West Slope Rover said:
Man, yer charmed! Ya jumped in here at the the Looney Zone and ya got yerself help instantly with no **** taking.

I hope other noobs don't expect the same. We got carried away this time.
Click to expand...

Ha! And here was me thinking you were like this all the time!

Seriously though...as I stand here in the dark, covered in coolant, transmission fluid an other assorted grime, I'm very thankful.

Now...having topped everything up and letting it reach operating temp with all caps off, I've switched it back off, and about 85% of the radiator is stone cold!

Have I found my problem...an should I bother with the flush now or just get a new rad?
 
That could be because of a couple of reasons, either another air blockage of your fluid isn't circulating due to bad water pump (or totally blocked rad). Any signs of bad pump like noise or fan play or drips from bottom of water pump?
 
West Slope Rover said:
That could be because of a couple of reasons, either another air blockage of your fluid isn't circulating due to bad water pump (or totally blocked rad). Any signs of bad pump like noise or fan play or drips from bottom of water pump?
Click to expand...

No other apparent issues. The radiators blow lukewarm, so if the radiator was very blocked would you expect this to be the case?
 
VogueLSE4.2 said:
As for the red fluid leak...

I removed the front grill, and there's a transmission cooler running along the car in front of the air-con rad. It's leaking at quite a rate from the right hand side - appears to have rusted through. Is there a known fix/replacement for this?

Cheers for the help folks,

Brian.
Click to expand...

if you follow the hard likes from the oil cooler they are connected to rubber hoses. disconnect and get a length of copper pipe, 8mm i think from memory, and run a loop through the hoses, longer the better, and then cable tie to front of old cooler. check and top up gearbox and will be ok to use till you source oil cooler
 
I taint a big brain about these cars like some here. I'm hoping that one shows up in a bit. But I think that I would try another air burp on the heater pipe and then take it for a drive close to home keeping any eye on the temp gauge. Have fluids for replacement on hand to get home. Sometimes just idling doesn't get the rpms up enough to get things circulating. Or bring the standing rev's up to 1800-2000 for a bit and see what happens.
 
3.5 efi said:
if you follow the hard likes from the oil cooler they are connected to rubber hoses. disconnect and get a length of copper pipe, 8mm i think from memory, and run a loop through the hoses, longer the better, and then cable tie to front of old cooler. check and top up gearbox and will be ok to use till you source oil cooler
Click to expand...


Thanks for this - I'll do this until I can get hold of a replacement.

Tried chemical metal as a bodge...didn't work ;-).
 
West Slope Rover said:
I taint a big brain about these cars like some here. I'm hoping that one shows up in a bit. But I think that I would try another air burp on the heater pipe and then take it for a drive close to home keeping any eye on the temp gauge. Have fluids for replacement on hand to get home. Sometimes just idling doesn't get the rpms up enough to get things circulating. Or bring the standing rev's up to 1800-2000 for a bit and see what happens.
Click to expand...


Took it for a run, temp was ok until I put my foot down - instantly the gauge started heading for the red. Made it home and it poured coolant out the expansion tank. Radiator hot at the top, cold at the bottom.

Carrying out a radiator flush just now (very rock 'n' roll for a Saturday night - I can see this car interfering with my social life!).

Is it ok to empty the system using the radiator bottom hose, as I can't see any other way to empty the system?

If the flush doesn't work, I'll fit a new radiator and cross my fingers. How much are new rads and is there a preferred supplier?

Cheers,

Brian.
 
West Slope Rover said:
I taint a big brain about these cars like some here. I'm hoping that one shows up in a bit. But I think that I would try another air burp on the heater pipe and then take it for a drive close to home keeping any eye on the temp gauge. Have fluids for replacement on hand to get home. Sometimes just idling doesn't get the rpms up enough to get things circulating. Or bring the standing rev's up to 1800-2000 for a bit and see what happens.
Click to expand...


Took it for a run, temp was ok until I put my foot down - instantly the gauge started heading for the red. Made it home and it poured coolant out the expansion tank. Radiator hot at the top, cold at the bottom.

Carrying out a radiator flush just now (very rock 'n' roll for a Saturday night - I can see this car interfering with my social life!).

Is it ok to empty the system using the radiator bottom hose, as I can't see any other way to empty the system?

If the flush doesn't work, I'll fit a new radiator and cross my fingers. How much are new rads and is there a preferred supplier?

Cheers,

Brian.
 
re the heater , if the head gaskets gone then it gets filled with combustion gasses and wont work or works poorly.

it happened to me, then it got so bad it pressurised the cooling system and burst the top hose then i fixed that and it burst the matrix , it didnt help that the cap wasnt releasing any pressure mind lol.

glad I got the ball rolling with some actual help for ya :p

if your rads not hot right accross I would change it and go from there. Like I said its a process of elimination starting with the cheapest bits first. unfortunatly with 3.9's and bigger it normally ends with a big bill tears and a hgf or cracked block/slipped liner :(
 
Are the 3.9 and 4.2 rads the same? If so I have a good one here.I brought it new and ran it for about 10 months.
 
just think k-man if you had bought the car you could be having this fun again and fitting your rad yourself :p

OP do the rad and water pump, dont buy cheap **** from paddocks- give LR direct an email or call. Dont buy britpart parts, They may seem cheap but they are normally ****e and you end up having to buy another to eliminate the problem anyway.

You may as well buy a stat while your there as your only adding a fiver to the bill. get a waxstat one. you then have tried all options once its been bled up properly and its time for head gaskets/skim and or new liners block.

how much did you pay for the car if you dont mind me asking?
 
Is the thermostat housing attached to the front of the block, connected to the top radiator hose, held on by two bolts, and has a sensor connected to it? If so...someone's removed the thermostat as there was nothing inside.
 
VogueLSE4.2 said:
Is the thermostat housing attached to the front of the block, connected to the top radiator hose, held on by two bolts, and has a sensor connected to it? If so...someone's removed the thermostat as there was nothing inside.
Click to expand...
yes and oh dear, that what people do to try and get a little more life out of them when the headgaskets gone/slipped liner cracked block :eek:

try the rad first and the pump as you may get lucky but it doesnt look good
 
If you don't want to spend money on speculation, you could test your coolant for gasses. A kit costs around $50.00 here. Pretty simple.
 
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