snifferg

snifferg

Member
Hi people, I would appreciate your advice on a rattle on my L Series.

At first I thought it was fanbelt so replaced this but no real improvement. Rattling sound at idle which goes away when engine revved, sounds to be coming from alternator, belts area. When engine turned off it sounds off with a rattle.
I'm thinking water pump or alternator?. Car drives fine, does not overheat and does not appear to be losing water.

Cheers in advance
 
exhaust heat shield, basically when the engines cold and not running get in there and start moving things and see what rattles, the exhaust heat shield rots at the bolts and start rattling but it could also be a loose bolt/nut or a hundred other things. the only thing with trying to diagnose a noise on a forum is that you can't actually hear it:doh:.
any chance you could tape the noise (do people still tape things?) and post it up, might be easier m8.
 
G88's idea of the heat shield sounds good,but why not take the belt off again and try all the pulley wheels and tensioner for rattles.I doubt its the bolts holding on the alternator but worth tightening.
 
Thanks for the ideas guys, great idea to record the noise- my mobile phone can do this so I'll get outside in the mornin when the rain has stopped and post it up ...

Cheers all ....
 
Watch the tensioner pulley and get someone to blip the throttle, you will see it literally bounce and the noise go away, fairly common on these.
Whip the belt off (only 15mm ring spanner on the tensioner to relieve tension) and have a good feel of the tensioner pulling and twisting gently to try and feel any play also making sure the bearings are nice and smooth.
 
I had a similar thing with my L series and I couldn't finger where it was. Found in the end when the timing belts were changed. The guide and tensioner for the timing belt both had shot bearings and had to be replaced. Thank God they didn't sieze!!

To check, take off the auxilary belt and start the engine. Is the noise still there? Don't run for too long, you've got no coolant pump.

Hope that helps.
 
Darmain said:
I had a similar thing with my L series and I couldn't finger where it was. Found in the end when the timing belts were changed. The guide and tensioner for the timing belt both had shot bearings and had to be replaced. Thank God they didn't sieze!!

To check, take off the auxilary belt and start the engine. Is the noise still there? Don't run for too long, you've got no coolant pump.

Hope that helps.
Click to expand...


me to had a rattle noise just the other month took aux belt of and rattle still there took bottom timing cover of only to be met with loads of ball bearing at the bottom :doh: what had happend was the guide bearing had blew up. i would really get this looked at asap as if it is that it could lead to timing belt coming off and big expense
 
Thanks for additional ideas people, much appreciated.

I took the undertray off today and had a look round with daughter dutifully turning engine off/on while I had my head underneath having a butchers (Freelander was up on ramps and chocked!!). I noticed as engine turned off engine seemed very 'mobile' - tensioners all seemed fine but I eventually found the lower tie rod bolt (drivers side) to be loose. Tightened and torqued to 80nm and hey presto engine now sounds sweet as nut and no unpleasant sounds whatsoever when ignition turned off.

I wanted to check IRD oil while I ws under there (suspect IRD is FUBAR'd, am in mondo mode at moment) but could not undo filler plug bolt, gave up in end as did not want to totally round off the bolt, any ideas to how to remove?
 
KEEP TRYING.I totally fugked mine tried everything completely rounded it.I ended up torching/heated a 17mm socket till it was red hot, got a 9" extension probly plus a 3",cant remember.Then I quickly lump hammered it on over the nut,that gave it a very good hold,and I was able to open it.I had to order a new one though.

To save the worry of rounding the nut you could heat an old 18mm socket,and hammer it on before it cools.
 
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