VERBUTA CRISTIAN
Member
Thanks. I will go for eos test.
gold rover
Well-Known Member
Good luck with your eos test
The EAS has two failure modes, soft and hard....
A soft fault is one where the system can maintain a 'known' ride height and as such doesn't pose a risk to the vehicle or occupants - this is shown when the hold light is on the selector switch and EAS Inactive message on dash.
A hard fault is one where the system cannot determine what 'state' the EAS is in, or what position the vehicle is at, so it shuts the system down and halts all height changes....this is shown by all the lights being out on the height selector.
The first option is to get it on diagnostics and see why the system is in a fault condition.
Also - and this is note to many others too: The Lock to Lock reset DOES NOT reset the EAS system, it resets the Steering Angle Sensor which is used by the vehicle systems to determine steering input. The DSC/ABS/EAS systems all use this input in determining the vehicles current steering input along with road speed (ABS), vehicle 'lean' and suspension position (EAS) and the Yaw sensor so the DSC can adjust things to maintain vehicle control as best as possible....the loss of one of these systems will cause the others to also show a fault.......hence why when reconnecting the battery you have to reset the SAS and then the other systems will then clear and work normally. I repeat the lock to lock DOES NOT clear any EAS faults.
A soft fault is one where the system can maintain a 'known' ride height and as such doesn't pose a risk to the vehicle or occupants - this is shown when the hold light is on the selector switch and EAS Inactive message on dash.
A hard fault is one where the system cannot determine what 'state' the EAS is in, or what position the vehicle is at, so it shuts the system down and halts all height changes....this is shown by all the lights being out on the height selector.
The first option is to get it on diagnostics and see why the system is in a fault condition.
Also - and this is note to many others too: The Lock to Lock reset DOES NOT reset the EAS system, it resets the Steering Angle Sensor which is used by the vehicle systems to determine steering input. The DSC/ABS/EAS systems all use this input in determining the vehicles current steering input along with road speed (ABS), vehicle 'lean' and suspension position (EAS) and the Yaw sensor so the DSC can adjust things to maintain vehicle control as best as possible....the loss of one of these systems will cause the others to also show a fault.......hence why when reconnecting the battery you have to reset the SAS and then the other systems will then clear and work normally. I repeat the lock to lock DOES NOT clear any EAS faults.
VERBUTA CRISTIAN
Member
Thanks, this helps a lot.
I will let you know what i get today after diagnoses.
Much appreciated.
I will let you know what i get today after diagnoses.
Much appreciated.
VERBUTA CRISTIAN
Member
I didn't get to the diagnoses yet.
Just taken the RR for little drive and feels slowest on power then was before.
Is this a connection with suspension inactive.
It's ok driving it for about 10 miles?
Just taken the RR for little drive and feels slowest on power then was before.
Is this a connection with suspension inactive.
It's ok driving it for about 10 miles?
VERBUTA CRISTIAN
Member
?CUE cheap ODB2 reader and "No Faults" ?
......wait for it.......
Needs proper RR specific diagnostics kit, and not the cheap OBD2 reader type is all.
VERBUTA CRISTIAN
Member
Oh yes. Thanks.
VERBUTA CRISTIAN
Member
VERBUTA CRISTIAN
Member
He delete the errors but still stay as "air suspension inactive"
VERBUTA CRISTIAN
Member
Was using a Delphi... but he doesn't seems to be good at all.
And really dont want to go in to the dealer.
Attachments
VERBUTA CRISTIAN
Member
VERBUTA CRISTIAN
Member
I can see now is got a star next to Land Rover name, as far as I now it means not verry complex for make and model.
VERBUTA CRISTIAN
Member
I'm in Bristol.
I don't mind driving for 40-50 miles if someone can help.
Appreciate you help.
I don't mind driving for 40-50 miles if someone can help.
Appreciate you help.
VERBUTA CRISTIAN
Member
Hi.
Thank you all for your help.
Manage to get my RR sorted with proper diagnostic kit.
Issue?
☆ because i switch of the ignition before suspension wasn't finishing rising up, sistem get confuse and moved in to safe mode.
Easily fix with reset.
Again, thank you all for your help.
Thank you all for your help.
Manage to get my RR sorted with proper diagnostic kit.
Issue?
☆ because i switch of the ignition before suspension wasn't finishing rising up, sistem get confuse and moved in to safe mode.
Easily fix with reset.
Again, thank you all for your help.
No Probs, glad you got it sorted and came back to tell us what the fix was (helps others out when searching for their issues)....
This is a prime example of the need for decent, LR specific, diagnostic devices - other 'generic' or 'multi-vehicle' fault readers just don't cut the mustard.
Well done chap.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Prime example of poor design if you can confuse the electronics by switching off the ignition at the wrong moment.
