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I have a worklight I want to fit.

I have no reverse lights and am not fussed about wiring the worklight to work as a reverse light, I just want it for when I am loading up etc.

I have searched and read on here and Google generally but am a bit muddled with this electrickery ****.

Do I really need a relay?

Could I just run a fused length of appropriate wire via an appropriate switch straight from the battery to the light?

Was planning on just running a wire along the top of the chassis.

Seems like a relay is over complicating it, it's just a 55w 12v spot so about 5amps.

Will fuse with a 7.5a fuse near the battery and a switch rated for more than that.

Will that be okay? I don't want to release the blue smoke of death.

Cheers

Ed
 
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Basically no you don't need a relay, it only becomes a serious issue if running a bank of lights
 
wicked so straight from battery via a new fused bit of cable is ok, nice. Will get down the autofactor shop and get the bits.

All this 'purple wire at the back' stuff - on mine ALL the wires at the back are yellow lol
 
wicked so straight from battery via a new fused bit of cable is ok, nice. Will get down the autofactor shop and get the bits.

All this 'purple wire at the back' stuff - on mine ALL the wires at the back are yellow lol

Ya gotta luv the MOD :D
 
One more thing, should the fuse be higher rated than the switch or vice versa?

Would a 7.5a fuse and a 6a switch be okay?
 
Not sure tbh how much difference it'd make but I'd rather have a fuse blow under the bonnet than a switch melt in me dash so I'd fit a higher rated switch.
 
yeah it was an absolute ballache when one light started playing up. As i am sure there are on your motor, there are some really bizarre things on mine lol

I ended up rewiring all the rear lights cause it was easier than trying to work out what was supposed to go where. :eek:
 
You need to find out how many amps the light will draw, then figure out if you will be putting in a brighter bulb, then buy the bits.
I have mine on a relay, its triggered by the reverse light, its also on a switch.
I put the switch in the tub for safety, just in casa it got accidently switched on and its easy to get at when loading etc. Get a switch with a light, so you have a visual warning if you left it on .
 
Treat urself to a LED light rather than #### about with a 55w heater-!0w Led will be tons bright enough for what you want and will pull less than an amp
 
Okay cheers chaps, have brought the relevant bits.

Don't fancy an LED as it looks to 'new' if you know what I mean? I want something in keeping with the age and appearance of a ratty old mil vehicle :)
 
led would be better for your battery and light output..

fuse should be the lowest rating after the light, so that blows not the wire or switch.

surprised they do a lil 6a switch. even el cheapos seem to be 10amp
 
led would be better for your battery and light output..

fuse should be the lowest rating after the light, so that blows not the wire or switch.

surprised they do a lil 6a switch. even el cheapos seem to be 10amp

Yeah the one I picked up in the end was an illuminated rocker rated at 10a

Okay so LED would be better power wise, I already have the 55w 12v rubbolite worklight.

Hmmm does anyone know of an LED worklight which doesn't look to 'modern' if you see what I mean?
 
Rubolitre, now known as Truck Lite, do a range of LED lights. However almost all show the LEDs behind the lens so, if you want the looks, stick to what you've got.
You could put an LED bulb into your fitting but I've never been happy with the throw of light from them.
 
Rubolitre, now known as Truck Lite, do a range of LED lights. However almost all show the LEDs behind the lens so, if you want the looks, stick to what you've got.
You could put an LED bulb into your fitting but I've never been happy with the throw of light from them.


Cheers will browse their range, I just am not sure I like all the finned bits on the back etc
 

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