Lej · Jun 25, 2020

Hi all, hope all is well!

I am currently looking to respray my tired looking Landy and have decided to use Upol raptor respray. I'm going to use the pre-made tint packs.

I have attached a photo to this thread of my Landy, she has been butchered by the classical rattle can, rather annoying. The paint it's self does not peel off, it's quite thick and doesn't sand off very well (it clogs the sanding pad).

So here's the question; do I need to sand off all the black rattle can before I spray the Upol? I will be using etch primer on exposed metal then going at it with Raptor.

All advice would be very welcomed!

Lej · Jun 25, 2020

Here she is

kevstar · Jun 25, 2020

I would just give it a key then wipe with panel wipe then shoot the gear on.

Lej · Jun 25, 2020

kevstar said:
I would just give it a key then wipe with panel wipe then shoot the gear on.

Thanks for the response Kev,
I did think that would be the case, I'll just sand and fill anywhere that needs it and prime it with etch. Also, what should I use for the joins on the roof? I was thinking seam sealer, prime and spray?

v8250 · Jun 26, 2020

Lej, Raptor is not good at keying-in without a good tie-coat primer; use Upol tie-coat. It wouldn't take too long to D&A back your existing paint layers to base primer, then tie-coat, then Raptor. I've used Raptor many times including Raptor tintable the complete underside of some classic cars, but like all paints it needs proper prep'.

Importantly, what PPE are you planning to use? Raptor is a full blown 2k with a heavy dose of isocyanate. Isocyante is highly carcinogenic and at the very least once absorbed into the body through lungs, skin, eyes et al, causes high sensitivity to other paints and solvents. You need all over protection + proper fresh air feed + extraction to be safe. And you should be notifying your neighbours when you plan to use Raptor/2k product of this volume...airborne 2k/isocyante particulates being breathed in by family and neighbours is not a good thing.

discool · Jun 26, 2020

There’s a guy on utube that has done a disco 2 with the stuff, the prep is explained and shown the his video, it left a nice pattern finish.

Lej · Jun 27, 2020

v8250 said:
Lej, Raptor is not good at keying-in without a good tie-coat primer; use Upol tie-coat. It wouldn't take too long to D&A back your existing paint layers to base primer, then tie-coat, then Raptor. I've used Raptor many times including Raptor tintable the complete underside of some classic cars, but like all paints it needs proper prep'.

Importantly, what PPE are you planning to use? Raptor is a full blown 2k with a heavy dose of isocyanate. Isocyante is highly carcinogenic and at the very least once absorbed into the body through lungs, skin, eyes et al, causes high sensitivity to other paints and solvents. You need all over protection + proper fresh air feed + extraction to be safe. And you should be notifying your neighbours when you plan to use Raptor/2k product of this volume...airborne 2k/isocyante particulates being breathed in by family and neighbours is not a good thing.

Hi V8250,

The problem I'm having is the black rattle can paint, rather than sanding off into dust it just clogs up the sanding disc even on 80 Grit, even on a small cycle... I'm going to etch prime it regardless but removing the black paint it just ridiculous, I'd probably have more luck with 10l of thinners and 200 rags

. I will have a full faced air feed mask and a yard completely to myself (I'll do it in an evening and then park the landy inside of the workshop).

Is tie coat a sort of adhesion promoter?

romanrob · Jun 27, 2020

paint stripper?

Bobsticle · Jun 28, 2020

Lej said:
Hi V8250,

The problem I'm having is the black rattle can paint, rather than sanding off into dust it just clogs up the sanding disc even on 80 Grit, even on a small cycle... I'm going to etch prime it regardless but removing the black paint it just ridiculous, I'd probably have more luck with 10l of thinners and 200 rags . I will have a full faced air feed mask and a yard completely to myself (I'll do it in an evening and then park the landy inside of the workshop).

Is tie coat a sort of adhesion promoter?

Wet sanding is probably the answer but its clear you cant be bovered with prep. Lumps and bumps wont be hidden even with a textured finish.

