, on when pushed out, and on a S3 should be operated by the brake pedal. Mine's a non servo so the switch is inside the cab, above the pedal, the LR servo version switch should be accessed from inside the engine bay, somewhere behind the servo.
 
Yeah thats it exactly, on when out off when in, Now this should activate on the pedal right? So when the pedal is not being pressed, the switch is in right, when you press the pedal the button on the switch will release and lights on right? tell me this is right, because I have not put the switch in yet, but rather operated by hand before fitting. So if this is the case, then the switch will automatically leave the Brake lights on, and when I push it they go off right? damn i am dumb.
 
ignition on, and short the wires together and see if the lights come on or off - then check with a multimeter that the switch does actually open/close when the pedal is operated
 
Pedal up, brakes off, switch pushed in by pedal, brake lights off. Pedal down, brakes on, switch pops out, brake lights on. The tricky bit is to adjust the switch so it operates properly but doesn't bugger up the operating rod clearance on the master cylinder.
 

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