Henry_b · Jun 28, 2020

You'd need to key the surface for the best chance of adhesion.

heavy grade wire wool works ok if you want to remove paint quickly.

v8250 · Jun 28, 2020

Lej said:
Hi V8250,

The problem I'm having is the black rattle can paint, rather than sanding off into dust it just clogs up the sanding disc even on 80 Grit, even on a small cycle... I'm going to etch prime it regardless but removing the black paint it just ridiculous, I'd probably have more luck with 10l of thinners and 200 rags . I will have a full faced air feed mask and a yard completely to myself (I'll do it in an evening and then park the landy inside of the workshop).

Is tie coat a sort of adhesion promoter?

Okay, sounds like a heavy acrylic paint has been used - but there's an easy answer, Nitromors. Buy 2x 5ltr cans and paint on the Nitromors, then cover painted area with newspaper/or clingfilm and leave overnight; it will remove the paint. Work methodically, one panel at a time and be careful of over spills. You simply scrape the paint away, then sand back the panels for a good finish. Finish with panel wipe to remove dust/particles prior to tie coat primer.

Tie coat is an adhesive primer that bonds between existing paint/primer layers and the new paint to be sprayed
https://www.u-pol.com/uk/en-uk/prod...4-1k-universal-adhesion-promoter#.XvhCLyhKhPY

+ looks like Upol have brought out a Raptor specific adhesion primer - though this may be same as Grip4 with Raptor branding and price
https://www.u-pol.com/uk/en-uk/prod...tor-accesorios/adhesion-promoter#.XvhAzyhKhPY

Once primer is thoroughly dry [if no heat assist leave for a good 3-4 days to solvent release/harden] paint Raptor.

Lej · Jul 13, 2020

Bobsticle said:
Wet sanding is probably the answer but its clear you cant be bovered with prep. Lumps and bumps wont be hidden even with a textured finish.

Not the case at all, I was simply asking for suggestions. I literally couldn't sand it off with 80 grit paper.

Lej · Jul 13, 2020

v8250 said:
Okay, sounds like a heavy acrylic paint has been used - but there's an easy answer, Nitromors. Buy 2x 5ltr cans and paint on the Nitromors, then cover painted area with newspaper/or clingfilm and leave overnight; it will remove the paint. Work methodically, one panel at a time and be careful of over spills. You simply scrape the paint away, then sand back the panels for a good finish. Finish with panel wipe to remove dust/particles prior to tie coat primer.

Tie coat is an adhesive primer that bonds between existing paint/primer layers and the new paint to be sprayed
https://www.u-pol.com/uk/en-uk/prod...4-1k-universal-adhesion-promoter#.XvhCLyhKhPY

+ looks like Upol have brought out a Raptor specific adhesion primer - though this may be same as Grip4 with Raptor branding and price
https://www.u-pol.com/uk/en-uk/prod...tor-accesorios/adhesion-promoter#.XvhAzyhKhPY

Once primer is thoroughly dry [if no heat assist leave for a good 3-4 days to solvent release/harden] paint Raptor.

Hi V8250,

Thank you very much for your help, I ended up using a paint stripper to remove the paint, as it happens I only had to wipe over once and the sander was then able to do the rest without clogging up. I then sanded, filled bashed out a load of dents followed by panel wiping the whole truck and etch priming bare steel and aluminium and then applied Upol's adhesion primer. I've done the roof and accessories in black and the body in orange.

The paint still feels a bit tacky after 48 hours, is that normal? (I've checked and double checked the mixing ratios and they're accurate)

v8250 · Jul 13, 2020

Hi Lej, that looks...very orange! Raptor does take a while to thoroughly dry especially when not under heat lamps. You could accelerate if you have some form of mid temp heater/s to bake off. Don't be tempted to rush the drying process and/or rebuild back up too soon as the components will dig into the soft paint; it's really worth letting paints harden properly. Most paints aren't fully hard for a good 30 days.

If it helps, I use 2x Stanley electric garage heaters and switch them on mid setting for ~24hrs - I find this does the job. The heaters can be bought from Screwfix, or any other dry space heater will do the job [must not use gas heaters].

Lej · Jul 13, 2020

Hah, yes... A bold choice in colour I think, I'm still adjusting to it. I think once the emblems and other accessories are on I should be swayed. I have yet to put anything back on her, I will wait until the paint is rock solid first. It's quite rubbery, more so than what the black was but I guess I've applied thicker coats. She's stored in a workshop overnight and out in the sun during the day.

Thanks again for your help!

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